Need Input on 9 Second Cam

[turbonatr]

This winter I will be building the engine in my T for some very low 10 second and hopefully high 9 second power. I pretty much have the combination set except the cam. I am torn between going with a good flat tappet like like Jason Cramer did for his TSM combination (9.9x e.t.) and a roller. The reason why I am torn is this car is going to be a street/strip car, not a dedicated drag car. I'm really not thrilled at the idea of setting lash with a hydraulic roller every so often. If need be, I will go with a roller, though.

The combination is going to be a girdled 109 with GN1s and a Turbonetics P trim T72. The rest of the combo is already on the engine; 70mm t-body, ported intake, FMIC, 72lb. injectors and supporting fuel system, etc. Basically, I need a cam that will compliment the GN1s and the T72. I am currently running the stock ECM with an Eric Marshall chip, but may go to a Gen. 7 DFI. I could very well call my tuner (Job Spetter Jr.) and get his recommendation, but I already know what he'll say, "Gen. 7 and a solid roller". I was also thinking I could go with the same cam as my bro-in-law as I know which springs, locks and pushrods work with this cam and GN1s (that is if I decide to go with a hydraulic roller). His cam's specs are...

RPM range...1500-6200
Duration @ .050...218/212
Lift...511/.504
Spe. angle...112*

So, some input from you guys out there in TSM land would be great. The sooner the better as I need to get my engine out to the machine shop.

Thanks.

 

[norbs]

If you need a adapter harness for the gen 7. I can make one for you.........

http://www3.sympatico.ca/norbz/gen7done.JPG

I also stock gen 6's that would save you alot of $ and run just as strong.

As for cam i would go roller just becasue it ihas less chance of wiping and putting metal through your bearings...People have gone 9s with a pte 210/210 cam. I would not go bigger than 218 or 224 as it will just make the car soft...........

 

[VadersV6]

Amazing that you can make so much power on such mild cam specs!
Why would you have to set lash repeatedly with a hydraulic roller? The point of a hydraulic cam is to avoid having to set lash. If it's a solid roller I could see that...
Its not really duration that kills the lower powerband. Its overlap. Instead of the intake charge bleeding through the cylinder right out the exhaust like an N/A motor, with a turbo motor there is higher pressure in the exhaust, so the exhaust charge actually tries to bleed into the cylinder and into the intake manifold. If you could keep lobe separation wide enough to limit overlap, yet still run some higher duration, you should be able to squeeze some serious power out of that motor. I've been wondering why so many turbo regal grinds look like N/A grinds. Maybe its time for the cam makers to start offering something more up to date in terms of technology. All those high powered turbo imports (not the rice crap) arent running even patterned cams. Maybe they dont bother with better cams because with the wrong cam you may lose 30-40hp. But with the wrong turbo, you can lose 100hp.

 

[turbonatr]

A solid roller is what Job Jr. wants in the car. This is where I will be setting lash all the time. My bro-in-law runs a hydraulic roller (specs listed in my first post) and does reset lash every so often (not nearly as often as with a solid). His cam is a split duration and split lift roller with a centerline of 112*. It's an off-the-shelf CompCam High Energy hydraulic roller.

The more I think about it, the more I am leaning towards getting the same cam.

 

[top gun]

Call Dan at DLS his cams are in the fastest Buicks.

 

[turbonatr]

Website link?

 

[turbonatr]

Does anyone know the part number of Jason Cramer's "off-the-shelf" CompCam? All his website says is it's a 218/218 flat tappet. CompCam's website doesn't seem to list it.