Need help tuning Alky

[BuickMike]

Howdy folks!

I've got Razor's kit minus the PAC for right now. Before anyone gives me crap, I can only afford to get the kit in stages right now because I have a baby on the way.

Anyway, I've got the system running of a Hobbs switch set to turn on at 12psi. I'm running a street chip for now as well. Originally I set the pump regulator at one turn past what I got it with. (Should be factory setting). I tried running at 20psi with Alky and the car stuttered bad. I shut off the alky and ran the car at 15 to 17psi without it just fine.

I realized this was because there was too much alky, so I turned the pressure on the pump down 3 whole turns (2 turns less than what I got it with) so that the allen screw is sitting just under the top of the plastic part. I also turned my fuel pressure down from 43psi static to 40psi. I took the car out again. The first run went great for about 4 seconds until the car misfired again. The couple frames I captured in Turbolink showed O2 volts at 805mv and then some KR during the hiccup. I turned the boost down to 15psi and ran the car a couple of times without alky to get some data. Basically 808-816mv on the O2's and no KR.

What should I do next, turn the alky pressure down further?

Thanks,

Mike.

PS

Razor, did you say the regulator screw was supposed to be just inside the regulator or barely protruding out? If it needs to be sticking out then I need to lower the pressure on the alky pump more.

 

[BuickMike]

I was just looking at my run data without Alky again and noticed BLM's are at 148 at WOT. Integrator is fine. Looking at the buffer data before the run BLM's are at 121 when putting at 1900 RPM's.

 

[Razor]

Ahh the old days of fixed point tuning

Do this, get you car running at 15 PSI boost and O2's in the mid-upper 700's. Like 770's at 90+ MPH Then switch the kit on to spray and see what happens.

If your chip commands too much fuel.. you'll be chasing your tail for a while. Typically the pressure screw sits down about 1/16 of an inch below the top. If its flush, you really are not pumping in any serious amount, unless the car is on the verge of running rich.

Your BLM's will move around as you drive. The BLM table is a 16 position grid and as your load and rpms change so does the grid being affected. Tho about 8 are only used.

Your BLM at idle have to be in spec ie.. 128 +-5-8 and while your driving around it should also hover 128 +- 10. I dont like to hear 150 or 105 on that table becuase it means your at the end of adjustment.

If dropping fuel and dropping alky dont yield results. Your next move is try another chip, and you may try another MAF.

HTH

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