Mobile 1

[tc86gn]

I would not necessarily say that the film strength would be weaker,but on every start up you can be sure that it will take the oil a little longer to get to all the critical points it needs to get to the thicker it is. this is where a lot of engine wear occurs. consider this.... the engine demands a CONSTANT supply of FRESH oil to minimize wear, FLUSH bearing surfaces clean,and REMOVE THE LOCALIZED HEAT that developes between moving parts. The thicker the oil, the slower the process.
As far as additives are concerned it depends on what it says it does..
1 viscosity improverrevents oil from becoming too thin.
2 Pour-point depressant: Prevents oil from getting too thick at low temperatures.
3 Inhibitors: Prevent corrosion and rust, oxidation, and foaming
4 Detergents: Prevent particals in the system from clotting together and forming clumps which cause clogging of oil passages and bearings.
I don't use any as Mobil 1 pretty much has everything you need already but that is your personal preference. Hope this helps.

 

[Chris McDade]

Does Mobil 1 make a strait 30w?

Is it safe to say that 10w-30 and strait 30w are then same except in cold weather the 10w-30 would break down to 10w???


Thanks

 

[Two Lane]

I use 0-30W Mobil exclusively with only positive results in a variety of vehicles...all extreme service, from chilly to balmy climes.

Most engine wear occurs at start-up. O-30W gets the oil throughout all the oiling passageways most easily when the motor starts, then also protects as a 30W
as the engine warms to operating temperature.

But hey, "you pays your money, you takes your choice, right?".

HTH

 

[Chris McDade]

Two Lane
That makes sense to me. Anyone else want to put there 2 cent in?

 

[strikeeagle]

I'm more concerned with detonation pounding the oil out of the bearings. The heavier the oil, the better. No "salad oil" for me.

 

[Two Lane]

I would speculate, and hope, that any detonation occurs after warm-up, no matter what oil is used.

Again, have used Mobil 1 since mid-80's...Used 5-30W in all vehicles until I found 0-30W in 1997. It's in my GN, TR, BB Chevy, 270K Camry, Miata, 220K Chevy 6.5 Turbo Diesel, Kubota backhoe, & the John Deere diesel tractor.

HTH

 

[ACME RACING]

Phosphorus

Oil companies had to lessen the percent of Phosphorus additive since it wasn't compatible with the Cadillac Converts Phosphorus is an anti-wear additive. All API certified oils had to meet this standard back in 95' i think...not just Mobil 1....... .....alan


http://www.repairfaq.org/filipg/AUTO/F_oil_facts.html#OILFACTS_002


http://www.waynesgarage.com/docs/synthetic_oils.htm



here's some oil info...


alan

 

[TURBOV6]

Originally posted by Steve Wood
sounds like he has an Amsoil distributorship to me...I would not pay much attention to it.

Yup! Almost all of the local parts store sell Amsoil, the profit margin is higher so the will push the Amsoil to make more $$$. But been hearing good stuff about their products.

 

[tc86gn]

having said too much already, In short....as long as it is a whatever-30 its good to go. anyone that thinks that 5w-30 or 0w-30 is better to use is not exactly wrong or right. 5w-30 and 0w30 do not flow any better than 10w-30 unless you are at subzero temperatures. the only advantage is purely phsycological.

 

[V6UnderPressure]

Pennzoil with Pennzane synthetic. I worked for Castrol and through talks with the corporate people showed that they still cannot beat Pennzoil with Pennzane. The people at Castrol are a little disappointed and had told me flat out that nothing beats it yet all around.

Scott

 

[Silver 6]

I run 20W50 in the summer.

Since my motor has 203K on it, I know things have worn a bit and I like the extra pressure from the heavier weight oil.

The point has been presented that the increase in oil pressure comes from increased pumping requirements and from drag in the flow through the system. I believe this was said to acutally lead to less oil passing through and this being a bad thing.

I would agree to less oil passing through. Oil pressure goes down in relation to the number and size of the leaks in the system. Every side to a bearing, lifter, thrust face, push-rod, etc. is a leak. Count them up. There is a LOT! As these wear, the size of the leaks get larger and the pressure goes down. At idle in an older motor the oil pump can't keep up with the leaks. A thicker base oil passes through these leaks a bit more slowly and the pressure stays up.

And it gives my bearings a bit more cushion. I can live with that.

 

[tc86gn]

that is a totally different situation.

 

[S2V6RACER]

The key issues are the main/rod clearances.

IMHO .002 and over should use a 50 weight oil.

We can get into cam bearing and lifter bore clearances also, It is really a "stack" up of all of them.

I tried 10w30 in the race motor, and had 10psi HOT pressure at 750RPM. I didn't care for that much. I put in 15w50 and have 19psi HOT(after 10.30 pass) with 70psi at WOT. All is fine so far. I guess it's really a issue of what works for us. As long as we aren't blowing them up, we're doing the right things.

I think the tag above our visors call for SE/SF grade oils, we're WAY beyond that now. Even the worst dinosaur oils are better than that.

 

[Chris Taylor]

Ted I run clearances over .002 and use 40 weight oil. My concrens with 50 weight oil was the oil feed line to the turbo. I have always wondered if the 50 weight oil would flow well to the turbo. I do agree that if you run a wider clearance you may need to run a heaver oil. IMO .0018-.002 is tight on a high boost motor regardless of RPM's. I run .0025-.003 on rods and mains due the extreme conditions under boost. I have had good success with my motors and long life.

 

[The Radius Kid]

Originally posted by tc86gn
that is a totally different situation.

Interesting discussion this.David's right.The pressure is a function of resistance to flow.If it takes a heavier oil to get the pressure up to respectable limits,then use it.It will take pretty much "X" amount of hp to produce "Y" amount of pressure in a lube system,regardless of whether you doing it in a lose engine or a tight one.

 

[tc86gn]

read the whole post before quoting people... you guys are too high-tech for me. just for the record this started out talking about a properly running motor with good clearances. lets not mix apples and oranges... guess i have been wasting my time in the maintenance field for 20 years and haven't learned anything. I'll just keep my thoughts to myself from now on.

 

[Silver 6]

tc86gn

This is a discussion board and this is what we do here. These cars are as individual as we are and there is no one answer for anything here. We tend to disagree. It normally isn't personal and I didn't see it being personal here. I was burned out and stayed off the board for a while. You will be welcomed when you're ready to come back and post.

 

[tc86gn]

Sorry.. My bad.