Need some help and opinions on combo

[czimpel]

Converter slippage looks to be about 9% using the calculator. Trying to guess my trap RPM as close as I can with my log.

 

[czimpel]

Thanks everyone for the replies. This gives me some areas to work on for sure.

I'm going to have some fun and try and build my own SLIC, so we'll see how that goes.

 

[vacuum 6]

You have a few things wrong in your build based upon my experience of putting a few hundred T-R's in the 10's over the many years, and the first thing I would change is the converter, and use a 10" NL with 3400-3600 stall.

Why such a high stall for a 6262?

 

[Nick Micale]

Why such a high stall for a 6262?

Because it works!

This past year alone I have replaced 6 converters that owners and other shops have installed because they were way too tight, These were all 10 sec. street builds and were 3300-3600 with turbos from 60mm to 66mm.

My original T that I purchased new had the converter replaced in 1987 with a 10" non-lock up converter. This car has 9500 miles and the only changes are the converter, dual exhaust no cat, good tires, a chip and all else is stock but the air cleaner, valve covers never removed.

With that said, it went from 14.9 at the track to 13.0 with proper traction, w/o the converter it would not get traction at the line.

My race car converter is a 8" 5000 NLU stall converter that will leave with a big-block V-8 off the line. You need to understand too tight a converter will couple up too soon which will break tires loose.

I said the before, I win races off the line to be first at the finish line, and do not give a damn about MPH other than an indicator of HP.

 

[SCOOBY DOO]

I run an AC 16930 with my 6262 JB. It's a dog off the line on Erics default settings. Dial the low gear fuel and timing in...and it spools pretty damn quick and I pull 1.5's. I find that most don't know how to tune...so they immediately go to a looser convertor.

 

[czimpel]

I find that most don't know how to tune...so they immediately go to a looser convertor.

I don't think Nick falls into this category. Lol.

 

[Linewalker]

I do. I fall into that category. How much fuel and low gear timing do you add in? I just need a baseline and then I can (hopefully) tune from there. Thanks.

 

[czimpel]

From my experience(very limited), you pull fuel and add timing to get the best launch without knock. For me, timing plays a big role in how the car 60 foots. There's not an exact number, just slowly change them and monitor results.

 

[SCOOBY DOO]

I'm not referring to Nick...just what I've noticed over the years. I run Erics 112 race chip with VP 112. It's nothing for me to go 6 degrees over Erics low gear timing default...and I'll drag the low gear fueling below 780. Every engine is different...you can't go by what I do. Erics alky chip has aggressive mode.

 

[Linewalker]

I'm not referring to Nick...just what I've noticed over the years. I run Erics 112 race chip with VP 112. It's nothing for me to go 6 degrees over Erics low gear timing default...and I'll drag the low gear fueling below 780. Every engine is different...you can't go by what I do. Erics alky chip has aggressive mode.

I realize every engine is different, but I never thought of doing this. I should have and I feel kind of stupid. Sometimes we get hung up on thinking it's one thing (stall) and start beating a dead horse. Thanks for the advice. I'm excited to start working on this.

 

[czimpel]

I'm not referring to Nick...

I know, that was the reason for the lol.

 

[SCOOBY DOO]

In regard to the original posters short times. I was stuck years ago in the high 1.6's. I was running 90/10's up front and 50/50's out back. I had a friend video the car from the drivers side rear quarter on launch. What I saw was the rear end unloading the tires. The rear was bottoming out on launch and then jumping up unloading the rear tires. To alleviate this I grabbed a pair of rear QA1 single adjustables...and practised launching until I got the proper adjustment. The other thing is launch RPM. You have to figure out what your convertor flashes to on launch. With my car I have to hit the tires at 3950-4000 to get a 1.5 launch. Anything less...and the launch suffers. To much...and it snaps the tires loose. It's a fine line.

 

[ScottHeidinger]

I do. I fall into that category. How much fuel and low gear timing do you add in? I just need a baseline and then I can (hopefully) tune from there. Thanks.

Make sure you are running some high octane fuel if you're going to add 6 degrees in low gear. I would start by adding 1 degree at a time and keep a close eye on the Knock gauge.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Linewalker]

Thanks for the advice. I do plan to creep up on it slow. I have an old Conley's audible knock detector that works perfectly. As soon as I hear it go off, I get out of the boost. It has saved my butt many times.

 

[chris kirk]

My best 1/4 mile slips are attached. I know there is more in it, but I'm stuck with how to get it out. I think the turbo has more in it, but I'm running into a bottleneck somewhere along the line.

Here's my thoughts on my bottlenecks right now.
Stock Dutt Neck intercooler is probably a huge pressure loss, and I'm running through a crappy 2 1/4" dual exhaust after the Y pipe. Mufflers look to be an off the shelf brand of nothing special.

I've ran a 11.48 at 24-26 lbs of boost and the 11.43 at 26-27 lbs of boost. Best 60' was the 11.48 run.

I'm also having a hard time getting rid of some KR at the top of 2 and 3 guessing it's from increased heat from the turbo having to work so hard to overcome the pressure loss.

Just looking for some thoughts and opinions on which direction to go.

My goal is a 10 second slip.

Oh, and just in case Bison responds, he'll probably want to know the CR. Crappy H471 -30cc dished hypers in a .040 4.1(4.005) .015 in the hole with Fel Pro 1000 (.039 compressed) head gaskets and a fresh set of Champion irons(46cc).

•E85
• Budget 4.1
• ATR Billet Roller RP309G
• Champion Ported Irons
• 120lb injectors
• Racetronix 450 pump with teflon line kit
• Boosted Fuel Pump
• TR6 Ignition
• Accufab FPR
• Turbo Tweak E85 chip 6.1WB
• 6262 .63 Turbo
• Dutt Neck Stock IC
• 3" RJC DP
• 3" Test Pipe
• RJC Power Plate
• 1" Champion Spacer
• 3" CAI • Extreme Automatics Stage 2 2004R
• 2800 NL Converter
• Stock Rear End with TA Cover
• Boxed Lowers
• 275/60R15 ET Streets

---------- This post is intended for mature audiences --------- Parental discretion advised.....

Who did the "Budget 4.1?" Why/what makes it a "budget 4.1" I'm no motor head, but I'm pretty sure "budget" is not an adjective one should use to describe one's motor! Just sayin.......

I would get the motor straight first. Find out what's "budget" and what's not...... I don't think you want the thing fallin apart while driving down the street......

Ditch the Preshitcision turbo..... Call Reed at Work Turbo, he'll give you plenty of advice/options on turbos for different power levels.

Once you decide on a turbo conntact Twisted6 or Bison to make you a cam, port your heads, and recommend a TC to match up with your turbo. Also, ask them to do a set of Diamond pistons with a CR around 9.5:1 with Cometic head gaskets.

Then rest is plug-and-play. Exhaust, IC, rad.....

And also, make sure you find someone that knows what they're doing to tune it.

 

[SCOOBY DOO]

You can build one of these engines on a budget...just look at my build in my sig. It has a Comp Cams flat tappet and the rotating assembly has been balanced,,,that's it for the short block. The heads were done by JB Racing in Montreal Quebec. The rest are bolt ons...with a TT 5.7 chip and a used 16930 convertor I picked up for 300 bucks. I bracket race the car most weekends spring to fall between 6.9 to 7.3 between 97 to 101 mph...and I tune it via narrowband. Getting the combination correct...and tuning...is vital. The 1/8th is far less stressful than the 1/4 from a durability standpoint...note the TAI guys run the 1/8th. You have to find someone that knows these engines in and out...you just don't hand them to any builder. Where you can't skimp...is with these 200 transmissions...that's where the money is.

 

[czimpel]

---------- This post is intended for mature audiences --------- Parental discretion advised.....

Who did the "Budget 4.1?" Why/what makes it a "budget 4.1" I'm no motor head, but I'm pretty sure "budget" is not an adjective one should use to describe one's motor! Just sayin.......

I would get the motor straight first. Find out what's "budget" and what's not...... I don't think you want the thing fallin apart while driving down the street......

Ditch the Preshitcision turbo..... Call Reed at Work Turbo, he'll give you plenty of advice/options on turbos for different power levels.

Once you decide on a turbo conntact Twisted6 or Bison to make you a cam, port your heads, and recommend a TC to match up with your turbo. Also, ask them to do a set of Diamond pistons with a CR around 9.5:1 with Cometic head gaskets.

Then rest is plug-and-play. Exhaust, IC, rad.....

And also, make sure you find someone that knows what they're doing to tune it.

Do a search for budget 4.1. Built myself. No motor issues.

 

[Linewalker]

Boost, I did not mean to hijackyour thread. It was certainly not my intention. I just got caught up in all the valuable information that was being given.

Again, my apologies.

 

[czimpel]

Boost, I did not mean to hijackyour thread. It was certainly not my intention. I just got caught up in all the valuable information that was being given.

Again, my apologies.

No worries. We're all here to learn.

 

[turbo89]

Because it works!

This past year alone I have replaced 6 converters that owners and other shops have installed because they were way too tight, These were all 10 sec. street builds and were 3300-3600 with turbos from 60mm to 66mm.

My original T that I purchased new had the converter replaced in 1987 with a 10" non-lock up converter. This car has 9500 miles and the only changes are the converter, dual exhaust no cat, good tires, a chip and all else is stock but the air cleaner, valve covers never removed.

With that said, it went from 14.9 at the track to 13.0 with proper traction, w/o the converter it would not get traction at the line.

My race car converter is a 8" 5000 NLU stall converter that will leave with a big-block V-8 off the line. You need to understand too tight a converter will couple up too soon which will break tires loose.

I said the before, I win races off the line to be first at the finish line, and do not give a damn about MPH other than an indicator of HP.

HUH ??? Seriously ?