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More than 2 alky nozzles

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Cme2fly

WH1 driver
Joined
Nov 2, 2003
Messages
758
Anyone here (Julio) run more than two nozzles with there PAC system? I am helping my friend with his car and his is has the pump gain all the way up and we are seeing 12.2 A/f at the top of third. The car pull strong but a little to lean for my taste..BTW car is a high 9 ride..TIA
 
gain is all the way up..both on the controller and the box. I have the turn on set at 4 psi, should I turn the alky on a few psi later than my 4 psi setting?
 
gain is all the way up..both on the controller and the box. I have the turn on set at 4 psi, should I turn the alky on a few psi later than my 4 psi setting?

Im pretty sure turning it on later will give you negative results.... when you do that you are essentially sliding the voltage curve for the pump. Say you had the gain set at half way, and turn on is set to 10psi. At 20psi, you will get a certain flow rate. Now set the turn on to 5psi, at at 15psi you will get the same flow rate you did at 20psi for the previous setting.... see what im getting at?
 
Sounds like your friend needs a better fuel system. The alky is to suppress knock not make up for a bad fuel pump/system.

If the knobs are turned up and he gets knock.. then he needs more alky. Also I dont know how old the system is, if the pump is making proper pressure, etc..

The kit/pump if working correctly will easily support 1200 HP. A 9 sec Buick is 700 territory.

Anything further.. pickup the phone and call. I dont like doing tech on 9 second cars through message boards :)
 
Your absolutely right about the fuel system. Just added a 72bb and the thing likes to eat..before the 72bb had a 45a and ran a 6.29 @ 109 in the eighth. The car is noticably faster...no knock just lean A/f. Some of us hard heads like to go fast with small injectors and a single pump.:eek:
 
Im pretty sure turning it on later will give you negative results.... when you do that you are essentially sliding the voltage curve for the pump. Say you had the gain set at half way, and turn on is set to 10psi. At 20psi, you will get a certain flow rate. Now set the turn on to 5psi, at at 15psi you will get the same flow rate you did at 20psi for the previous setting.... see what im getting at?


I see what your saying but, I am not new to tuning cars with a PAC system. I have probably installed and tune about 6 systems in regals over the past few years. Just looking for some real world feedback to compare notes. Been telling the guy to upgrade to some 95's but I guess he will find out the hard way. :)
 
I see what your saying but, I am not new to tuning cars with a PAC system. I have probably installed and tune about 6 systems in regals over the past few years. Just looking for some real world feedback to compare notes. Been telling the guy to upgrade to some 95's but I guess he will find out the hard way. :)

Just want to throw something out there.....

Right now im running about 85% duty cycle on my 55lb injectors with a t63-e at 30psi using a dual nozzle alky kit (alky knob halfway), and my setup should be good for a 10.6-10.8 pass (havent run it at the track with alky yet.... maybe this weekend ;)).

2 local guys are running 72lb injectors with dual nozzle alky and 70BB's and are running low 10's (soon high 9's) and tell me they have some buffer room to work with.

With more air, demands for fuel are increased. The more air you push in, the more fuel you burn! If your buddy doesnt have atleast 72lb injectors, i would suggest that be the first thing he does.
 
My 75's at 132 mph where at 60%DC

Twin nozzle setup.

HTH
 
Your absolutely right about the fuel system. Just added a 72bb and the thing likes to eat..before the 72bb had a 45a and ran a 6.29 @ 109 in the eighth. The car is noticably faster...no knock just lean A/f. Some of us hard heads like to go fast with small injectors and a single pump.:eek:

No problem.. just make sure the single is healthy.. as well as all the supporting parts.. like relays, filters, regulators, etc.. I chased a fuel system issue couple years ago.. cost me a HG in the process.. ended up being a bad 30a relay used in the hot-wire kit.. would drop voltage and lean the car out.

Every two seasons I change pumps.. in the scheme of things, its an in-expensive item that when goes bad leads to $1,000's of headaches
 
I use to change my pump yearly just to be sure everything is on the up and up. Now, I just just do one bi-annually. The car has cometics so I don't think he will be blowning head gaskets anytime soon, more like a cracked piston or a window in the block.:) Went out last night at 27# A/f were at 11.3 top of third and the car seems to pull pretty good. The guy we ran in a slobra didn't even know what hit him.:biggrin:
 
dual nozzle kit here and at about 28psi and trapping almost 138 im at about 77% DC...
 
reds double pumper in the tank, stock lines and rails, 72's, and an old billet AFPR set to about 43psi...A/F on my runs were about 10.9-11.0
 
Chris,
It may be a good thing to change the alky pump and get the updates done on the kit. There a change in Dec'05 that affected the way the pumps were MFG'd and changes to the controller. Both of these will be beneficial. I dont want to get into specifics on-line. call me when you can and i'll explain.

The pump is a wear item. Options are having us inspect it or replace it. My own belief, if you can get 2-3 years of service..it should be replaced. Just like the Walbro in-tank pump.

HTH
 
I'm a little late to this thread. However, fuel delivery is everything. Even the slightest dip will cause problems. From experience I've found that running a fuel pressure transducer to the data logging system is a valuable asset. Too many times I've been burned with a drooping fuel delivey set up.

And, it isn't always the fault of the pump.

RemoveBeforeFlight
 
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