motor mount how hard to change
- Thread starter mikes gn
- Start date
Welcome!
By registering with us, you'll be able to discuss, share and private message with other members of our community.
Silver Fox
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Apr 17, 2003
- Messages
- 1,155
I've done two driver's side motor mounts in the last two weeks.
Jack the car up and put it on jack stands so you can get under it.
Put a block of wood on a floor jack under the oil pan and put a very slight amount of upwards pressure on the jack.
You will need a 5/8 and 11/16 sockets. The 5/8 socket and a few extensions will let you get to the bolt at the front of the motor mount, and an 11/16 socket and ratchet will let you get to the nut on the back of the motor mount. Once you get the nut off, slide the bolt out towards the front of the car.
Now you will need to loosen the two bolts holding the motor mount to the block. They are 5/8 bolts. Use a few extensions and a swivel and go in through the fender well.
Both cars I recently changed had to have a lot of torque applied to the bolts to break free. I used a 1/2 inch drive breaker bar to break them loose, and a ratchet after that.
Once the bolts are out, raise the engine very so slightly, and rotate the motor mount out to the rear.
Reinstall the new motor mount in the reverse order. Put a little oil on the motor mount bolts prior to installing them.
If you are getting the HRPartsNstff motor mounts, you will need a 3/8 inch allen head socket to put the new bolts in with. HRPartsNstuff mounts come with good instructions, too.
Hope this helps. It should take about 30 or 40 minutes to do this.
Oh yes, to answer where it is - it is located almost directly in line with your upper control arm on the block. When you go under the car, go in behind the front brake, and when you are under the driver's side of the engine look up and forward.
Rob.
Silver Fox
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Apr 17, 2003
- Messages
- 1,155
Sounds like you need one. I recommend the HR PartsNstuff mount. Do it once and be done with it.
Rob
thanks again on the write up.. i'm going with the $9 one from the parts store as i can have it tomarrow
IceHockeyJedi
Member
- Joined
- Nov 4, 2011
- Messages
- 58
As a novice, I'm certainly in NO position to tell someone what to do with their car. But, I'm quickly learning that being patient, spending a little more (or a lot more, lol), and supporting the vendors here, yields MUCH better results. Just my 0.02 cents, sir.
if it were june or july i would buy from one of the vendors here , as all of my other parts came from vendors here, but we are in oct. now and we'll have snow here within 4 weeks and then the car sits all winter. and i wana drive this pos now
IceHockeyJedi
Member
- Joined
- Nov 4, 2011
- Messages
- 58
Understood. Best of luck with your "pos". I know I'll be visiting this thread again, these instructions are great!
I remember thinking that. Then I had to pay $300 for a new set of fuel lines after the header got against the old ones cause the cheap parts store mount let it.
bob86gn
Senior Member
- Joined
- May 24, 2001
- Messages
- 503
Installed the H&R motor mounts today. Process was straight forward. SilverFox's writeup is right on.
You will use almost every small extension you have and swivel sockets help to get to the front bolt behind the oil filter.
I had to remove the crossover and starter. You don't have to the lift the motor as high as you think to get the old ones out and the new ones in.
Torque specs you will need to know:
Engine mount to frame - 48ft-lbs
Motor mount to block - 59ft-lbs
You will use almost every small extension you have and swivel sockets help to get to the front bolt behind the oil filter.
I had to remove the crossover and starter. You don't have to the lift the motor as high as you think to get the old ones out and the new ones in.
Torque specs you will need to know:
Engine mount to frame - 48ft-lbs
Motor mount to block - 59ft-lbs
