Need Radiator ASAP

[gnxjames548]

Gonna buy a Radiator this week.My question is which one should I buy.Please any feedback will be great !!!!!!

 

[TurboTnZ06]

I got a alum radiator from gbody parts, dropped right in, has the cooler fittings too. I'm sure Bruce's from PTS is just as good too, as I run Bruce's custom alum deep tranny pan.

 

[blown okie]

the f-body rad. seems to be the bang 4 the buck way to go...do a search on it there's a lot of info on this subject

 

[gnxjames548]

Where do you get the F body one ?

 

[gnxjames548]

I got a alum radiator from gbody parts, dropped right in, has the cooler fittings too. I'm sure Bruce's from PTS is just as good too, as I run Bruce's custom alum deep tranny pan.

How much ?

 

[BLACK6PACK]

Do a search for f body radiator. I think its from the 88-92 fbods. They're only about $110-125, are aluminum with plastic end tanks. You can get them everywhere.

 

[turbo nasty]

91 5.7 F body radiator works as well as the 87 regal 307 v8 raditaor alum one.

Neither have the engine oil cooler provision just the trans coolers

 

[Red C5]

I have one for sale. Check out the link in my sig. It's ready to ship, brand new.

 

[TR Custom Parts]

In stock!

ALUMINUM RADIATOR $399 plus shipping includes a cap and has both coolers.

 

[REAPER231]

I run one of the PTS ones best money i ever spent . Buying 2 more for my g-body pontiacs this year

 

[INEEDAGN]

I just got my PTS radiator delivered to me today. Looks nice. Of course, haven't got it in yet. It, along with a bottle of RMI 25 and a new cap was $545 delivered to my door, insured. Forgot to ask for a PTS sticker for the freezer but oh well. I'm replacing all the rubber hoses along with the t stat at the same time, but I think I'm going to wait to upgrade the fan to see if I even need to.

It even has my name engraved next to the serial number. Makes me feel all warm and fuzzy inside.

 

[John Larkin]

Have yours recored. Takes about 2 days. I paid $225 locally. Keeps it original and works great.

 

[BLACK6PACK]

Only downside to the recore is if you're using the oil and trans coolers, you're running it through 20 year old pipes that can let loose. With that said, I have a recored radiator.

 

[V8Assassin]

Cool as the other side of your pillow!

I was having overheating issues, dropped in the G-body and have not seen the temp gauge go over 170. Very happy with the fit, appearance, and most importantly the performance of Brian's piece.

 

[vader87]

Here you go!

1987 CHEVROLET CAMARO V8 5.7 Liter Radiator:
Part # 433918: 26 1/4 x 17 1/4 x 1 3/8 = 622 cu. in.

My post on the install:
http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/general-turbo-buick-tech/198537-f-body-radiator-install.html

 

[Red C5]

I'm surprised the fbody works since it's so thin. The one I have is probably double that thickness. I'd be nervous on a street car in a warm climate such as California.

 

[Brer Rabbit]

Thickness only matters to the ladies!

I'm surprised the fbody works since it's so thin. The one I have is probably double that thickness. I'd be nervous on a street car in a warm climate such as California.

The F-body is all aluminum and keeps the cars right at 170-175 with the A/C on 90 degree days. I sat in traffic on the Dan Ryan expressway for over an hour in 90 degree heat stop and go all the way and it never even creeped near 180. As far as these cars go, I would have to say thats the best mod for the dollar. I believe the Napa part number is Modine #951. Well under $100.00.

 

[VadersV6]

Like I always say, when doing this mod, the first step should always be to unbolt the fan relays from the passenger side inner fender. Pop the connectors out, and painstakingly remove all the 20 year old die electric grease from all the pins and sockets, using ronsonol lighter fluid (yellow bottle), wire brushes, picks, blow gun, etc. Get them all sparkling clean and spray WD-40 in the sockets and you're good to go. That old grease turns to this roofing tar like substance that KILLS conductivity and causes a huge amp draw...bad for the whole electrical system and it causes the fan to spin slow. The little coil in the fan delay box...the tiny leads fry like a fuse after being exposed to these high currents, so take care of that. Get yourself a 50 watt, .1 ohm fuse, and use that fuse instead of the factory one...just disconnect the leads to the factory fuse and solder the leads on the new resistor. Now when the low fan circuit kicks on, the "low speed' will be alot faster than stock slow speed, but not full blown high speed that'll wear the fan motor out and cause funky imbalance vibrations that resonate through the whole car (if your fan is out of balance at all). This isnt necessary but it made a big difference on mine. I use the stock fan and it works liek it should. It runs 162 degrees all the time, except stop and go traffic where it hits 168, rarely up to 172. I popped the thermostat housing out along with the thermostat, and pulled the lower radiator hose off at the radiator (obviously you have to to replace the radiator)...get a garden hose and flush the whole cooling system out..the crud in the system will coat the aluminum surfaces in the tubes and affect conductivity alot more than you realize. Stick a hose where the thermostat goes on the intake, and flush all that out. Then stick the hose in the lower radiator hose and flush it that way (watch out cause it'll be spraying out of the front of the intake). Flush the other way again, and the other way again. NOW after all this, theres actually a point to all this.
Call the local autozones and find the cheap aluminum radiator for the 87-89 Z-28's and IROC camaros. I spent 108 bucks for mine. I drops right in. Just make sure the rubber pads that support the radiator, below and on top are located right or you'll squish the radiator and can cause little cracks at the fins. Buy a new radiator cap. get it all back together, fill it up with 30% antifreeze and 70% distilled water from the grocery store. The high water percentage s heat transfer. Adding a bottle of watter wetter makes it even better, but I dont need it with the mixture I use. Fire it up with the radiator cap off, let it warm up and wait for the thermostat to open. The water level will drop quick and keep filling it till it tops off. Grab the upper radiator hose and squish it quickly severeal times, then the lower hose, then the upper again, etc...to pulse all air pockets out of the system. But watch out cause it'll pump coolant out of the radiator cap hole and burn you. Keep a close eye on the temperature cause if you have any air pockets, it will overheat quick. But the pulsing of the hoses will take care of that. You'll be good to go.