Need help with adding a knock gauge

#1
I have a 80 draw through engine in my car. Any one know if I can tap into and witch wire on my ESC module to add my Casper Knock Gauge? I know I can buy a different module and go that route. I thought beings I have one maybe I can use it. I am no longer going to use the distributor though. Going with a MSD distributor now, because of clearance issues. Any one done it?
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b4black

Well-Known Member
#2
Unless you have a California emissions, that's a stand alone knock module (no ECM). I don't think it will work.

Since you not using the ESC distributor anymore (and therefore no more knock retard protection), you should upgrade to a 83/87 knock sensor and module. That set up will be much better at filtering out false knock. Plus the knock sensor is way cheaper than the 1978-82 knock sensor.
 
#3
Unless you have a California emissions, that's a stand alone knock module (no ECM). I don't think it will work.

Since you not using the ESC distributor anymore (and therefore no more knock retard protection), you should upgrade to a 83/87 knock sensor and module. That set up will be much better at filtering out false knock. Plus the knock sensor is way cheaper than the 1978-82 knock sensor.
I came to that conclusion all ready. I ordered an ESC module for a newer car and a pigtail. With out a computer to read the signal from the knock sensor I don't know any way it would work. The only thing is it adds expenses to the knock gauge, but worth having it. With the knock gauge and the Wideband I can setup the timing on the Holley Sniper. If I can not get it figured out I will by a J&S safeguard. I wanted to run the factory distributor, but there was no way it would fit with the 87 acessory brackets . Here is what I have got going on.
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b4black

Well-Known Member
#4
Holley Sniper? I think we would all like to here how that goes. I was talking to a Holley rep and he suggested the HP if I wanted to keep the knock retard and tune from a laptop.

How does the Sniper control timing?
 
#5
I wanted to run the factory distributor, but there was no way it would fit with the 87 acessory brackets . Here is what I have got going on.

As you already discovered, the HEI distributor doesn't fit with the 87 accessory bracket belt tensioner. A slightly shorter non HEI distributor doesn't fit either. I never looked to see if new holes could be drilled and the tensioner relocated on the bracket enough to clear. If you scrap the AC, you can use a Champion Racing acessory bracket.
 
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#6
I have not gotten to that part yet. I have not bought a TBI yet. My original plan was to use a Power Adder Fitech and a J&S safeguard to control the timing retard. From what I have read and been told you can do both with a Sniper. You have to change the fuel regulater and you can use it for forced induction. I have read a few articles on people who have done it . I was trying to keep this as simple and painless as I could. I am new to this turbo and tuning stuff, so I need dipers first. Now that I am this far along. I think I may have been over complicating this, but I am kind of committed. My car dose not have a ECM. It is a 79. That is why I have a distributor, and a four barrel intake manifold. Going blow through with a TBI. I know now it probably would have been easier and maybe cheaper to use a 87 intake, cam position sensor, and a Megasquirt. But that is not the route I took and may go that route later. Take it easy on me, I am leaning as I go.
 

ShawnR

Fixer of crap..
#7
I think there are a lot of us in the exact same situation. It seems like we are maxxed at fairly pathetic power unless we commit to some major upgrades, and that gets expensive quick.

Knock gauge and wide band will get installed before summer with a basically stock engine to see how far I can push it with just meth injection. I'm not expecting much, but I will want those gauges when I upgrade the engine anyway.

I really thought I could build an EFI engine for around $4k. Not a chance in hell unless you find a complete donor car for cheap and just swap with minimal upgrades.
 

turbo89

Well-Known Member
#8
I think there are a lot of us in the exact same situation. It seems like we are maxxed at fairly pathetic power unless we commit to some major upgrades, and that gets expensive quick.

Knock gauge and wide band will get installed before summer with a basically stock engine to see how far I can push it with just meth injection. I'm not expecting much, but I will want those gauges when I upgrade the engine anyway.

I really thought I could build an EFI engine for around $4k. Not a chance in hell unless you find a complete donor car for cheap and just swap with minimal upgrades.
you can do it for $4K .. just gotta know where to look

and adding a knock gauge to a setup your trying to make power with is useless .. all it tells you is how much damage you've already done.
 

b4black

Well-Known Member
#9
Nearly every car today uses a similar knock retard set up as the turbo buicks. Far from useless. I add timing/boost until I see a little knock, then back off. Literally hundreds of passes, no hurt motors.
 

turbo89

Well-Known Member
#10
Nearly every car today uses a similar knock retard set up as the turbo buicks. Far from useless. I add timing/boost until I see a little knock, then back off. Literally hundreds of passes, no hurt motors.

As i said in my post .. when your making power .. putting a knock gauge on just tells you how much damage you've already done .. its that simple

I never said the knock retard feature was useless .. i said the knock gauge was
 

b4black

Well-Known Member
#11
And without a knock gauge, I would never know if it was retarding or not. I would say it is critical to tuning a carb/turbo. These knock modules/ECM pull out way too much timing and way too long. The gauge is the best way to know.
 

turbo89

Well-Known Member
#12
And without a knock gauge, I would never know if it was retarding or not. I would say it is critical to tuning a carb/turbo. These knock modules/ECM pull out way too much timing and way too long. The gauge is the best way to know.

I wouldn't put much faith in the gauge.. they have proven to be inaccurate

The plugs are your friend.. they dont lie