BRAD_PADGETT
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jan 22, 2004
- Messages
- 3,581
I have the Razor kit installed and running correctly with no knock at 17lbs boost and I am still tuning and raising boost. The kit installs easily with the only tough points were finding the rubber gromlet throught the fire wall(below steering column) and location on the in line solinoid (on top of the heater blower). I started the test process with an 85 MAF(after market) and 85 ignition and my signiture mods and a new chip from an undesclosed vendor.
I converted the ignition with new after market parts. Then the VDO tach didn't work. My mechanic gave me and old coil module and it worked as well as the Tach.
I then tried the Razor kit and there wasn't any flow of alcohol. Julio diagosed the the power wire for the LED by the boost gauge was draining power to the Alky controller. This was a mistake on my part.
Next I had to get the IAC to .22-.24 volts at idle in gear-no problem at all. Just play with the screw on the throttle body.
You need to get your BLM to 128 at idle in gear. I spent alot of time playing with the fuel pressure. Couldn't get there. Julio diagnosed bad chip. Got a Turbo Tweek chip and problem solved.
You need your TPS at some number at idle in gear(I forgot what setting). No problem. I also was told that I need 4.5-4.6 volts at full throttle. Couldn't get there. Problem-An extra set of floor mats under the gas pedal.
Then I tested the car on stock boost and Alky. Knocked Knocked.
Julio diagnosed that the after market MAF didn't work. Installed a good stock 87 MAF.Still knock-Called Eric at TT-His chips are designed for one MAF screen. Removed one screen. Knock went down. Still knock. Board member figured out bad coil module. He was right. Knock reduced even more but still had knock.
A friend of mine questioned be as to why I had a vacuum line off the fuel pressure reg to the three bar MAP. Called Julio- He said that was fine as long as this line is new and zip tied. This line on my car was part original plastic and rubber not zip tied. Replaced line and thats when the car came to life.
I am not a mechanic but I listen very well and I got through this only with the help of the board menbers here, Julio at Razor, and Eric at TT.
Before you ever turn on Alky you need a perfectly tuned car,all vacuum lines fresh and zip tied and no mechanical or electrical issues at all. The vacuum line to the three bar MAP is critical because it controlls the Alky controller.
This is an inexpensive to run high boost on 91-93 octane an no intercooler
It works. PM me or post questions. Julio, Eric and board members can get you there. Brad
I converted the ignition with new after market parts. Then the VDO tach didn't work. My mechanic gave me and old coil module and it worked as well as the Tach.
I then tried the Razor kit and there wasn't any flow of alcohol. Julio diagosed the the power wire for the LED by the boost gauge was draining power to the Alky controller. This was a mistake on my part.
Next I had to get the IAC to .22-.24 volts at idle in gear-no problem at all. Just play with the screw on the throttle body.
You need to get your BLM to 128 at idle in gear. I spent alot of time playing with the fuel pressure. Couldn't get there. Julio diagnosed bad chip. Got a Turbo Tweek chip and problem solved.
You need your TPS at some number at idle in gear(I forgot what setting). No problem. I also was told that I need 4.5-4.6 volts at full throttle. Couldn't get there. Problem-An extra set of floor mats under the gas pedal.
Then I tested the car on stock boost and Alky. Knocked Knocked.
Julio diagnosed that the after market MAF didn't work. Installed a good stock 87 MAF.Still knock-Called Eric at TT-His chips are designed for one MAF screen. Removed one screen. Knock went down. Still knock. Board member figured out bad coil module. He was right. Knock reduced even more but still had knock.
A friend of mine questioned be as to why I had a vacuum line off the fuel pressure reg to the three bar MAP. Called Julio- He said that was fine as long as this line is new and zip tied. This line on my car was part original plastic and rubber not zip tied. Replaced line and thats when the car came to life.
I am not a mechanic but I listen very well and I got through this only with the help of the board menbers here, Julio at Razor, and Eric at TT.
Before you ever turn on Alky you need a perfectly tuned car,all vacuum lines fresh and zip tied and no mechanical or electrical issues at all. The vacuum line to the three bar MAP is critical because it controlls the Alky controller.
This is an inexpensive to run high boost on 91-93 octane an no intercooler
It works. PM me or post questions. Julio, Eric and board members can get you there. Brad
