Need help with MAF Translator pro problem

[TurboBob]

Dave,

I called Rick saturday and we went thru my settings. He pointed out that the spark base should be 15, so I changed it. I thought the spark base was based on the fuel in the car. 93 octane=16.4. Another thing that we found was the DC was at +30.5. I thought it was duty cycle for the injectors initially but it is the speed density compensation. I replaced the IAT hoping it would fix the temp problem. It is still reading -39??? Problem must be in the extension or in my wiring harness. I will track that down when I get it back.

Key on, engine off the MAF signal was 1.1, Rick pointed out that it should be higher as well. Didn't note what it was before I dropped the car off. Thanks for all of the help guys!

Without proper sensor signals, the Pro cannot possibly calculate correct airflow. You need to spend some time with a voltmeter and figure out whats goofed up.

Bob

 

[imjoesnuffy]

Update

Got the car back from paint.

Started right up, idles good when cold. When the car warms up, it will die if not given throttle. I have messed with the Idle adjustment screw and reset the TPS, but it varies too much to get it consistent.
Hesitates at light throttle.
While maintaining steady throttle, it seems to want to sputter/pop/very mild backfire after maintaining a steady rpm for anything over 10 seconds or so. Mainscale is at -15.

Here is the kicker, at WOT the car now runs very strong. Tires break loose before hitting 2nd, and pulls strong up to 15 psi. The car is still running rich as it is a dog off the line. Idles 8.9 AFR

I got out the voltmeter as Bob recommended and started checking the connections. Everything seems fine as far as I can tell. I am getting 2.55 volts to the IAT key on/engine off does this sound right? I used a circuit tester on the extension and it is fine.

AFL reads between 0 and 1 key on/engine off. Idling it reads between 6 and 8.

No change in MAP signal with the powerlogger on or off. Did you mean with the wire for the powerlogger diconnected from where it is tapped into the wire going to the C437 connector?

 

[BlackBandit]

I have messed with the Idle adjustment screw and reset the TPS

That's not an idle adjustment screw. If you're having idle issues I would try setting the IAC andthe TPS via the instructions on gnttype.

 

[imjoesnuffy]

That's not an idle adjustment screw. If you're having idle issues I would try setting the IAC andthe TPS via the instructions on gnttype.

I would love to do just that......but it won't stay running long enough. I know it is the screw for the Idle air control, it is the only way I can keep the car running as it will die before I can get out of the car and under the hood to move the throttle.

I hope I don't sound like a smart@$$, because that is not my intent. I really appreciate everyone's input on this, and I don't wan't to overlook anything.

Thanks,
John

 

[TurboDave]

Got the car back from paint.

Started right up, idles good when cold. When the car warms up, it will die if not given throttle. I have messed with the Idle adjustment screw and reset the TPS, but it varies too much to get it consistent.
Hesitates at light throttle.
While maintaining steady throttle, it seems to want to sputter/pop/very mild backfire after maintaining a steady rpm for anything over 10 seconds or so. Mainscale is at -15.

Here is the kicker, at WOT the car now runs very strong. Tires break loose before hitting 2nd, and pulls strong up to 15 psi. The car is still running rich as it is a dog off the line. Idles 8.9 AFR

I got out the voltmeter as Bob recommended and started checking the connections. Everything seems fine as far as I can tell. I am getting 2.55 volts to the IAT key on/engine off does this sound right? I used a circuit tester on the extension and it is fine.

AFL reads between 0 and 1 key on/engine off. Idling it reads between 6 and 8.

No change in MAP signal with the powerlogger on or off. Did you mean with the wire for the powerlogger diconnected from where it is tapped into the wire going to the C437 connector?

If it was mentioned I missed it, but what chip are you running??? I'm a little concerned about your idle maf readings. You're running speed density mode right?

What is your MAP reading on the translator pro. key on engine off? idling?

 

[imjoesnuffy]

If it was mentioned I missed it, but what chip are you running??? I'm a little concerned about your idle maf readings. You're running speed density mode right?

What is your MAP reading on the translator pro. key on engine off? idling?

Dave,

I am using the GN Extender pro. Bob sent me another chip to rule the chip that I had reburned was OK, thought there could have been a problem with the chip as it would not run. I am running speed density mode without temp compensation as my IAT reads at -39F, since I relocated it to my up-pipe. I replaced the sensor but it is still reading -39. I need to figuire out which pin out it is to check it there as the harness and extension check out.

I am running the 2 bar map at the moment as the 3 bar reads at 141 key on/engine off. The 2 bar reads at 91. Idling the 2 bar reads between 40 and 60.

 

[TurboDave]

Sounds like you've still got quite a few issues to get worked out before even trying to drive the car.

Gotta get that IAT/MAT figured out. You need that info going to the TPro.

You also need to get a known good 3 bar MAP and get it into the system to look at the readings. Might be some wiring issues there too.

 

[imjoesnuffy]

Sounds like you've still got quite a few issues to get worked out before even trying to drive the car.

Gotta get that IAT/MAT figured out. You need that info going to the TPro.

You also need to get a known good 3 bar MAP and get it into the system to look at the readings. Might be some wiring issues there too.

Got a new 3 bar MAP from Full throttle today. Cleared the problem right up! Idles fines, no tip in stumble, or breaking up at part throttle.:biggrin:

Now to sort out this IAT issue.

 

[TurboBuRick]

Alright! Thats great news John. Now you know how important a map sensor is to a speed density system. Learning that early on like you did will help in your overall tuning adventures. Fueling on a speed density set up is based on manifold pressure verses rpm. Without the proper signal, fueling can be way off. In tuner pro you can open up the ve table get an idea how it works. More advanced users can tune the car by tweaking the numbers ve table.

When ever a problem comes up on a maf car, the first thing you take a close look at is the maf.
When ever a problem comes up with a speed density car, You take a look at the map sensor.

Glad it's running! :biggrin:

 

[TurboBob]

for your IAT problem, come visit this thread.

Codes 32, 34 & Cannot Download Bin from Emulator. - Full Throttle Speed Tech Support

Bob