Need help with no spark and no injector pulse problem

[Shawn N]

Alrighty just put a reman computer in it with no change. I did find the module was miswired which is why the car had spark and then didn't. I double checked all grounds and fusible links. The computer has power and ground to it but no power leaving it according to my mechanic which is why I went ahead and bought a ecm. That's another $150 into the fire. I don't know what else to do with it at this point.

 

[TurboBuRick]

Verify the cam sensor wheel is spinning when you crank the motor. Also verify the cam sensor wheel it tight to the shaft. The tab that kyes the wheel to the shaft is known to break and throw it off the position. The wheel should NOT move if you grab it and try to turn it.

Verify power on both pnk and blk wires on the module plug when key is on. Pin P and M

Verify power on the pnk and blk wire on the injector harness when key is on.

Verify the CE light come on when the key is turned on.

If all that checks out, loosen the cam sensor hold down and turn the cam sensor a little at a time until it starts...

Rick

 

[michael evans]

Verify power on both pink with blk wires on the module plug when key is on. Pin P and M

Verify power on the pnk and blk wire on the injector harness when key is on.

Verify the CE light come on when the key is turned on.
Rick

Check with a load light. I just went though this and like you, I got to chasing my tail.

 

[Shawn N]

Thanks for the info Rick. The cam sensor I replaced and set with the cam tool. I will check the wires for sure.

 

[TurboBuRick]

Don’t be so sure the cam sensor is set right. You have nothing to loose by trying to move it..

 

[michael evans]

The cam sensor is no injector pulse

The crank sensor is no spark or injector pulse

It is either in the wiring or crank sensor in his case.

If you were closer, I would take a look at it.

 

[TurboBuRick]

Or blown fuse.... there are 2 that run the module.
I can’t tell you how many times someone told me they checked the fuses and I go in and pull a blown fuse out..

I would lend a hand a s well if it was close. I could have it running in minutes and long as the timing chain didn’t skip...

 

[Shawn N]

The cam sensor is no injector pulse

The crank sensor is no spark or injector pulse

It is either in the wiring or crank sensor in his case.

If you were closer, I would take a look at it.

Both the crank and cam sensors have been replaced and verified working by the Caspers sensor tool and cam tool. All fuses have been checked twice over. The 3 engine grounds are good along with the 3 fusible links on the starter. The ecm has been replaced. The module has been replaced also.

 

[Shawn N]

Or blown fuse.... there are 2 that run the module.
I can’t tell you how many times someone told me they checked the fuses and I go in and pull a blown fuse out..

I would lend a hand a s well if it was close. I could have it running in minutes and long as the timing chain didn’t skip...

I wish it was that easy this time but it's full blown f**kery this round!

 

[michael evans]

Next find a load ligtht and check the wiring.

 

[ttypewhite]

Call Caspers and buy a new wiring harness for the complete car. It replaces everything from the ecu to the fuse panel under the master cylinder, and complete engine harness. They are $800 and change. Pull your yours and toss it in the lake and get back to enjoying your car. After 30+ years the factory wiring gets sketchy and unpredictable. Buy a new one and your issues will be a thing of the past. Nothing better than a piece of mind.

 

[captndave737]

Does it start and then immediately stall or not start at all?

 

[Shawn N]

Does it start and then immediately stall or not start at all?

It's will turnover but not start.

Call Caspers and buy a new wiring harness for the complete car. It replaces everything from the ecu to the fuse panel under the master cylinder, and complete engine harness. They are $800 and change. Pull your yours and toss it in the lake and get back to enjoying your car. After 30+ years the factory wiring gets sketchy and unpredictable. Buy a new one and your issues will be a thing of the past. Nothing better than a piece of mind.

It's way more than $800. Last I looked $1250 when I bought the sensor tool from John a few weeks ago. I'm not trying to go that route just yet until the issue is pinpointed.

 

[Shawn N]

Don’t be so sure the cam sensor is set right. You have nothing to loose by trying to move it..

I'll pop the cap off and pray I don't drop another screw into the abyss. Like that pretty Earl Brown washer I dropped into cylinder #6. I sure was excited though when I got that little bastard off the top of the valve...true story.

 

[grey racer]

Been following this post and was interested if the problem was discovered....

 

[bpman1234]

me too.

 

[No disintegrations]

In summary,. There is a new ecm and wire harness and cam sensor?
I believe turboburick is right and the wheel on the sensor is slipped or sensor is not set right. I read through and wasn't satisfied the cam sensor was given enough effort. I'm sorry if I missed something also. Mike evens could be right too but I missed weather the car has no spark or no fuel up to this point.

 

[Shawn N]

I haven't jacked with it in a couple weeks but I have it back home now. It's Texas and it's still 90 degrees at midnight but I'm on vacation next week. I will start going through the stuff t type white suggested I do since this will be likely a wiring issue. The spark problem was the module being miswired by the person who worked on my car. I still don't have injector pulse and I'm really leaning towards the injector harness itself. I will post an update next week guys.

 

[Shawn N]

Verify the cam sensor wheel is spinning when you crank the motor. Also verify the cam sensor wheel it tight to the shaft. The tab that kyes the wheel to the shaft is known to break and throw it off the position. The wheel should NOT move if you grab it and try to turn it.

Verify power on both pnk and blk wires on the module plug when key is on. Pin P and M

Verify power on the pnk and blk wire on the injector harness when key is on.

Verify the CE light come on when the key is turned on.

If all that checks out, loosen the cam sensor hold down and turn the cam sensor a little at a time until it starts...

Rick

Ok update. I verified the module power, ecm power at batt and at ecm itself, all injector plugs and the main injector harness. All fuses are good. I noticed I have no oil pressure on the gauge when cranking the engine. The wire was loose on the oil sender. I cleaned up the connector and snugged it up, no change. This wire sparked by the cam sensor when I put the battery back in a few weeks back. I see no damage externally on the wire itself. I will prolly rewire it tomorrow night. I can't check to see if the cam sensor wheel is turning solo. I'll have to enlist my TR buddy this weekend. I'm going to send it off again on Monday if I can't figure it out. Hopefully Duke or Jack will take it. I'm growing very tired of f***ing with this car and my apts tagged it as abandoned.

 

[No disintegrations]

If no one is around a strategic placement of a mirror will let you see if the cam sensor rotor is turning. Or make a remote starter wire. Obviously if the Tang broke it will be timed wrong anyway.