New to carb turbo, ton of ?'s, what did I buy

[rollinrust]

Guys, I am new to the carb turbo game. I found the beforeblack.net website and it was a wealth of info and then it directed me to this site. First of all i bought this little gem on ebay . Sorry couldn't paste url until I had 4 posts so here is the item number.300178769114 . The picture attached is a guy on an old hotrod website that did the same with an old inline 6. I have a few questions that I am sure you guys can help with. I would really appreciate any help. I will number out some questions and if you can help with any please fill in the blanks with numbered lines on your reply. THANK YOU!!!!

1. First of is the auction correct, is this a 79-80 regal set up?
2. The unit was dropped and the wastegate actuator was FUBAR'd, i can't find this model for replacement. Can I use a single port actuator oppsosed to the dual port that is on it? I am going to run low boost 6-9 psi. Can someone please point me in the direction for a exact replacement?
3. It had no carb with it. The guy on the build I mentioned used the dime a dozen 600 edelbrock square bore carb. I would like to do the same, but after reading the b4black homepage I see the info about the powervalve on the stock quadrajet. Will a non turbo carb really run that horrible? I saw some t-types on ebay but very pricy!! I am honestly doing this for the wow factor, I don't expect 400hp out of a fancy tractor motor. If I have to spend the money on the t-type quadf I will but I would rather use a cheap edlebrock or a predator carb I already have.
4. Does this turbo require a lot of oil pressure? The old 261 has some oil port I can tap into but the oil volume is not great.
5.I imagine the housings can be clocked at different positions but i thought i would ask.
6. I have had injected cars with blow off valves but I was thinking that this would be bad on a carb set up because the blow off air would have a fuel mixture. Is this a no no on these set ups?

Sorry for the novel but any help would be very appreciated!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[rollinrust]

Here is a pic of my purchase if you didn't want to go to the ebay item number

 

[dr_frankenstein]

OK.... lets take a look at what we got.

1. First of is the auction correct, is this a 79-80 regal set up?

by the looks of it, it is indeed a 79-80 unit. But if its going on a slow spinning inline 6 you would be better off with an 83 unit.

2. The unit was dropped and the wastegate actuator was FUBAR'd, i can't find this model for replacement. Can I use a single port actuator oppsosed to the dual port that is on it? I am going to run low boost 6-9 psi. Can someone please point me in the direction for a exact replacement?

I carry replacements. they are used, but they work. its hard to find originals, and the new replacement ones do not fit the size of the compressor as they were intended for a "B" size housing.

3. It had no carb with it. The guy on the build I mentioned used the dime a dozen 600 edelbrock square bore carb. I would like to do the same, but after reading the b4black homepage I see the info about the powervalve on the stock quadrajet. Will a non turbo carb really run that horrible? I saw some t-types on ebay but very pricy!! I am honestly doing this for the wow factor, I don't expect 400hp out of a fancy tractor motor. If I have to spend the money on the t-type quadf I will but I would rather use a cheap edlebrock or a predator carb I already have.

While the Quadrajet is a favorite amongst many here, it isnt the only choice. What it boils down to is the need for a boost referenced power valve. from what I understand edelbrocks cannot be set up this way, and I have no data on the preditor. either the factory Q-jet or a holley/demon would be your best bet. I have core Q-jets in stock.

4. Does this turbo require a lot of oil pressure? The old 261 has some oil port I can tap into but the oil volume is not great.

these units generally dont use tooo much oil, so im sure your mopar will provide enough pressure for the speed the unit will turn. However I can stress a well designed drain. needs to be a smooth shot to allow a good drain, and prevent the cartrigde from flooding.

5.I imagine the housings can be clocked at different positions but i thought i would ask.

Yes the housings can be clocked, but just pay attention that the drain for the cartridge point down.

6. I have had injected cars with blow off valves but I was thinking that this would be bad on a carb set up because the blow off air would have a fuel mixture. Is this a no no on these set ups?

there is no need for a BOV, as there is no point in the engine where there will be a rise in pressure in the intake tract. a draw thru doesnt encounter the same spikes as blow thru. an exception would be a POP-OFF valve, which is only there to protect the turbo in the event of a massive back-fire. much like Roots Blowers have.

I hope that answers your questions! feel free to ask others!

I love what your doing by the way, very very very cool.....

A.j.

 

[dr_frankenstein]

oh yea... please tell me this is not a RAT ROD....

i went through that phase.... and if this is what you have in mind, PM me.... you need more shock factor.

A.j.

 

[rollinrust]

Thanks a million for that detailed info. I sent a PM about the parts. I will check the utube vid out when I get home.....work blocks it.

I am guessing from the info on the website that the 83 turbo you mentioned had a smaller turbine housing for the gas crisis years and that would spool faster on my low rpm motor? I saw that guys build and how easy it looked and i just bought the one pictured on ebay on a whim with little research.

I am just picking up this motor from the machine shop next week. I figured they would love a turbo because the stock compression is only 7.5: 1.

 

[dr_frankenstein]

Thanks a million for that detailed info. I sent a PM about the parts. I will check the utube vid out when I get home.....work blocks it.

I am guessing from the info on the website that the 83 turbo you mentioned had a smaller turbine housing for the gas crisis years and that would spool faster on my low rpm motor? I saw that guys build and how easy it looked and i just bought the one pictured on ebay on a whim with little research.

I am just picking up this motor from the machine shop next week. I figured they would love a turbo because the stock compression is only 7.5: 1.

exactly on the turbine. The 83 had the smaller .63 turbine vs the .82, which would be a better choice on your low RPM motor, actually, jumping up to a 86/87 turbine, would be the bees knees! thats an even better turbine.

As for your compression, you should be well off at 7.5:1 - though there are many opinions on this when it comes to draw-thru systems, I myself prefer to run in the high 9s - to low 10s range.

A.j.

 

[usetaboost]

NEAT!

 

[mat231v6]

oh yea... please tell me this is not a RAT ROD....

i went through that phase.... and if this is what you have in mind, PM me.... you need more shock factor.

A.j.

whats your more shock factor?

 

[charlief1]

Welcome aboard Rust. Aj took over for me this morning because my time has been stretched lately. Thanks bud. He pretty much sumed it up for you but the reason the E-brock carbs can't be used is because you can't isolate the power valve. It has 2 of them for the primary and the passages are are all internal. You can make the power valve isolated on the Q-jet and Holley for a boost refferenced carb.

 

[WarWagon]

I keep looking at that inliner and thinking man that is some sweet low tec oldschool it's even sporting an external wastegate and that s h i t t y Edel carb. What's holding all that up there any was ? lol

 

[dr_frankenstein]

whats your more shock factor?

mechanical injection drawthru.

A.j.

 

[panic]

The old 261?

AFAICT, the slant engine pictured, as he said, isn't his but an example.
The 261 is a Chevrolet truck and Canadian Pontiac L6 OHV made 1954-63, 3.75" × 3.9375", a descendant of the 235" "stovebolt" motor. This is a very low speed engine with only 3 × 1-1/2" siamese intake ports and 4 small exhaust ports.
The 261 has external connection to a filter, but not all of them are full-flow (some are bypass only). You can increase your system pressure with the usual shim, but you already have the biggest pump that fits. In the later engines, you can raise the systemic pressure a bit by blocking oil pressure from the cam bearings to the tappet gallery (where is was needed for hydraulic lifters).

You're confusing me on the QJ: which one has a power valve? The primary economy system is a metering rod and vacuum piston.

 

[charlief1]

The vacuum valve is the power valve just like an Edelbrock has 2 the Q-jet has one.

 

[rollinrust]

The old 261?

AFAICT, the slant engine pictured, as he said, isn't his but an example.
The 261 is a Chevrolet truck and Canadian Pontiac L6 OHV made 1954-63, 3.75" × 3.9375", a descendant of the 235" "stovebolt" motor. This is a very low speed engine with only 3 × 1-1/2" siamese intake ports and 4 small exhaust ports.
The 261 has external connection to a filter, but not all of them are full-flow (some are bypass only). You can increase your system pressure with the usual shim, but you already have the biggest pump that fits. In the later engines, you can raise the systemic pressure a bit by blocking oil pressure from the cam bearings to the tappet gallery (where is was needed for hydraulic lifters).
QUOTE]


Mine is the first year 1954 and it is not the full flow system. It just had a ****ty little 3/8" rubber line that shot a small amount of the oil through a remote filter housing and then returned to another passage in the block. I was going to actually use this to feed oil to the turbo and return it to the block.

 

[panic]

That port is normally an open end back to the pan, not back to the pressure system. The only pressure is the line size, and I suspect that the volume is too low for a turbo. This is a 1/8-27 NPT thread, yes? JMO - return it to the pan using a much bigger line, don't use the original return port.
The 1955-63 Melling M45 pump is 23% larger than yours, and it's a bolt-in (I think) but you have to change the pick-up etc.
You can convert yours to full-flow but it's a lot of work, see the article here:
Stovebolt Stroker Chevy Six - Part 2 - BLock Cleaning, Full Flow Oil Conversions

 

[fc227]

I think it is cool !