New to 200R4 Transmissions - Questions


New Member
Mar 13, 2010
Ok so to start off I have a 1991 740Turbo Volvo with a 200R4 behind it. It was built by a local in AZ who at this time I remember little to nothing about it as it came out of a running GN about 2 years ago when I purchased it. The trans has a 3000rpm stall non lockup from Road Runner Converters here in AZ along with it has a Manual trans brake. So far all has been perfect, The engine is a 2.3L 4cyl that was making around 350whp with the old transmission, my goal is around 450whp so I am sure this trans should do just fine.

A few basic questions - When putting an Engine with a 200R4 on the dyno are there any tips or tricks to get it to dyno correctly? I ask because on my old transmission You have to remove the kickdown cable and pull it out right before the kickdown spot and use a pair of vise grips to hold the cable in place without kicking down. Is there something similar to do for the 200R4?

Next is how much power can a typical Built transmission hold in 4th gear? I ask because on my old transmission there is only a single clutch and steel for 4th as it is an OD only gear. I had killed 4th a few times by loading it up to much in that gear. I ask because on highway driving very light throttle will make boost and I do not want to make to much power in 4th if there is a major risk to damaging it, I can either set boost lower or just make it a point to downshift to gain speed.

Trans cooler wise I have a large Tube and Fin cooler with a large fan that is always on. Should this be enough to keep the trans cool or would I be better off going to a B&M Cooler with the built in fan and thermostat. The car will be daily driven and see 40-50 Passes a year at the strip. With my current setup I think I cooked my last trans from hot lapping and the cooler not being able to deal with the heat. If I take a bit more of a break vs making a pass and heading right back to the front of the line I should be fine. Either way I am thinking a Trans Temp Gauge should be next on my list. If so what is the warning Temp for these trans to not let it get over? The Trans already has a deep aluminum pan so the extra fluid should help.

What is the Max RPM most people feel safe rev'ing these transmissions to? My engine currently has a 7100rpm limiter that at the track I like to use as I do make power all the way up to 7000pm. Once I have a fresh engine and head I do not plan on reving much over that as this is still a 70's tractor motor design.

Thank You very much for your time. As I can think of more questions I have on this trans I will make sure to ask.
Welcome to the forum.

As for the TV cable, here is an adjustment procedure:

Here is a check for proper TV cable adjustment from the factory service manual:
1. Install oil pressure gauge [assume this means transmission line pressure].
2. Install engine tachometer.
3. Warm up engine to proper operating temperature.
4. Run engine at 1000 RPM.
5. Apply the parking brake [probably should be done as step 1 and block the wheels also].
6. Place gear selector in "PARK" and note oil pressure.
7. Place gear selection in "DRIVE". Oil pressure should be equal but not more than 10 psi higher than in "PARK".
8. Bring engine RPM up to 1400. If oil pressure does not increase, adjust TV cable. Refer to TV Cable Adjustment.

Maybe a permanently mounted transmission line pressure gauge in the car is a good idea.

Are you going to use an inertia dyno or a static load dyno? Are we tuning or just trying to create torque and horsepower graphs? As for what gear to use when dyno both EFI University classes, we used a static load dyno and we were tuning. We used the gear that gave us a 1:1 coupling (3rd in the 2004R). I don't like to put a big load on an overdrive gear (4th in the 2004R).

I am open to corrections / additions.

Hopefully someone else can help you with the rest of your questions.

Paul Lohr
Stock 4th/OD clutch should have 2-Frictions & 2-Steels and 1-Pressure Plate. It can be upgraded to 3 or 4 Frictions for increased holding capacity. Requires machining the apply Piston etc...

Trans Temps >>
Dexron VI fluid is best.

For high rpm use the Pump should be upgraded.
A good Shift Kit as well, such as CK Performance's Shift Recalibration Kit.

The Stacked Plate or Plate & Fin type coolers are more efficient than Tube & Fin types. If you're only using an external cooler, it should be as large as possible. Temp gauge is always a good idea.
Tru-Cool HD or Industial size >>
The LPD's are self regulating.

More TV cable Info:
3-Parts >>