Motive Power Bleeder

[BuickMike231]

Hey guys, I just finished putting on new rotors, calipers, pads, and stainless brake lines up front on the GN and need to bleed the system (it's a Powermaster). I bought one of the Motive Power Bleeders with the rectangular adapter for GM cars. Do any of you have any experience using one of these on a GN? I can't get the adapter to seal on top of the reservoir and hold any pressure. The side of the reservoir actually bows out a bit once I get around 10 psi on the bleeder and it will build pressure but not hold. The notes that came with it state to dry test it and build 10 psi and make sure it stays there for at least 30-40 seconds. The second I stop pumping it it starts dropping. My question is have any of you had this problem and what did you do to get the adapter to seal or am I just going to have to go back to the two man process? Thanks in advance!

 

[pacecarta]

get the reverse power bleeder that forces the fluid up to the master from the wheel cylinders and caliper

 

[1quick6]

Agreed. The Phoenix reverse bleeders are great. You could also get Russell speed bleeder screws. That also makes it a one man job for cheap. The check valve in the bleeder lets you pump repeatedly without the old two man open and close routine. The part numbers are in my hydroboost link in my sig.

 

[BuickMike231]

Thanks for the replies guys! I found an example an Motive's site where a guy with an old Vette rigged up the adapter with a big c clamp. I will give that a shot and if it is a no go I will check into your suggestions. I will report back either way! Thanks.

 

[zeus87gn]

If it helps, I have a written procedure for using a hand vacuum pump to bleed brakes and the powermaster itself.
Link in my sig.
Don't forget to adjust those rear drums!

 

[BuickMike231]

Hey guys, just wanted to let you all know I got the adapter to seal up on the reservoir and was able to bleed the brakes. This Power Bleeder is nice piece of equipment once the adapter is on. I do have another question though. I bled the brakes (not sure if it was enough though) and the pedal is still pretty soft. After thinking about it I realized I didn't clamp the button on the proportioning valve. Would that be a reason to still have a soft pedal or do I just need to bleed more? I replaced the front calipers and brake lines, didn't touch the PM or rear cylinders. I'm thinking I just need to bleed more fluid through it but wanted to check and see if I needed to push that prop valve button in or not. I was under the impression that only needed to be in while doing the two man pedal bleeding method, not during any pressure bleeding. Thanks again!

 

[BuickMike231]

I bled them again really good and I am back in action. I guess I just didn't bleed them enough!

 

[turbobob924]

Cool, I got one of these bleeders to do my front brake swap and convert to silicone based fluid so it will not destroy any paint if there is a leak.

 

[charlief1]

Please tell me you didn't go to DOT 5 brake fluid Bob. It doesn't lubricate the brake system right and will cause issues later with the seals.

 

[turbobob924]

Oh no!

I did not to the brake flush yet but it is DOT 5 silicone brake fluid.

This causes issues?

Thanks for the heads up.

 

[charlief1]

This should help you some Bob. The catch is that the system has to be completely clean to use it. One thing you might try is flushing the system with isopropal alchohol befor you put the fluid in it. I've had to do this when someone put power steering fluid in a brake system. You might consider rebuilding the calipers, master cylinder, hoses ect. If you've got a powerbastard system I wouldn't even try it unless everything is new.

http://www.gabma.us/docs/dot5.pdf

 

[turbobob924]

THANK YOU for the information.