new setup what do you think?

[chiken]

i am coming into some money soon and i'm thinking of getting all of the following. i drive about 300 miles per month. i need some opinion's here. thanks

TE63
V2 front mount IC
3200 stall TC
50 lb injectors
aluminum radiator
ported heads
ported TB and plenum

 

[86brick]

Well...........

The 44 turbo with the stock D5 converter and 36lb injectors is the best combo for a daily driver IMO, but if you want to go faster the TE63, 3200 stall converter, and 50's should be okay. BTW, the V4 is a 21 row stock location stretch intercooler NOT a front mount IC and is better for a car that is mostly street driven, but if you want a FM the V2 from CAS is about the best front mount IC and the aluminum radiator and some dual spal fans should make a FMIC work for a daily driver. Also, if I was you I would consider some bigger injectors for the TE63 cause 50's are on the small side for that size turbo, but 55lb or bigger injectors will require a mod to the stock ECM which will cost more $$$ so it all depends....... I think a TE61 would work much better with the 50's and a 3200 stall converter and this along with the ported heads and ported TB and plenum would get you very low 11's and possibly high 10's if pushed. Just my .02

 

[azgn]

you don't specify your goals, but with that turbo , you should get more injector....at least 55's.....the V4 intercooler is a stock location I/C and will work fine to low 10's......only soft spot might be a cam.....you'll run out of revs before you run out of power....otherwise looks good

 

[chiken]

I don't know why I typed V4 I meant V2. I guess I've been looking at to many web sites. I would like to run in the ten second range. there is a mid 10 sec. big block chevelle with nitrous running around here that I would love to beat. How much is it to have my computer done so I can run bigger injectors? Any idea how the car would run on the street with 55lb or larger injectors?
thanks for the help and opinions.

 

[86brick]

Red Armstrong @ Quad Air Inc. will mod your stock ECM for bigger injectors for $135 last time I heard. If your goals are mid 10's I would definately get the TE-63 or a TE-45A turbo from John Craig and I would skip the 55's and get some 72lb injectors and Red can burn you a street chip and a race chip for them and they should work fine as I know a guy that has 83lb injectors and with one of Red's custom burned street chips and they run like the stock injectors from what he's told me. Another chip to consider would be the Max-Effort that Steve Yanklin sells cause many have said that his chips also work great with bigger injectors and the ME is almost like a DFI system with all of its awesome tune-ability.
HTH

 

[azgn]

you will see little, if any, difference in performance with your combo with a V2 vs V4....what you will see is cooling problems......to run "in the 10 sec range", you need a little more than you are proposing....like a stronger bottom end to include a girdle and/or steel caps...you will need a bigger turbo, better converter, built rear end (no c-clips), built transmission w/brake, slicks, modified suspension (at least boxed arms, new springs & bushings all around), roll bar, SFI balancer, really well ported iron heads, cam (preferably a billet roller), down pipe, bigger injectors, preferably a digital fuel management system, better fuel delivery system,etc, etc, etc

contrary to what many assume, the average GN is not gonna go out and run 10's with some bolt ons....12's maybe, but not 10's.....so be prepared to spend some $$, to break a lot of stuff, and wind up with a not very friendly to drive car....

you can believe me or not, but I would caution you to listen to those that have been there and no one else

You do have the advantage of good air and sea level, so it "may" take a little less




sure you want to take on that 10 sec big block???

 

[86brick]

Woody, I think the advantage of good air and sea level MUST make a difference considering there are at least 4 guys I know of that are running 10's with the stock bottom end, and bone stock rearend and suspension with just a passenger side air bag and a couple of other goodies. They all had ported heads and a bigger cam (all of them are flat tappet cams), bigger injectors, slicks, better fuel delivery system, and they all were using Red's chips! I definately agree that to be on the safe side a built bottom end with forged pistons and the 2 center steel main caps w/ a girdle is the best way to go along with a built tranny with a 9" 3500+ stall converter, but I don't think a trans-brake is needed and I think it's a bad idea cause trans-brake usually = trans-break unless you have a TH400 or a 200r4 tranny built with all the billet pieces which is NOT cheap!!! Most people I talk to down here are doing fine launching off the E-brake and some are able to get those great 60' times with the foot brake. It definately cost $$$ to run in the 10's as I've seen on this forum talking to guys like Woody and from talking to guys I know that are in the 10's down here. Most don't daily drive their TRs cause they have big 9" converters that don't get the best gas mileage. Also I agree that you should be prepared to break stuff cause in any car running in the 10's you will mostly like break something!!! BTW, if you want to run in the 10's also be prepared to spend money on some high octane race gas like the VP C16 that sells for $7.50 a gallon down here and then you will be changing those O2 sensors which cost about $30 a pop Racing is NOT cheap in any car!!!!