New Comp Cam ductile rollers

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Re: more pressure?

Originally posted by Chuck Leeper
as the mass of the valvetrain is significantly reduced, thus lowering the chance of problems w/ the lifters floating at higher RPM's.

Meaning less spring pressure to accurately control the valves. 170# seat pressure seems like a bit much, no? Are you trying to compensate for the loss of spring pressure after they weaken a bit? How much rpm do you run Chuck?
 
Re: Re: more pressure?

Originally posted by Russ Merritt
Meaning less spring pressure to accurately control the valves. 170# seat pressure seems like a bit much, no? Are you trying to compensate for the loss of spring pressure after they weaken a bit? How much rpm do you run Chuck?

The added seat psi is not a problem, according the CC engineer we talked to.
These will, no doubt, lose some pressure after use. I'd hope not like the others did..:(
The engine was running in the mid 6000 range, then it slowed to 56-5700 at the max...
Kinda anxious to see if they will allow the 1300/1500 more that is mentioned.
The car is VERY consistent at 5700 and 133+mph. ET sucks due to the 215/65/15's on it...:D :D :D
 
Beehive springs were old news when Dave Vizard wrote his Chevy cylinder head and valvetrain engineering books. Main attraction at that time (in that context) was to install them big end up so you could use a larger diameter upper end for more spring force but keep a small base that would fit a stock spring pocket. Also with the conical shape you can run a larger diameter wire before coil bind. Anyway, just random trivia :-).
 
Re: Re: Re: more pressure?

Originally posted by Chuck Leeper

The car is VERY consistent at 5700 and 133+mph. ET sucks due to the 215/65/15's on it...:D :D :D

Hey Chuck, ya think its 'bout time ya got some slicks? ;) ;) :D
 
Thanks

For the people who have replied. Maybe these cams will be good for these cars since there is a problem with flat tappet cams wiping lobes. I don't see why they would not last if a regular flat tappet can be made to last and it is not made of billet. I am no cam expert but that is my thinking. I like the comp cam new rollers because they don't have a million parts like spacers,etc like the billet rollers have:) well i am putting my order in for a 212. Will the 212 roller have a lope at idle?Chris?:) ............thanks Bob
 
The 212 will not lope. In the defense of billet rollers, the spacers are a piece of cake to install. It's not hard at all.
 
Re: Thanks

Originally posted by Super6
For the people who have replied. Maybe these cams will be good for these cars since there is a problem with flat tappet cams wiping lobes. I don't see why they would not last if a regular flat tappet can be made to last and it is not made of billet. I am no cam expert but that is my thinking. I like the comp cam new rollers because they don't have a million parts like spacers,etc like the billet rollers have:) well i am putting my order in for a 212. Will the 212 roller have a lope at idle?Chris?:) ............thanks Bob

No, it won't. My other one, a 214 is as smooth as the line on Chuck's last brain scan. :D
 
Re: Re: Thanks

Originally posted by ChrisCairns
No, it won't. My other one, a 214 is as smooth as the line on Chuck's last brain scan. :D



LOL:D
 
I might be a little late but I just purchased a 210 roller from Cal Hartline which includes everything lifters, cam, springs & moly pushrods, valve seals. $798
 
I might be a little late but I just purchased a 210 roller from Cal Hartline which includes everything lifters, cam, springs & moly pushrods, valve seals. $798

Is this a billet roller set up and who is the cam made by? thanks Bob:)
 
it is the comp cam ductile setup. Cal uses the ductile setup in his stage 2 engine if I remember correctly. give him a call. Jack cotton sells the same setup for about $1000
 
what about a solid 114 lobe sep. 276/272 525/525 lift 221 inake 218exh??????give opinions- this cam has worked very well w/ a 112 ls and as a hyd......
 
Super 6-Do you have a part number for the 210 roller- cant find it only 212 s?
 
Originally posted by nicey623
it is the comp cam ductile setup. Cal uses the ductile setup in his stage 2 engine if I remember correctly. give him a call. Jack cotton sells the same setup for about $1000


Sorry, wrong info, from what you stated, I supply different parts with my kit and it can run as high as $920.00 depending on what springs and roller chain you want. Super6 listed far less parts in Cals kit than my kit offers, which also includes a special roller adjustable cam button.
 
jack, can i just buy the cam and lifters? whats that cost? i dont need a new chain or springs do i? i already got cc980 springs. iim not looking for a super hi rpm deal i just want the added reliability.


also, i was planning on either a 2143-224 or 218-224 hyd flat tappet cam for my 4.1 build. would the 212-212 roller work just as good or would i benefit for more duration. my feeling is since its not gonna be a really hi rpm motor (6000 max id say) i should keep the duration low and lift higher. whats the differences in lift b/w the 3 cams? dont rollers have quicker lift speed or something? is a 218-224 or 214-224 cam considered a real big race cam or is it good enough for what i want? i dont want the car to crap out over 5000 like the stock cam. id like a idle to 6000 cam that makes the most power. could comp make me a roller to those specs?
 
I have a 212 roller in mine, only a couple hundred miles since I dropped it in around October. (Damn road salt) So far so good. No lope at idle, but it does have a distinctive chop to the exhaust note. :D
 
If a ductile roller kit is about $920. and ATR sells billet roller kits for $895.- Whats the advantage in going with a dutile kit?
 
Originally posted by 49-blues
If a ductile roller kit is about $920. and ATR sells billet roller kits for $895.- Whats the advantage in going with a dutile kit?

Good question!

Personally i would go for the billet kit,they have now priced the ductile iron cams at basically the same price as billet!
Ready for this????????

Here goes...........i just pulled my 4th ductile iron cam and it has ware marks right on the lobe where the edge of the lifter rides, you can catch the indentations with your finger nail!

This is with about 500 miles..........if that because its not really a street driven car.

I did lose quite a bit of spring pressure using comp cams 941 valve springs so i might have been jumping the ramp on my cam and slaming the lifter back down on the lobe........i will have to take a closer look.
 
Who to answer first........ Ok Cheeseburger, first off your problem ductile cams have nothing in common with the new CC rollers. If you've lost 4 of them now, that sucks, maybe you better try doing something different next time around. Or maybe try some ketchup on dem lobes next time. ;)

49, good question about the ATR, try getting the ATR kit, I used many of them kits over the years, I liked the cam, it was ok. The rest of the kit was not to my liking, the springs suck, after many spring failures, I began throwing them in the trash and replacing with K-motion springs. The nose piece of the cam requires the S2 set up, difficult to work with.......

T-BUICKS, DAMN, TOO MANY QUESTIONS..... THOUGHT i WAS TALKING TO MY GIRLFRIEND FOR A MOMENT THERE... :D Yes, you can buy just the cam and lifters and use the original type double roller chain and gears, you will need to buy the springs though as the 980's are what we use for the hydraulic tappet cam. Both the 212 and the 206 are around 500 lift cams, we've used many of these cam with great results, street and strip, good idle, good power. You'll also need the new adjustable cam button. Give me a call at the shop if you want more info and pricing, I don't have it off the top of my head.
hope this helps,
 
No, i never said i have lost 4 of them...........not at all and they are NEW comp ductile iron cams!!!! Over the last few years i have tried 4 different grinds.
I have been using them before the public even knew about them!
And FWIW i called comp and they said the 941 valve springs are not roller valve springs.................funny because alot of the Lt1 cars are running them with hyd roller cams!

He said i need double springs for these ductile cams part #986-16 which requires you to machine the spring seats,not a bad idea to go to a larger spring diameter but i am not hot on grinding my roller rockers for clearence though!

Also you DO NOT need the adjustable cam button! Use a needle bearing cam button and it works just fine.

GO BILLET ROLLER AND BE DONE WITH IT!!!!!!!!
;)
 
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