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I'm going to stick with a quadrajet. I am more comfortable with fiddling with one rather than a holley. Not to mention I'm to cheap to spend money on a carb when I have a bunch floating around.

I re read the sticky and Freddie's write up as well and it makes sense to me now. It seems easy enough to mod one that I already have. As for seriousness, I'm not looking for a ten second car. I just want it to perform decently and as reliably as possible. I'm more of a red light guy rather than a quarter mile guy. I realize the short comings of a hot air car and I want to make it a better version of what buick sold from the show room while maintaining the originality of the car. I am one of those guys that won't remove my ac to gain horsepower I like my creature comforts. If I wanted to go fast I would pick up a sfi motor or throw a supercharger on my 6.2 sierra denali.

So what exactly do I need to salvage from the stock carb. Does anyone have a jet, rod, and hanger combo that works well on a stock motor.

The car runs like garbage right now so I imagine once it is running proper my sights might be set a little higher but for now I will be realistic and aim for a smooth running cruiser.

On the upside it's fall and winter could set in at any moment so I have a solid 6 months to gather parts and save up for the j amd s box before I would want it on the road again.

Thanks for all the input. I apologize if I am getting annoying, I really appreciate all the help form the community. Without your guys guidance I would have never gotten the car remotely close to being road worthy.
 
If it's running poorly, the carb isn't likley the problem. I can be one of the many sensors for the ECM. Do you plan to keep the ECM? If so, do you have a scan tool? Something like an OTC Monitor.
 
factory system is getting pitched. The timing control is wonky. It pulls timing at idle and now it is fried. When I plug my dizzie in the car stalls and won't start with it plugged. I have given up on the factory system. I will use a normal carb and the j and s box and remove the rest of the factory system. The ccc system is foreign to us up here, we only had it on Cadillac and the odd car prior to 88 then everything switched to fuel injection so parts are impossible to find in wreckers. I don't like the idea of an archaic ecm controlling all of the a/f and timing control. The old school system is less confusing to me.
 
I get what you are saying. All the ECM stuff should be on the passenger side harness. See if you can remove the entire harness intact instead of cutting the wires.

My understanding is the 350C transmission can simply be unplugged. You loose the Torque Converter Clutch, but it won't become damaged like 200-4R.

The CCC system is pretty much foreign to everyone. ;)
 
I'm guessing the fender has to come out to remove the harness. I didmt realize the 200r4 also had computer controlled lock up. I figured they went away from locking converters when they had the od. I wonder how they did itup here I. The 200r4 equipped g body cars seeing that there was no ecm in our cars. Did the larger cars ever come with a 200r4? I have a 700r4 from a 83 Parisienne that I may bolt in......I don't want this comment to spark the flame to a heated topic. I would rather a 200 but I might have to use what I got (it's currently in my 80 limited so I have a shortened shaft and modded crossmember).
 
nuthing wrong with the 350C... in fact you can add a toggle switch and use the torque converter to split your gears. turn a 3 speed into a 6. The 700R4 is what i run, I love that deep first gear and the 1-2 split feels very turbo friendly. The 200R4 doesnt have to have an ECM to operate, but it will need to be set-up like the 700R4 with a change in some solenoids internally. The most important piece of either of these transmissions is correct throttle linkage geometry. You will need to find a quad that either ran a 700 or a 200.

the down side of the 700 will be that it requires a bell housing adapter and a trans brake is non exsistant.
 
I have heard the 1-2 shift is a long ways apart. Does it hurt your performance? I don't mind the 350 at all just want the extra gear to run a lower rear ratio. It works perfectly cause I was going rob the carb off of that car any how to boost refrence. No trans break is ok by me. This car will probably never see a track.
 
it is very far apart... but in my situation its very helpful. as that 1-2 shift loads the turbo real hard when the change happens. In my opinion.... this is what we want for the carb turbo It keeps it in the sweet spot, low RPM boost.
 
You should have a 3.08 gear. Buick also put a 3.23 behind the 4.1 V6 with 350C trans. When the OD came out with the 200-4R, they went to 3.42 and even 3.73 (Olds and Chevy)
 
I've got 3.08 posi. The lower gear would be nice for a quicker spool. The 700 is currently in my 80 with 2.55 rear or something and that sucker gets moving in 4th. The speedo was wound pretty tight. Haha
 
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