Neal, Morgan, Lou, Jeff, Ray

[ledzeppac]

and anyone else you know what they are talking about...

I figured I would post here becuase I know most of you. :biggrin:

I'm still trying to figure my car out. I get knock at most boost levels above 5 lbs. It makes no power but runs fine just normal driving... List of parts that have been changed for one reason or another.
Turbo-- to a TA 60
Coil pack Ignition module
Injectors--- to 36lbers
Chip- stock -thrasher- Neal's
ECM
Fuel Pump-Walbro 340
Filter
Adjustable fuel regulator
MAF- T+
Valve Srpings-- Whatever Neal gave me

Engine has perfect oil pressure.. never oil in water or visa versa...
Just about 78,000

Fuel pressure set static @ 44 on "my" gauge goes down before 37/8 line on...
BL 130 at idle.

Now heres the fun part it doesnt knock at all with 100octane before and after the turbo switch which was last week.

But.. runs super rich. O2's 850ish and cant get rpms up over 4,000 and only 9-11 lbs of boost.

Stock turbo would boost over to 13-14 where it was set. But I dont want to adjust until it doens't knock with 91. I did get a code 42 last week but went away real fast... EST module... Some one said it controls knock retard?

I dont want to lean it out becuase once the 100 is gone then it knocks all to hell.. What do I do now?

Thank you
Especially to you couple guys who know who you are.....

Phil

 

[750H.P.V6]

Phil,

Off the top of my head since I don't have my GM manual in front of me code 42 is in relation to the ignition module. You said you have changed module. Was the replacment NEW or?

Neal

 

[ledzeppac]

Phil,

Off the top of my head since I don't have my GM manual in front of me code 42 is in relation to the ignition module. You said you have changed module. Was the replacment NEW or?

Neal

42 C3I EST or Bypass Circuit Failure
I've had Morgan's, mine stock one and a new Kirban's set on. Right now the stock one is on after it threw the 42.
Car ran real rough could barely idle... parked it... replaced module and coil pack with old one and still got a 42. The next day tried to start it again and was fine. That was three weeks ago and no problems since.

So after three different coil packs and ignition modules I dont think that is the knock problem.... I guess

 

[Drip Pan]

Looking at the title of this thread reminds me of a midnight showing of The Rocky Horror Picture Show, complete with audience participation:

"Neal, Morgan, Lou, Jeff, Ray!"

"Brad! Janet! Dr Frankenfurter! Riff-Raff!! ROCKY!!!" (audience: 'UGH!!!')

Meanwhile....

Neal--- not long after I met Phil I went over to his house swapped the coil pack & ignition module directly off my car, and Phil's car still knocked pretty good afterward. However, that was prior to the valvespring change and cam inspection Phil & his uncle performed, and prior to the turbo swap Phil mentions above.

Regards,
Morgan

 

[#1HotRod]

Lou's shop is open again after the holidays;
remove any sheep from the trunk.

 

[Gary Wells]

Lou's shop is open again after the holidays;
remove any sheep from the trunk.

--------------------------
Naw, you can leave the sheep in there, especially the ewes, it's the sheepherders that he doesn't do well. Or maybe the sheepherders don't do him well.
FWIW & IMHO:
Lou has my car running very nice right now.

 

[wiked87gn]

check your settings on the T plus, check for air leaks, make sure the FP comes up with boost you may have a shot FP regulator, slipping convertor may also cause your symptoms, i doubt is electrical but you never know, when was the last time you changed your fuel filter, also a kinked baffel or should i say the pickup on the bottom of the tank if it was put in the wrong way it maybe twisted causing you not to get enough fuel when needed,those are just a few things i would check..

 

[ledzeppac]

check your settings on the T plus, check for air leaks, make sure the FP comes up with boost you may have a shot FP regulator, slipping convertor may also cause your symptoms, i doubt is electrical but you never know, when was the last time you changed your fuel filter, also a kinked baffel or should i say the pickup on the bottom of the tank if it was put in the wrong way it maybe twisted causing you not to get enough fuel when needed,those are just a few things i would check..

T+ is fine... Neal set it
I can't find any leaks...
I originally had a 327 regualtor on and now a adjustable... both knocked
Converter and trans was done by Art recently... oh yeah have to take it back to him!
Fuel pump and filter have been changed recently... knocked before and after.

Neal- while EST is realated to ignition module. I read somewhere where the actually ESC module is located on the passenger side fender well. That it does something with the knock sensor... sound familiar??

I found out a real easy way for it to stop knocking today. Have it not start so I can't drive it... super duper Luckily I have "one" good leg so I can't push it over to my driveway

EDIT: its the battery... easy fix

 

[wiked87gn]

could this also be false knock, if so check downpipe for any hitting on the frame all the way back to the exaust, how about the kink on the pickup inside the fuel tank, it maybe have been installed incorrectly you should also check that.. also knock sensor should not be tightned more than 22pounds of torque, check that it may not be overtighened..

 

[Raymond Bunch]

Dude dun,no as all the basics seem to have been covered thus far.

In saying this, exactly what chip are you using, street, strip ect. What's the timing in the chip and fuel curve? Also insure all, All grounds are good and you might want to check your spark plug gap. What spark plugs? If you made big up grades, you should be using CR42TS, or UR5 gapped at a tight 32. or other similar spark plugs. Hope you get it figured out soon man and sorry to hear about these issues your having. Also, just like someone said before, make sure your T Plus is set up right. I know a couple of knowledgable people who had trouble figuring it out.

Ray

 

[ledzeppac]

Well I thought it was false... but I put 100 in and knock seemed to go away.

So I knew my turbo was blowing a little oil... I changed that and hoped it would solve it. Well nope still knocked with new turbo on 91 but not 100.

Then I thought oh wait duh need a new chip burned... but that would/should cause it to go lean becuase its a bigger turbo and I'm not leaning out....

Also, o2's have been read on Morgan's direct scan, Neal's OCT 2000, and my scanmaster....

I believe the knock sensor should be 12 lbs not 22.... I guess thats what I should try next....

Spark plugs are ac42... and I cant remember what they are gapped at... I gapped them to what GNTTYPE.org said. But for some odd reason I want to say it was 35....

thanks guys... keep the ideas coming

 

[ledzeppac]

Well plugs were 43's actually... gapped at 35.

I got some 44's which are the stock and gapped them at 32... no change

 

[turbolou]

Reply

Had a Buick in the shop this week with simular symptoms, Car had 130,000 miles on it, After trying all the usual fix's I decided to get into the timing chain. Glad I did the plastic teeth were all in the oil pan. I was amazed that the car still ran with such damage. I also had a car awhile back with same complaint & it turned out to have a worn crank key & slot in dampner, How about a worn cam lobe that will also cause some wierd problems, If you can't find the problem give me a call. Good Luck Lou.

 

[turbolou]

Reply

Lou's shop is open again after the holidays;
remove any sheep from the trunk.

No Sheep,No service! new policy is now in force! Sorry no exceptions !

 

[Mac in SD]

No Sheep,No service! new policy is now in force! Sorry no exceptions !

LOL!!!

 

[ledzeppac]

I'm ordering sheep this weekend

Thank you to all you guys that helped me out saturday. I really appreciate it.

Couple more questions...

Has anyone ever experience different knock counts on different scan tools?
I show very little knock on Morgan's scan tool and a good 4.5.6.7... on my scanmaster...

Neal.... I need a new chip burned for the ta60 as the chip is for the stock turbo. What do you want me to set the base fuel pressure at for now? I've been playing with it but its acting kinda wierd. Very very rich down low in 1st and 2nd some knock and only 9-10 lbs of boost. 3rd gear leans out a bit and turbo starts to spool to about 14. no knock... Now I'm a little confused as to if its boost creep or just slow spool do to a rich condition. I have fuel at 42 static and I'm getting cruise bls anywhere from 114 to 153... blms seem to be very high but o2's are above 800... ok I dont think this helped paint a picture.. Let me get some real numbers and I'l email them to you.

Morgan.... I'm going to give you a call this week. I pulled out the brake stuff for you and your scan tool is safe. I guess I didn't need to write that... :redface:

phil

 

[turbo]

Injectors--- to 36lbers
Chip- stock -thrasher- Neal's

Seems like the problem. I'd try that first, before anything else.

 

[750H.P.V6]

The chip I burnt for Phil is for 36 lb injectors. What exactly are you insinuating?

Neal

Injectors--- to 36lbers
Chip- stock -thrasher- Neal's

Seems like the problem. I'd try that first, before anything else.

 

[turbo]

The chip I burnt for Phil is for 36 lb injectors. What exactly are you insinuating?

Neal

They way it seems to read (stock-thrasher) is the chip was a stock one, the brand being a Thrasher. So, if you or whomever burned the chip for him when he had stock injectors, it should have been fine.

But, if he used the same chip (stock) for 36 pounders it would be off. That is unless a stock-thrasher is a 36 lb chip, with "stock" meaning a stock profile. Like a smog chip.

That's exactly what I meant, no insinuations!

 

[Drip Pan]

turbo--

I think what Phil was getting at was that he went through a series of three chips as he gradually upgraded his fuel system. Stock is GM/AC Delco, Thrasher is aftermarket. And, smog chips typically have different profiles than a stock chip.

Lou-- we did a cam inspection when Phil had the intake off, and all the lobes looked good including the #3 exhaust.