My boost gauge

[Turbo6Smackdown]

Ok, I have a VDO boost gauge here, that won't fit all the way into my A pillar gauge pod, because the brass threaded rod protruding out of the back of the gauge is either too long, or the little brass adapter that the boost line screws into won't thread onto the brass rod more than three threads.
Have any of you experienced this problem before? Should I just cut the brass rod coming out of the back of the gauge down, or try to force the adapter onto the rod?

 

[Turbo6Smackdown]

I see now. Noone said (the vendor nor the mechanic) that MOST A pillar gauge pods aren't made for mechanical gauges, but rather electronic versions. That's why mine doesn't fit all the way into the pod lol. (thanks guys) This comes straight from VDO. But honestly, I just don't trust electronic gauges. I want an actual boost line running up to mine. I have an idea that may work, and if it doesn't, a back-up to that one. If I can get this thing to work, I will post up the problem, and the solution. And if they don't work, I'll just have to trust the transducer.

 

[6gunn]

I have a gbody full length pillar on the way and plan to mount the boost gauge there. Now you've got me wondering if I'll have any problems... What does your pillar pod look like?

 

[87-WE2]

I had same problem with auto meter gauges. It fit into one of the holes, but not the other. One hole was a tad deeper. I had to compromise by putting it in what I thought was the wrong hole. Now I don't mind.


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[Lil Truck]

I have run the VDO 30psi in both types of pillar pods. Currently in the lower position on the dual full pillar pod. I had to rotat it to where the 30 mark is at 6 o clock. It still has about 1/8 gap showing. Be careful not to kink the vac line.

 

[Turbo6Smackdown]

I have this http://www.gbodyparts.com/popup_image.php?pID=913&image=0&osCsid=90d08df275064b08cd8439a561dfe39f
with VDO's version of the same gauges in that picture. The black bezel with black face 30psi boost gauge. And my mechanic had it about a quarter inch out of the pod, and clocked about 45 degrees off. This doesn't sit right with me. I want my shit right. I have a few solutions en route to me now. I'm going to try a few and see what's up. If they work, I'll post a how-to, because I have a funny feeling there's a decent amount of people with my pod and my gauge set up, and their boost line is kinked. Just like mine. Which is bullshit.

 

[6gunn]

Damn, well looks like I'll join this fun when mine arrives. I ordered the same pillar pod. I have a 25psi VDO gauge and will be putting a knock gauge in the other hole. Without knowing how all this looks installed, have you tried using any other fittings? A 90deg or 45deg fitting or something to that effect...

 

[Turbo6Smackdown]

On the way Took hours to find 3 pieces that I'm sure that one of them will fit. We shall see... 2 piece are en route now. One piece, that I think is the most promising, has yet to be found by the stock boy. Hopefully better luck tomorrow.

 

[Turbo6Smackdown]

I've also just read a thread today from Richard Clark about how he checks his boost gauges, and rarely finds one that even close. So I'm going to mock this set up up again, and see what I gotta see. After that, this is going to Mr. Clark hopefully, to see if my shit's right. I'm not sure I can sleep at night knowing that my boost gauge can potentially be reading say 18, and the boost's really 24 lol. No way. Not my car.

 

[6gunn]

I just got a new gauge and it must be stuck in a permanent vacuum because it reads 2hg.

 

[Lil Truck]

Damn, well looks like I'll join this fun when mine arrives. I ordered the same pillar pod. I have a 25psi VDO gauge and will be putting a knock gauge in the other hole. Without knowing how all this looks installed, have you tried using any other fittings? A 90deg or 45deg fitting or something to that effect...

I use a strait fitting to keep the vac line from kinking. It seems I did find a fitting that gave me a little more room. If you take the time to paint the body of the gauge to match the pod it will not be noticed. I used some hot glue to keep them in place, but heat and vibration worked them out to 1/8 inch.

 

[Lil Truck]

I find my boost gauge is mostly for staging and diagnostic use, not perfect accuracy. It moves way to fast and I rarely watch it when racing. I depend on PL logs for tuning data.

 

[Turbo6Smackdown]

I depend on mine.

 

[bryesh]

I ran into the same problem of my autometer gauges not fitting in my 3 gauge a-pillar. I hated doing it to brand new gauges, but I was able to make them fit in the pillar by cutting some of the threaded portion off. There was plenty left to hold down the gauge, and now they all fit in the pillar. Make sure it's what you want before you cut, because now I have a mechanical oil gauge (went with electrical) that I can't return because of this "fix".

 

[motrhed87]

I had same problem with the fitting hitting the inside if the pod. I used a short length of clear vinyl tubing between the gauge and compression fitting coming from the vac source. Just make sure to crazy glue and zip tie the tubing onto the threads. I run 25+ psi and it hasn't blown off yet.


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[trixdout]

I managed to stick a mechanical boost gauge in the top port of the 2 pod pillar gauge from gbodyparts. Its not in all the way and it also is angled towards me. Made sure its tight in the back with the holding bracket and it has not budged and works like a charm.

 

[Turbo6Smackdown]

I managed to stick a mechanical boost gauge in the top port of the 2 pod pillar gauge from gbodyparts. Its not in all the way and it also is angled towards me. Made sure its tight in the back with the holding bracket and it has not budged and works like a charm.

Put it in the right way lol. Don't worry. When this is done I'll have a write up on it, so that our cars don't look ghetto. Basically the gauge has two parts sticking out of it that smack the side of the gauge pod-the spade connector sticking onto the inner most blade of the light bulb module, and the little brass ferrule that holds the boost/vac line in place. For the blade connector I just yanked the wire out of the spade connector (its not like my mechanic actually soldered it in there, or crimped it good enough because it just pulled right out of the connector) drilled out the hole in the blade connector to the next size up, threw on a piece of shrink wrap, inserted the wires into the hole, bent them, soldered them, then shrink wrapped the entire connection, then bent that blade on a 45 degree angle to clear the pod wall. As for the boost line connection, I have 2 parts en route for different options and the third is coming next week. I'll finish the write up when I see the best option for the boost line. I'll provide photos of the problems we incur with this set up, and how to get around them.

 

[trixdout]

Put it in the right way lol. Don't worry. When this is done I'll have a write up on it, so that our cars don't look ghetto. Basically the gauge has two parts sticking out of it that smack the side of the gauge pod-the spade connector sticking onto the inner most blade of the light bulb module, and the little brass ferrule that holds the boost/vac line in place. For the blade connector I just yanked the wire out of the spade connector (its not like my mechanic actually soldered it in there, or crimped it good enough because it just pulled right out of the connector) drilled out the hole in the blade connector to the next size up, threw on a piece of shrink wrap, inserted the wires into the hole, bent them, soldered them, then shrink wrapped the entire connection, then bent that blade on a 45 degree angle to clear the pod wall. As for the boost line connection, I have 2 parts en route for different options and the third is coming next week. I'll finish the write up when I see the best option for the boost line. I'll provide photos of the problems we incur with this set up, and how to get around them.

Sounds good. By the way, for the spade connectors they make 90 degree female spade connectors. Those should help as much as thy helped me.


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[Turbo6Smackdown]

That's a dam good idea, though I haven't looked at my pod in a few days I was sure that there wasn't even enough room for the spade itself coming out of the back of the gauge.

 

[6gunn]

There wasn't much interference in the top location, but the bottom would have needed some modification for sure. All that was needed to clock the boost gauge in the correct position was to bend one corner of the bracket that holds the gauge tight.