My Hot Air Build Thread...Paint and Performance.

[Wahoo]

that car has been sprayed a couple times which is not abnormal. Fisheye eliminator is a bandaid, and some paint mfg highly discourage it.

Ok, well once I start sanding should I just aim to remove the peeling clear and then use epoxy primer over it?

there are a few spots on the car that are down to metal, would it be fine to sand off the clear and then go over both the metal and sanded clear with the primer or would that be an issue?

When do I use a sealer, and is it something I should consider?

 

[Toby_Goodmk]

if you epoxy prime there is no need to seal, here is the kicker, once you epoxy prime, you need to lay base coat or another layer of primer over it within 24 hrs. So if I were you and it seems you are not going to go to bare metal.....sand the entire car and epoxy prime it. Lay down a layer of high build regular primer. Then block the shit out of it. The epoxy primer will seal in all the old stuff. The new primer on top of the epoxy primer will be like your first level primer.

 

[Wahoo]

if you epoxy prime there is no need to seal, here is the kicker, once you epoxy prime, you need to lay base coat or another layer of primer over it within 24 hrs. So if I were you and it seems you are not going to go to bare metal.....sand the entire car and epoxy prime it. Lay down a layer of high build regular primer. Then block the shit out of it. The epoxy primer will seal in all the old stuff. The new primer on top of the epoxy primer will be like your first level primer.

Thats awesome, I've been searching for this simple answer for days lol. I don't know if you know there are a couple places that are down to bare metal from the previous guys work, I don't know if this is a concern or I just spray over everything that has been sanded and cleaned.

Any prep steps for the bumper fillers?

 

[Toby_Goodmk]

once you spray epoxy primer over the base it all gets sealed in...if you have every thing sanded up and scuffed properly. Bumper fillers? If you buy the ones that are oem type all that is needed is adhesion promoter a scuffing, primer and base, clear

 

[Wahoo]

once you spray epoxy primer over the base it all gets sealed in...if you have every thing sanded up and scuffed properly. Bumper fillers? If you buy the ones that are oem type all that is needed is adhesion promoter a scuffing, primer and base, clear

Cool, yeah I have the g body parts oem style fillers.

Some guys on a local forum to me said my paints so bad I need to take it down to metal, just from that pic above that I asked what that red stuff is. They think its filler idk tho

 

[Toby_Goodmk]

If you want a quick turn around job then just shoot it. If you want a long lasting appearance you do not have to worry about, take it to metal. This way all the reasons for it to crinkly, shrink, fall off are mostly eliminated.

 

[Wahoo]

If you want a quick turn around job then just shoot it. If you want a long lasting appearance you do not have to worry about, take it to metal. This way all the reasons for it to crinkly, shrink, fall off are mostly eliminated.

How's taking it down to metal compared to just sanding off the clear and scuffing the base?

What would you recommend me to use to get it down to metal? I'd like to use something that can go with my DA palm sander, although it has the hook and loop style backing plate. Although I'd like to switch it to whichever backing plate has the more budget friendly sandpapers.

 

[Toby_Goodmk]

Two gallons of paint stripper. Two weekends, heavy duty chemical gloves, wire brush, a case of Scott shop towels, two cases of beer and a putty knife. No kidding. If you sand everything off you will not only die from dust inhalation but will also warp the shift out of the panels.

 

[Wahoo]

Two gallons of paint stripper. Two weekends, heavy duty chemical gloves, wire brush, a case of Scott shop towels, two cases of beer and a putty knife. No kidding. If you sand everything off you will not only die from dust inhalation but will also warp the shift out of the panels.

Hmm, I guess I will have to think about my options. I don't plan to do the jams so if I used a chemical stripper I feel like it would end up in the jams and make more work for me, not that there isn't already a lot either way.

Today I removed the driver side window trim, door panel and mirror!

Tomorrow hopefully I will finish the otherside, then all wash the car and hopefully very soon decide on sanding down the clear or going to metal.

Here's a picture



Also drained my 80 gallon air compressor, I've never owned an air compressor before and I don't know when the last time it was drained I bought it used a few weeks ago. The water looks pretty bad, but I dot know if this what the water coming out normally will look like?

 

[Toby_Goodmk]

water will look like that afterall there is rust in the bottom of most if not all air compressors. That is not something to be concerned with as long as you drain it on a daily basis. The water if not drained wiill eat at your internals of your air tools. Water in airlines will cause a shitty paint job too. Make sure your air is dry dry dry. Attach desicant air dryers to your lines either through the inline type or more expensive filter type media.

 

[Wahoo]

water will look like that afterall there is rust in the bottom of most if not all air compressors. That is not something to be concerned with as long as you drain it on a daily basis. The water if not drained wiill eat at your internals of your air tools. Water in airlines will cause a shitty paint job too. Make sure your air is dry dry dry. Attach desicant air dryers to your lines either through the inline type or more expensive filter type media.

I have a cartridge style filter dryer I will use after run 30ft of 3/4 black iron zig zagged with drip legs, that way it should be real dry!

Any tips for removing the door handles and locks?

I also need to drop the window down further to get to the window trim/felt mouldings? Any tips?

Thanks!

 

[Toby_Goodmk]

Door handles and locks are taken out from the inside the door. In order to take the felts off you will need to remove the windows from the regulator.

 

[Wahoo]

Door handles and locks are taken out from the inside the door. In order to take the felts off you will need to remove the windows from the regulator.

Is there a simple process to do these things?

Looks like there is a stop that prevents the regulator from going down further which appears to only have one bolt? If I loosen this up will it drop down into the door far enough and then I can just reinstall the stop?

 

[Toby_Goodmk]

You can try releasing the stop and dropping the window down further. May or may not have the room...never tried it that way. It's almost easier for me to remove windows because I have done so many it comes second nature

 

[Wahoo]

You can try releasing the stop and dropping the window down further. May or may not have the room...never tried it that way. It's almost easier for me to remove windows because I have done so many it comes second nature

I'll attempt it once I do my intial wash of the car, even though the window felts are rotted and probably won't seal much, I don't want to fill my doors with water.

I did attempt to grind off the filler the previous owner applied. I thought I bought 80 grit from Harbor freight but they put the price sticker over the grit and I didn't look on the back of the package, either way i'm glid I got 40 because its taking a lil longer than expected.

QUESTION: Is sandpaper and a DA the best way to remove the filler?

FINDINGS: From what I can tell, although I couldn't really grind all of the stuff off, but it looks like he installed some sheet metal with rivets? Is this a horrible way of doing these repairs?

PICS:





What do you think?

 

[RUDE DOG]

Its not terrible but not my style either.

 

[Wahoo]

Its not terrible but not my style either.

Yeah my car has been fun opening Pandora's box!!!

I keep finding more and more to fix lol

 

[Wahoo]

So I have known about my car leaking oil and tranny fluid since I bought it, it's now time to fix it.

The tranny I believe is the pan gasket.

The oil is hard to pin point and is a real mess... I need to get some brake cleaner and spray everything clean and determine where it's coming from. Seems like pan gasket but could be rear main seal and front .

Recommend me the best gaskets to use?

Tx

 

[Toby_Goodmk]

ok, point 1. You will find all kinds of issues, which is normal.. I thought my car was fine and solid. Lol....no, quarters need replaced, rocker I thought were good, no. Anyways, this is normal. That repair with rivets is hill billy, and would never repair in that manner. I would either skin new doors, or order new door shells which are now available aftermarket. If you use the old doors, the patch needs welded in with metal and sanded smooth and then body filled smooth.

#2. The trans pan will always leak, choose an aluminum pan which will not warp it will take care of the leak at the trans

#3 If you want to remove filler in a hurry use a knotted wire brush on a grinder. Wear a respiratior and since it is warm out now, it should be easier to exhaust the dust. It is a mess.

See my pics where I found what I did not want to find...lol

 

[Wahoo]

If I can find some good doors I will replace them but maybe I'll buy a cheap welder and weld in some patches.

So an aluminum tranny pan should solve the leaking pan gasket issue? Any recommendations? Also what gasket is recommended?

My car came with an oil pan gasket to be installed but I don't know if its a good brand to use, I forget what it is, I'll have to check it out first.

Even before some of these fixes I should do a compression test because I really don't know how good of shape the motor is in.