Motor mount questions

[Steve87GN]

I think my motor mounts are shot and have a couple questions about replacing them. The reason I think they are bad is that 1) the pass. side upper A-arm is banging against the downpipe on hard bumps and 2) I have a pretty nasty vibration at freeway speeds. I've been looking at the HRParts mounts. My questions are:

1) Any reason to go with factory rubber units instead?
2) How hard are they to install? Can I do it myself? Will I need any special tools?
3) What's the driveability like on the street?

Thanks as always.

 

[Blaze]

I think my motor mounts are shot and have a couple questions about replacing them. The reason I think they are bad is that 1) the pass. side upper A-arm is banging against the downpipe on hard bumps and 2) I have a pretty nasty vibration at freeway speeds. I've been looking at the HRParts mounts. My questions are:

1) Any reason to go with factory rubber units instead?
2) How hard are they to install? Can I do it myself? Will I need any special tools?
3) What's the driveability like on the street?

Thanks as always.

1)no
2)Didn't do mine myself but my mechanic cursed me for making him install them. I think with the special tool HR sells you can probably do it yourself.
3)The newer generation mount is said to be not as hard as the original ones. I have a newer vesrion & the car feels great. Motor is secure & I wont ever have to replace it again. Another added benefit is that you wont need 1 of those rediculous torq straps & your stock driver side header wont crack.

 

[scottk]

motor mounts

When my motor was out i put a factory mount on the passenger side and a HR mount on the driver side! I cant feel any difference from two factory mounts!

 

[imjoesnuffy]

Might consider replacing the body bushings if they need it first. Will add a lot of clearance between the DP and A-Arm. Does your engine torque over? have someone watch it while you brakeboost in. Just don't have them stand in front of the car.

 

[Rodney87GN]

I have HR mounts on both sides, doesn't feel any different than stock and I was able to get rid of the torque strap. Also make sure the pass side upper a-arm bushing isn't wasted or missing! Pretty common for that bushing to deteriorate. Someone also mentioned body bushings, that's a good idea too.

 

[Clark6]

I think my motor mounts are shot and have a couple questions about replacing them. The reason I think they are bad is that 1) the pass. side upper A-arm is banging against the downpipe on hard bumps and 2) I have a pretty nasty vibration at freeway speeds. I've been looking at the HRParts mounts. My questions are:

1) Any reason to go with factory rubber units instead?
2) How hard are they to install? Can I do it myself? Will I need any special tools?
3) What's the driveability like on the street?

Thanks as always.

I went with H&R mount on the driver side also wasnt too bad
autozone $7.00 passenger side, not bad at all
wait a minute come to think of it the driver side was pretty rough, i did both my self.

cant tell a difference except when i took the passenger side out it was 1" thick, when i put the new one from autozone it was almost 2.5" thick so big difference & i did get rid of that down pipe hitting that a arm knock.plus no more strap, looks much better.

if i remember i unhooked the battery first.........................
1)loosened the down pipe, and inter cooler upipe & intercooler from the turbo tilted it back
2) put me a hydraulic lift jack with a 2x4 under one side of the oil pan
3)used a 17mm or 11/16 socket on one side of the motor mount cup and 5/8 wrench on the other side.
4) ratcheted it loose took the nut off, slightly raised the jack just a hair to wiggle the bolt out of the cup. (you may have to loosen the 2 alternator bolts so it will give a little.
5) i used a swivel and extension ratchet to get the bolts off the side of the block they are 2 -5/8 bolts i think
6)take your time & dont get them fingers mashed, be very careful....... raise the jack under the oil pan a couple of more inches slid the mount out put the new one on, and reversed the process.

I did this my self but it might be wise to have some one out there to help watch in case you holler they can go get help:biggrin: i do believe i can do it in 30min on the passenger side the driver more like 45 min to an hour:frown:

 

[imjoesnuffy]

I went with H&R mount on the driver side also wasnt too bad
autozone $7.00 passenger side, not bad at all
wait a minute come to think of it the driver side was pretty rough, i did both my self.

cant tell a difference except when i took the passenger side out it was 1" thick, when i put the new one from autozone it was almost 2.5" thick so big difference & i did get rid of that down pipe hitting that a arm knock.plus no more strap, looks much better.

if i remember i unhooked the battery first.........................
1)loosened the down pipe, and inter cooler upipe & intercooler from the turbo tilted it back
2) put me a hydraulic lift jack with a 2x4 under one side of the oil pan
3)used a 17mm or 11/16 socket on one side of the motor mount cup and 5/8 wrench on the other side.
4) ratcheted it loose took the nut off, slightly raised the jack just a hair to wiggle the bolt out of the cup. (you may have to loosen the 2 alternator bolts so it will give a little.
5) i used a swivel and extension ratchet to get the bolts off the side of the block they are 2 -5/8 bolts i think
6)take your time & dont get them fingers mashed, be very careful....... raise the jack under the oil pan a couple of more inches slid the mount out put the new one on, and reversed the process.

I did this my self but it might be wise to have some one out there to help watch in case you holler they can go get help:biggrin: i do believe i can do it in 30min on the passenger side the driver more like 45 min to an hour:frown:

I would be real careful about jacking the motor up using the oil pan, 2x6 or 2x8 might be a better choice, especially if it is still attached via the motor mounts. The slightest of dents can ruin a perfectly good motor.

I had a small dent in my pan from running over one of those flip lids at a gas station. I heard it hit, got out looked under the car but didn't notice the dent in the oil pan. The oil pan was pushed up against the oil pickup.

Drove on home, by the time I got there it was starting to smoke a little, I looked down at 2 psi oil pressure as I pulled in the driveway.

 

[Steve87GN]

Thanks guys. Looks like HR is getting more of my money lol

Couple things:
1) How would the body mount bushings affect the A-arm hitting the DP?
2) Yeah, the upper A-arm bushings are due. Looks like I'll need to add those to my list.
3) I've done the motor mounts on my 93 LT1 Z28, and it sounds like these are easier than the LT1 mounts. Can anyone comment on that?

Thanks for the help so far. Slowly but surely I'm getting her back to where she should be.

 

[imjoesnuffy]

1) How would the body mount bushings affect the A-arm hitting the DP?

Uggghhh. I just read my post again and you are right. It won't add clearance between the DP and the A-Arm. It will add clearance between the DP and the Heater box/firewall area. I'm just gonna shut up now.

 

[Clark6]

Uggghhh. I just read my post again and you are right. It won't add clearance between the DP and the A-Arm. It will add clearance between the DP and the Heater box/firewall area. I'm just gonna shut up now.

Yeah your right on that oil pan hitting you have to be very careful and not lift the engine with NOOOO TENSION on the jack it is tricky---yes you can mess up that oil pick up tube i thought about that which is the most meticulous part you have to do. i havent dented the oil pan so far "whew".. i move mine maybe 1/2 in at the most & wiggle the motor mount bolt out from the back where the alternator is then it slides out then i ease the jack up about another 1/2 inch, the toughest part is gettin between the headers to get to the other 2 bolts mounted on the motor block.

yes its time consuming but ease it up wiggle your bolt, if it wont go ease it up a hair, wiggle your bolt if it wont wiggle i still just back it out of the threads till it comes out. No what ever you do dont put so much tension on the pan that you'll dent it, but if every thing is loose up top, i even forgot to mention i do loosen the driver side bolts to so the engine will swivel easier also, just take your time on it & it can be done.

oh yeah you were right joesnuffy the first time the NEW motor mount will take some clearance off the down pipe between the A-arm, that was the only & whole reason i done mine, where mine was laying a 1/4 in on the a-frame, with the new mounts, i have atleast a good 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch clearance off the frame now and that mount only cost $7 i said I'll just change them every 2 or 3 yrs for that much if i had to. now that i know how to do it .
you probably could get away with doing the driver side that way i just wanted the h&r mount on that side & got rid of that strap.

 

[Steve87GN]

Uggghhh. I just read my post again and you are right. It won't add clearance between the DP and the A-Arm. It will add clearance between the DP and the Heater box/firewall area. I'm just gonna shut up now.

lol Its all good dude. You don't wanna know how many times I had to remind myself that the body bushings wouldn't do it. No worries, I appreciate the help all the same.

This doesn't sound all that different than the motor mounts for the LT1 as far as procedure goes. It also sounds like it will be a lot easier than the LT1, as that was a PITA (anyone who's looked under the hood of a 4th Gen knows what I mean lol). Looks like I need to start saving some duckets to get my new mounts. Although it may be overkill, I think I'll just do both HR mounts so I don't have to worry about it again. Thanks for the help everyone.

 

[TR Custom Parts]

Just did both on my GN. Didn't take long at all as I had just taken my stock headers off the car. Figured might as well change them while they were staring at me. Previously had one of the first generation HR mounts on the drivers side and the stock one on the pass side. Did notice the motor sat a bit lower on the pass side. Once both mounts were replaced motor was perfectly level. Only special tool needed is a 3/8" drive 3/8" allen socket.