Need advice on how to proceed with refresh

[87GNT]

Hi- I am fairly new to TB arena and I am needing some knowledgeable advice on how to proceed with 87 GN engine performance upgrade.

I have an 87 GN I just purchased with 89k miles ALL original with factory stock motor. The car is a 2 owner car and for the past 16 months its been sitting dormant in an empty lot. I'd like to add a few performance mods and run mid-high 11's without compromising driveability nor reliability if that's possible.


Below is a list of Mods I have gathered thus far based on reading posts on this site.

Stock 3.8 liter V6 engine (refresh list)
Have the stock iron heads inspected and ported/polished
160 degree stat
Replace original timing chain with double roller
60 lb/hr fuel injectors
TurboTweak chip (5.6 2094 60# )
Comp Cams 980 valve springs
RJC Power Plate
ARP bolts
Walbro high pressure in-tank fuel pump w/ hotwire
Accufab rising rate fuel pressure regulator
Hallman ES manual boost controller
AlkyControl progressive alcohol injection system using a Coolingmist VC-II Controller
LS1 Mass Airflow Sensor & MAF Translator
K&N air filter with 3" intake pipe
Precision TE-44 Turbocharger
Tial Blowoff/Bypass valve
3" downpipe.


Tranny
Rebuilt transmission with shift improver kit
PTC 10 inch 2800rpm lockup torque converter
Flex plate

Rear-end Suspension
Stock G80 rear differential
H&R Rear Upper/lower control arms
3" Hooker cat-back exhaust system

Am i on the right path here or ?

Thank you all for your time and comments in advance!

 

[Jerryl]

Focus on the fuel system, and learn to tune with PL and WB. Do the "Spring cleaning", and make sure it runs as it should before you start adding parts, with the exception of the timing chain and springs . . . maybe.

Run good oil, and with the alky kit, stock heads/cam you should be able to get into the 11's "IF" the Trans holds up. Lots more to this short story . . .

Read everything you can, and go slow with mods. If not, the car will test your wallet and patience.

Oh, did I mention tune?
Good luck.

 

[87GNT]

Focus on the fuel system, and learn to tune with PL and WB. Do the "Spring cleaning", and make sure it runs as it should before you start adding parts, with the exception of the timing chain and springs . . . maybe.

Run good oil, and with the alky kit, stock heads/cam you should be able to get into the 11's "IF" the Trans holds up. Lots more to this short story . . .

Read everything you can, and go slow with mods. If not, the car will test your wallet and patience.

Oh, did I mention tune?
Good luck.

Hello Jerryl
You make a great point about getting it to run as it should prior to the performance upgrades. The tranny is in fact stock and I should probably consider getting it hardened if i read between the lines?

Thanks again!
Ed

 

[huntsg]

I would add a WB, Powerlogger, and Drag Radials. If you plan on doing your own tuning I would ditch the Translator/MAF/TT chip combo and go with the SD2 chip (or you could go with a FAST system $$). I would add my caution to Jerryl's that you should start with a good tune and take it slow.

 

[we4Mateo]

I would add a WB, Powerlogger, and Drag Radials. If you plan on doing your own tuning I would ditch the Translator/MAF/TT chip combo and go with the SD2 chip (or you could go with a FAST system $$). I would add my caution to Jerryl's that you should start with a good tune and take it slow.

I don't think any SD setup is good for a new to TR person. And why throw money at it replacing working parts when it's known it'll NEED other things? Make what you have work first and see where you are. It won't slow down your quest for speed much and these cars are more forgiving when left a bit slower. This will allow you to work out bugs before you're at a level where mistakes have significant carnage. As mentioned, see what you have before you determine what you need.

 

[Pronto]

Does the engine run? Is there any known issues with it? I would make sure it runs good first unless you know it's got some bad issues like a blown head gasket or wiped cam. Start with the spring cleaning and upgraded fuel system. Work from there. Stick with simple stuff first. If you can get it run good you should be able to run a low 13 high 12 with some minor mods. Stick with a TT 6.1 chip and Powerlogger/wideband until you learn more about tuning.

 

[earlbrown]

I like that list except for a few things....

If you're heads are in good shape and pass a leakdown test DO NOT pull them off the car. The bang for the buck just isn't there (no to mention the problems a LOT of people have keeping gaskets in place after an R&R)

Replace the timing set with another GM set. They're quiter, and have proven themselves to last 150,000 miles or 20+ years, whichever comes first.

Hold off on the Alky kit until AFTER you're done ALL the preventative maintenance updates AND you have the car running tip-top shape. (and when it's time to crank up the boost research Julio's Razor alky kit. It's more tailored to our cars than the cooling mist system)

Forget about all the whiz bang boost controllers until long after the cars running right and hauling ass. That's the time to start adding goofy gimmicks and complicating things. A stock type threaded wastegate setup and maybe a manual boost controller (if you need faster spool) is all you need.

If you have to buy a BOV, use it to chock the back wheels to keep the car from rolling. We don't have stick shifts.


Take the money you allocated for alky and BOVs and buy all new hoses for under the hood, a scanmaster, a powerlogger and a wideband setup.


Oh and while you've got the tank down, make sure to do the free hangar mods to increase flow and while the timing cover is off defiantly do the free oiling mods.

 

[87GNT]

I don't think any SD setup is good for a new to TR person. And why throw money at it replacing working parts when it's known it'll NEED other things? Make what you have work first and see where you are. It won't slow down your quest for speed much and these cars are more forgiving when left a bit slower. This will allow you to work out bugs before you're at a level where mistakes have significant carnage. As mentioned, see what you have before you determine what you need.

Can't argue with common sense

 

[87GNT]

Does the engine run? Is there any known issues with it? I would make sure it runs good first unless you know it's got some bad issues like a blown head gasket or wiped cam. Start with the spring cleaning and upgraded fuel system. Work from there. Stick with simple stuff first. If you can get it run good you should be able to run a low 13 high 12 with some minor mods. Stick with a TT 6.1 chip and Powerlogger/wideband until you learn more about tuning.

Thanks!!! Yes the engine does run and I've so far performed a compression test and all the cylinders are within 115-125PSI range.

 

[87GNT]

I like that list except for a few things....

If you're heads are in good shape and pass a leakdown test DO NOT pull them off the car. The bang for the buck just isn't there (no to mention the problems a LOT of people have keeping gaskets in place after an R&R)

Replace the timing set with another GM set. They're quiter, and have proven themselves to last 150,000 miles or 20+ years, whichever comes first.

Hold off on the Alky kit until AFTER you're done ALL the preventative maintenance updates AND you have the car running tip-top shape. (and when it's time to crank up the boost research Julio's Razor alky kit. It's more tailored to our cars than the cooling mist system)

Forget about all the whiz bang boost controllers until long after the cars running right and hauling ass. That's the time to start adding goofy gimmicks and complicating things. A stock type threaded wastegate setup and maybe a manual boost controller (if you need faster spool) is all you need.

If you have to buy a BOV, use it to chock the back wheels to keep the car from rolling. We don't have stick shifts.


Take the money you allocated for alky and BOVs and buy all new hoses for under the hood, a scanmaster, a powerlogger and a wideband setup.


Oh and while you've got the tank down, make sure to do the free hangar mods to increase flow and while the timing cover is off defiantly do the free oiling mods.

Hello Earl!!!! nice to hear from you. I brought LS1 MAF from you a while ago.....thanks for the advice

 

[earlbrown]

Then your list is almost done!!! lol

oh, and judging by your avatar, I'd scrounge up some fenders and a hood too

 

[87GNT]

Ok so based on the feedback so far I will go down the road spring cleaning,

Then your list is almost done!!! lol

oh, and judging by your avatar, I'd scrounge up some fenders and a hood too

LOL!!! actually i have to update my avatar pic as that's a dismantled parts car I have for extra parts purposes....Nice to hear from you Earl!!!

 

[HouTX87]

Definitely do all of the spring cleaning and then tackle the fuel system first. You'll be glad you did. It will take a little while before you are ready to crank up the boost but be patient and you'll be much happier with the car. I'd also recommend the TA performance link timing set with tensioner. This is the one Nick Micale recommended to me. Replacing the stock cat with a test pipe was the first time I was able to spin the tires so I'd say at least pick up a test pipe. I ran a 12.1 @ 113 last year with a lot less go fast stuff than I have now (stock maf, 42lb injectors, tt 5.7 chip, 23lbs boost, ta60 turbo). Pretty simple bolt ons and I still haven't had a chance to beat that time.

 

[87GNT]

Hello!!
12.1 quarter with just a few mods...Damn that's impressive. So my long list of mods isn't really all that necessary then and will only complicate the matter it sounds like? Is your GN a daily driver or weekend car? Is it to where you're comfortable driving it 500 miles without worrying about breakdown?

Thanks for your advice I appreciate it!!!

 

[hiboom]

I would buy a scan tool learn what the numbers are telling you about your set up first lot easy to tune if you know what your looking at IMO

 

[HouTX87]

Hello!!
12.1 quarter with just a few mods...Damn that's impressive. So my long list of mods isn't really all that necessary then and will only complicate the matter it sounds like? Is your GN a daily driver or weekend car? Is it to where you're comfortable driving it 500 miles without worrying about breakdown?

Thanks for your advice I appreciate it!!!

Those weren't the only mods at the time but the things I remembered being different from what's in my sig. Very reliable as long as I stay on top of it, but it took about a years worth of weekends working on the car to get to that point. 15k miles in two years so it's driven pretty frequently but not everyday. I've driven round trip from Houston to Bowling Green twice with no problems. 1700 miles round trip.