You can type here any text you want

new fuel sending unit.....GM only or is reproduction ok?

Welcome!

By registering with us, you'll be able to discuss, share and private message with other members of our community.

SignUp Now!
Just be warned,if you use a HP pump the prong under the sender will be a weak link.

This is a brand new stainless,stock style hanger from a vender here. (pic) ...and look what happened. Yeah,I had to call a tow truck. This prong is UNDER the sending unit,IN the tank.

There is a 10 ga wire going straight to the pump now,thru a hole in the top of the sending unit.

gnfriedsndr.jpg
 

Most likely it would have.

(I hope Earl doesn't see this. When he hears of this idea,he gives me this look: :confused: ) I went a step further in making sure my pump gets power.

I took my Racetronics Hotwire and ran it in my car to my ashtray where a 30amp house breaker resides. (pic) No Chinese junk little toggles here!

The 10ga wire then runs from that breaker in the ashtray...directly to the pump. No relays...no sending unit bulkhead connector...

It goes like this: Alternator...to the Hotwire fuse mounted on the back of the alternator....to the 30amp ashtray breaker (which is used as a switch)....straight to the pump.

A word about the Racetronics Hotwire: I believe their wire is 10ga. Other so-called Hotwire kits are only 12ga.

Lots of thought was put into their fuse holder as well.

My start-up goes:
Breaker on...note fuel pressure rise.
Start car.
Note oil pressure and proper fuel pressure decrease when vac is given to FPR.

Shut down:
Breaker off. (after a few seconds,engine stumbles)
Key off.

If there is a problem,we know that diagnosing a fuel pump not running issue will be stone-simple.

This makes a fairly decent anti-theft device as well:

gnbrkr.jpg
 
We do not recommend running wires through the top of the hanger because:

There must be a vapor-proof entry point into the tank. This is why we use a sealed / tested connector with o-ring.
In-tank wiring should be fuel safe. This is why we use Teflon wire.
Most wire will wick the fuel up from the tank and allow it to exit because there are fine gaps between the insulation and the conductors.
 
. . . .
Most wire will wick the fuel up from the tank and allow it to exit because there are fine gaps between the insulation and the conductors. . . .

Good info. Would not have thought of that.
 
Good info. Would not have thought of that.

The solution is to solder and heat-shrink. Not rocket science.

When entering thru the top of the sending unit,use a good fuel resistant aviation sealant such as a dab of PRC. There are many gasoline resistant sealants out there.

Use a wire with gasoline resistant insulation if desired.

Me...I like the least amount of plugs and crimp-on connectors as possible.
 
PRC as well as most other adhesives will not stick to Teflon wire. Wires which will not allow wicking are not available over the counter.
Only Teflon heatshrink is compatible with gas/E85. PVC and Polyolefin heatshrink will dissolve/degrade in gas/E-85.

Our G7 hangers are designed with redundant power and ground feeds so the possibility of failure is pretty much non existent.
Our G7 intermediate harness has one 10Ga wire ultrasonically welded to two 14Ga wires which enter the bulkhead connector.
Ultrasonic welding provides a zero-resistance copper to copper bond without introducing tin/lead into the joint.
RX-USWELD-01.jpg

RX-USWELD-02.jpg
 
Last edited:
Back
Top