New Build - How many miles before getting on it?

[UncleDave]

Well, got the motor in, replaced a bad MAF sensor, seems to be running fairly well. But I have a few questions:

1) How many miles should I wait before really getting on it? Right after first oil change? I was road testing, and decided to pick up my son from school; took the back roads home, encountered a steep hill; when the boost came on, the thing went nutz up that hill, and only at 9-10 psi. I just don't want to push it too hard too early, before all kinks are worked out. But I'm not used to that kind of pull, I can't wait to see what it does at higher boost.

2) Very quick puff of smoke on startup, smells rich. Does not continue beyond that, and idle is good. new 42lb injectors with TT chip burned to match. Should I be concerned?

3) Clicky valvetrain. Not sure if that's just the way Comp rollers are, but it's way noisier than before, especially after it's warmed up. Oil pressure is good, and there doesn't asppear to be any unusual play in the rockers, so just wondering if this noise is normal with these lifters?

4) Had to wire ignition power for the fan. Turns out I have it so the fan runs whenever the key is on. Temp stays within 170 - 180 range consistently, so hopefully it's OK to keep the fan the way it is.

5) I think I may be blowing oil out of the passenger side breather... I saw a puff of oil smoke from under the hood after boosting, but when I stopped to pop the hood, there was only a small waft in the vicinity of the passenger side breather. Nothing was wet, no drips, the turbo oil drain is nice & tight, and nothing was leaking (??). Where could this have come from? After getting into boost and suddenly letting up all the way (to hit the brakes quickly), I heard a strange sound I can't describe... I checked for vacuum leaks and couldn't detect anything. I replaced a flimsy EGR block plate with the thicker Champion piece, and it's sealed up tight. Any idea what the noise could have been? Could it have been related to the puff of oil smoke?

That's probably enough for now. Just having too much fun.
~Dave

 

[QUIP'6']

after a rebuild just do a couple 10 psi gooses to seat the rings and then you can let her rip!!! if its going to break it wasnt done right. hey how do you like the ta performance stock replacement headers? sound different? are they quiet or louder? good luck on your build.

 

[UncleDave]

Thanks. Let the fun begin.

I really have nothing to compare the TA Stock Replacement headers to since I converted from a stock hot air. What I can say is that they are very nicely made, a perfect fit. No trouble with spooling either, boost seemed to come on instantaneously.

I also replaced the old Hooker system with Mark's 3" (GN1?) system. The 3" is as quiet as the Hooker, until you step into it. You can sorta hear the turbo through the exhaust, something I wasn't used to before, but like.

Funny thing, I thought my boost gauge wasn't working. I could hear the TE44 rpm's rise and fall and expected to see a couple psi, but nothing. Then I got on it a little more going up that hill, and received an education. I like it. Actually I wish it was a bit louder.

 

[2QUICK2B6]

I would atleast drive it 500 miles ? Its yours so turn it up to 30 psi an make a pass

 

[NM Tom]

Once it's running right drive it like you stole it! If built right it's built right, and if it's built wrong it's built wrong....being easy on it for "x" miles wont fix any problems and the rings need seating right away.

 

[Just a Six??]

Once it's running right drive it like you stole it! If built right it's built right, and if it's built wrong it's built wrong....being easy on it for "x" miles wont fix any problems and the rings need seating right away.

Agreed! Lots of spurts of boost but no detonation. My builder says break in the cam & give it boost asap! He built it so he must know about breakin. His warranty!

 

[rob350]

once the cam is broken in, punch it.

 

[UncleDave]

It is so hard to resist the temptation, isn't it?

After a little break-in cruising and 12psi bursts, I bumped the boost up a little and plugged the solenoid back in. I was pulling out of Home Depot (my second home), sitting at the light, and was urged by pair of onlookers to 'punch it.' Well, I had to oblige. Smoked the one-legger halfway through 3rd gear before letting off and getting traction. I could get used to this! My transmission probably didn't like it though...

Is it me, or are these cars somewhat fickle? I had been driving for about 20 minutes, cruising normally, everything good, when the SES decided to come on and reported "ESC Monitor Error" on the PL (forgot the code, I wasn't recording) and it sounded like spark timing was off. I parked it for a half hour, after which it ran fine, and SES didn't return the rest of the day. I wonder if my coil or module are being affected by heat...

Sorry for throwing random stuff out there, just getting used to the car's quirks.
~Dave

 

[Just a Six??]

It is so hard to resist the temptation, isn't it?

After a little break-in cruising and 12psi bursts, I bumped the boost up a little and plugged the solenoid back in. I was pulling out of Home Depot (my second home), sitting at the light, and was urged by pair of onlookers to 'punch it.' Well, I had to oblige. Smoked the one-legger halfway through 3rd gear before letting off and getting traction. I could get used to this! My transmission probably didn't like it though...

Is it me, or are these cars somewhat fickle? I had been driving for about 20 minutes, cruising normally, everything good, when the SES decided to come on and reported "ESC Monitor Error" on the PL (forgot the code, I wasn't recording) and it sounded like spark timing was off. I parked it for a half hour, after which it ran fine, and SES didn't return the rest of the day. I wonder if my coil or module are being affected by heat...

Sorry for throwing random stuff out there, just getting used to the car's quirks.
~Dave

Make sure all your grounds are clean & tight or the cars will act weird & thats one of the main reasons why. Grounds are very important to these cars. Also the coil & mod when going bad will show signs slowly as they get hot. Cool back down & they are fine.

 

[UncleDave]

Thanks Just a Six... I checked, re-checked, and triple-checked all my ground connections and they are all clean & tight. Plus when I first start 'er up everything's fine. Things start happening after it's been running for a long time.

When the trouble begins, the exhaust tone suddenly gets much louder, a tell-tale sign something's amiss. A while after that, the code 42 appears, usually accompanied by roughness & stumbling. Things get progressively worse the longer I operate the vehicle. Today, it was accompanied by a code 12 (no ignition pulse detected from the module).

Allow things to cool off for an hour or so, and it runs normal again until things heat back up. That sounds to me like the module going bad. Maybe I'll see if I can find a known good one, and see what happens.

 

[UncleDave]

Crud...!

OK, tried a known good module & coil, and that's not it. This time the trouble started just up the street after idling for a long time in the driveway; the SES came on briefly when I hit the brake pedal, and the code 42 set shortly thereafter. Still smokes on startup and idles pig rich, dunno if that's related or not but now I have to check my plugs for fouling. I'm thinking bad gound somewhere, which is frustrating because all the ground connections are tight. There must be a break somewhere, and I have no idea where to start...

 

[NM Tom]

OK, tried a known good module & coil, and that's not it. This time the trouble started just up the street after idling for a long time in the driveway; the SES came on briefly when I hit the brake pedal, and the code 42 set shortly thereafter. Still smokes on startup and idles pig rich, dunno if that's related or not but now I have to check my plugs for fouling. I'm thinking bad gound somewhere, which is frustrating because all the ground connections are tight. There must be a break somewhere, and I have no idea where to start...

Where did you connect the main ground from the battery? Grounds may be tight, but did you strip the paint from the block where they are connected? Easy to forget when putting a new engine together.

 

[UncleDave]

Hi Tom, it's on the lower turbo bracket bolt. I'll double check to make sure it's scraped bare. Now if that doesn't make a difference, what else is there?

Researched code 42:

"During cranking, the timing is controlled by the ignition module while the ECM monitors the engine speed. When the engine speed exceeds 400 RPM, the ECM sends a BYPASS signal to the ignition module which switches the timing to ECM control. The ECM calculates what the timing should be then "tells" the ignition module via the EST circuit. The conditions for setting this code are:

•System in BYPASS mode but the ignition module is still controlling timing
- or -
•Engine speed > 600 RPM with no EST pulses (ECM controlled timing) going to the ignition module for 200 msec."

So, EST seems to be working fine with ECM pulses for a short time, then something happens and the module takes over timing, and the ECM throws a code. Looking at the possible causes:

1) BYPASS line is open or grounded, or 2) EST line is open or grounded - not sure how to test this

3) PROM or CALPACK not seated properly in the ECM - will check both

4) Poor connections between ignition module and ECM - Does this mean the connections at the module & ECM terminals themselves?

5) Poor routing of EST harness and/or poor quality ignition wires (EMI induced electrical noise) - Hmmm... routing is stock, ignition wires are new AC Delco 8mm but who knows...

6) Faulty or incorrect ignition module - replaced, no change

7) Faulty ECM - ?

Question is, with exception of the module, why would any of these only occur after driving a while? Would there be a code for the ECM if it was bad, or if the ECM harness connectors were loose?

Still baffled...

 

[NM Tom]

You mentioned earlier that you are running a PL (power logger) correct? Let me just throw this out, back in the "old" days of Direct Scan it was not uncommon to have a code 42 when the ribbon cable from the ECM edge connector and the laptop would encounter RFI. It would break up and run like crap for no reason and code 42. Restart the car and would be ok sometimes and then it might do it again randomly. Had a friend who had the problem bad and ended up resolving it by wrapping the ribbon cable with AL foil and grounding it. Have yet to hear a problem like this with the power logger, but troubleshooting is all about eliminating things so I would disconnect the edge connector and running it to see if there is any change. Electrical problems suck, fixing them are allot of trial and error....

 

[UncleDave]

Interesting... I'd really hate to unplug the PL and lose my ability to monitor (should have bought a ScanMaster)... The software sometimes indicates a loss of connection when monitoring, maybe it's loose, or the edge connector isn't completely clean?

I plan to reseat the prom and calpak, and check for poor B4 or D5 terminal connections or possible break in the BYPASS and EST circuits, those seem to be the only other tests for an intermittent problem... While it's open I may as well try unplugging the PL. If that doesn't help, I wonder if the ECM could be bad... I hope it turns out to be simple.

I don't mind troubleshooting, it's actually kind of interesting; it's just no fun if the car FUBAR's while driving!