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Lee Thompson

New Member
Joined
May 24, 2001
Messages
3,184
Had the $ pit out this evening--this is not the first time this has happened---but the most embarassing. Shut the car off to order @ a drive through. Would not start--crank but no fire--after 5-6 trys if fires and runs fine. What I noticed this time is the service eng. lite flashes when cranking but not firing. When it cranked and fired the lite did not flash. And yes I am letting the green lite slowly die before trying again. What is this telling me. Thanks
 
it will do this with low battery voltage. check all of your power connections. i hotwired the key on power to the computer and never had this problem again.
 
Lee I had a real similar issue with my bank to bank, like others have stated, this voltage issue. the wire that fed the ecm dropped to 9 volt during cranking.
 
Lee I had a real similar issue with my bank to bank, like others have stated, this voltage issue. the wire that fed the ecm dropped to 9 volt during cranking.

What did you do to remedy the situation......thanks
 
What did you do to remedy the situation......thanks


sometimes the ign switch starts to degrade and lower the key on voltage or even drop out all together during cranking. an ign switch change usually will fix this. i have a lot of accessories that use key on 12+ so i ran a direct wire to the battery with a relay inline. i have only had this problem when using a caspers adapter box. the classic fast and bs3 have a relay for this in the adapter harness.
 
update

I checked my main ground that I had run back through the fire wall and run a self tapping screw through the eyelet and into the pass. side inner fender. It was not the tightest. I could move the eyelet from side to side. Redid it a little more professional way. Did not drive the car today. Will reply when I am SURE.
 
I checked my main ground that I had run back through the fire wall and run a self tapping screw through the eyelet and into the pass. side inner fender. It was not the tightest. I could move the eyelet from side to side. Redid it a little more professional way. Did not drive the car today. Will reply when I am SURE.

Hey Lee,

Did your redone ground fix the problem ?

George
 
Not

Hey Lee,

Did your redone ground fix the problem ?

George

Just so happens that Cal called just before I left for track yesterday. First time to drive car since redoing ground. It did it again @ trans shop on way to track. Cal said I will need to hotwire the + feed to XFI unit. Said he has heard of this with adapter harness. Seems the adapter harness uses all the factory wireing and this can lead to enough voltage drop while cranking.
 
Yep. And the factory fuse box will not always supply the proper voltage while cranking so you have to be careful using the ign ports in the factory fuse box. I bought an 8 circuit fuse panel from Painless to power XFI and a few other systems on the car. It wired directly to the battery and uses stock style fuses.
 
Yep. And the factory fuse box will not always supply the proper voltage while cranking so you have to be careful using the ign ports in the factory fuse box. I bought an 8 circuit fuse panel from Painless to power XFI and a few other systems on the car. It wired directly to the battery and uses stock style fuses.


Hey Dusty,

I have a similiar but different situation with my XFI. The car seems to run fine but periodically at idle, it'll just stop running as if I turned off the ignition. Once the LED's on the XFI go out, it'll start back up, albeit with a little coaxing.

I'm running a 16 volt system so it seems highly unlikely that low voltage would be the issue but I am running everything through the original old ignition switch. I've been chasing this little gremlin for a while now and I thought the change from 12 volt to 16 volt would solve the issue. I hasn't.:confused:

Do you think the ignition switch might still be the problem ??

George in Alberta
 
Hey Dusty,

I have a similiar but different situation with my XFI. The car seems to run fine but periodically at idle, it'll just stop running as if I turned off the ignition. Once the LED's on the XFI go out, it'll start back up, albeit with a little coaxing.

I'm running a 16 volt system so it seems highly unlikely that low voltage would be the issue but I am running everything through the original old ignition switch. I've been chasing this little gremlin for a while now and I thought the change from 12 volt to 16 volt would solve the issue. I hasn't.:confused:

Do you think the ignition switch might still be the problem ??

George in Alberta

Without sitting there with a volt meter on the wire and waiting for the issue to happen, it's hard to say. It does sound like it's loosing power to the box though. I'd run a separate fused wire straight from the battery to see if it stops the problem.
 
this has happened to me too
with as many ign switch problems i see at the dealer i think i fresh one will be a nice replacement for the 22y/o one im using now...
-dan
 
Without sitting there with a volt meter on the wire and waiting for the issue to happen, it's hard to say. It does sound like it's loosing power to the box though. I'd run a separate fused wire straight from the battery to see if it stops the problem.


(quote) I'd run a separate fused wire straight from the battery to see if it stops the problem

I'm going to go to a dedicated ignition/ starter switch Panel direct from the battery. I'm waiting for one to arrive from Longacre Racing Products as we speak. Hopefully, this will clear up the problem. Next winter season, I plan to re-wire the whole system thru a Painless Switch Panel.

Do we ever stop spending money ?:rolleyes:

George
 
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