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NEED ADVICE! Should have bought the hard top

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GSGN

Got a thing for G cars!
Joined
Mar 17, 2003
Messages
70
For the first time in 19 years I regret having T-Tops :mad: You know that spot, in the front , between the black plate and the seal? Well I saw a "little" rust a while back and finally got around to removing the plate. Turns out the rust ran all the way across the front, just on the one side! My car has not been in the rain since 1991 in BG!! It's still riding on the original brakes and I was freaked to see so much rust. :( I do wash it so that must was the source of the water. In the process of removing the plate, I tore the damn double sided seal that goes between the plate and the body.

Anyone know where I can get this stuff? It's about and inch wide and 1/4 inch think.

Fortunately, I have set of new trim "plates" and the complete T-Top window rubber ($400 from GM :mad: ). It looks like a difficult job to replace this rubber as it is a long piece that starts at the door, goes along the T-Top and back down the door :confused: Can anyone who has had the same proplem offer any advice as to how to repair the rusted area, find that double sided seal and the best way to remove and replace the rubber? THANKS
 
The reason for the rust in that area is, the seal was never glued to the t top troff chanel. The water after washing just sat there and didn't drain off.

I owned a T-Top car and had this same problem. I bought a hand held sand blaster, It looks like a paint gun but the reservior hold sand blast media. Taped it up and cleaned out the rust, used POR 15 and liked good. I sealed the new T Top seals in with silicone caulk and all is good.
 
SPOOLN said:
The reason for the rust in that area is, the seal was never glued to the t top troff chanel. The water after washing just sat there and didn't drain off.

I owned a T-Top car and had this same problem. I bought a hand held sand blaster, It looks like a paint gun but the reservior hold sand blast media. Taped it up and cleaned out the rust, used POR 15 and liked good. I sealed the new T Top seals in with silicone caulk and all is good.

Odd thing is that the rubber on the OTHER side was replaced by the dealer when the car was new (seem to recall I complained it was mis-shaped) and that side DID NOT rust. The factory side did. When you removed the plate you must have seen that doubled sided 1/4 think seal. Is this where you substituded the silicone caulk? Thanks
 
for the future reference I use a leafblower to get in the cracks and keep me from drying with a clothe and touch the paint.less touch means less scratches

maybe you can use this method for when washing your gn this might also aide in that dept

nowadays I dont even bother drivn in the rain


Alan
 
T-Top rot

This thread got me thinking about a piece that could (or should) have been made in the T-bar assembly process...I just finished a body resto on a rosewood 86 t-type for a friend, and the condition of the forward windshield frame, including the R & L forward pillars, was unbelievably bad. We billed 14 hrs to rebuild the L & R lower pillars, 3.5 hrs on the LHS top frame, 1.5 in the center area (which is where most of this started, I'll come back to that in a minute) and had to get the owner (who's a talented metal man himself) to make the weatherstrip channel on the LHS; which had disintegrated due to rust damage. In fact, what was left of it came out with the weatherstrip! Most of this water damage appears to have started with water gaining entrance at the top of the t-bar center pillar and (for some reason) ran almost exclusively to the LHS. Looks like it sat between the weatherstrip and the windshield frame, rotted that out, and then ran to the inside of the pillar areas, (again, mostly on the LHS) pooled there over the years, and finally rotted out the bottom of these. Wouldn't it have made sense to install some sort of a "U" shaped weatherstrip that fit between the winshield post and the center pillar (and the R & L t-bar weatherstrips) to add some protection here? Guess that's rhetorical question, but if this area was sealed, it would sure have saved a lot of repair (and money) on this car, and probably a few others. Almost enuff to turn a guy off t-bar's forever...won't get into the cracks in the cowl, doorframe, etc. that required another 5.5 hrs of welding...anyway, the owner has decided to a) not drive the car in the rain, and b) not wash the t-bar area...chamois only!
 
Check Your T-tops

I believe I was fortunate enough to catch the problem early but can't help but wonder how many other T-Top equipped cars are silently rotting under the weather stripping :confused: :mad:
 
GSGN said:
I believe I was fortunate enough to catch the problem early but can't help but wonder how many other T-Top equipped cars are silently rotting under the weather stripping :confused: :mad:

I have pulled some cars apart & look like new with 100K on them. Then you get into a southern car That you think will be rust free & find a 4" hole rotted clear on thru the roof.

I went threw the same thing you did a few years ago that is why I started making the T-top retainers, plates,& Center t-bars in stainless steel.
It seems like the t-top plate & the retainers rub together.Then you get moisture in there & by the time you see it it's too late.
 
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