New turbo & stall selection?????

[grey1]

I just purchased a fresh motor(not in yet). It has stock heads with a 3angle cut on the valves. Conley's spec 1 cam. I have been running a ta49 w/ 43.5lbs. 2500 stall(in the past). I also just purchased 57lb Siemens from Racetronix. I'm going to get a converter & bigger turbo. I like the 49 on the street w/ alky. With my heads not being ported,(for now) what would make a killer stall & turbo for my combo? I also have a te44 turbo w/ 36lbs. I would like to try a big shaft turbo. Keeping in mind the short block does not have forged pistons, main caps, or girdle, is there a hp sweet spot for this block? I've heard not to exceed 550 hp. I would be extremely happy with 500 hp. Thanks, Dave
What stall & turbo without porting the heads?????

 

[salvageV6]

3000-3200 Stall Lockup

Precision, PTS Extreme billet, whatever...

66 ball bearing turbo from Cottons

And in a year the ported heads.

Rock and roll....

 

[49-blues]

If i were you with the motor being out of the car-i would get some good ported iron heads like champions when it is much easier to change and no coolant or liquids in the motor,put in the three front billet caps and have someone put in a good cam like a 204/214 sealed power. Then after it installed you ll have a much bigger choice of what components you can run. you could run a te-63-1 or pte-54 or even a te-45a for an easy 500 hp at 24 psi to help keep the motor together. the 57 at 80% are good for about 550 hp-so you re good there. then go with a 3200-3500 stall.

 

[Reginald West]

I would use a 64 Dual Ball Bearing turbo from Innovative and 3000 to 3200 9 inch non lock up converter. Some guys will say use the lock up but I think thats a personal choice.

REG

 

[hang10]

I would be interested in buying your old 49 or 44 turbo and injectors.If you sell them drop me a e-mail!! kurt

 

[grey1]

Guys,
I don't know much about the ball bearing turbos or GT turbos. If it were you would you do the heads??? I don't want to put on aluminum heads and have them leak. Or ported irons and have to change them out for aluminum. I do like the idea of using steel caps with this motor. I bought this motor from L.C. PP and has already been balanced and blueprinted. Do I have to have that done again?? Line boring and all that???? With steel Caps?? Thanks Dave HELP ME PLEASE

 

[49-blues]

what you could save on not buying a ball bearing turbo-you could afford to do the caps. theres alot of guys running 10 s with the champion irons so doubt you would need to change them for irons unless you re building a stage 2 track car-for the street/strip-i d go with the proven irons.

 

[grey1]

PORT THE HEADS?????

 

[salvageV6]

Sure, keep the turbo you have and port the heads.

Still need those injectors however.

Go with a 3200 stall or 3000 and then get a bigger turbo next year.

You may not even want one.

I went with the big turbo and no heads since I had no intentions of pulling the motor.

Your motor is already out, do the heads.

 

[grey1]

O.K. I bought some ported & polished heads. Stay with the te44 and get like a 3000 stall? Then I can change turbos later? Or, is a 3k stall going to limit my turbo options later? Is a 3k stall too much for a TE44? Thanks, Dave

 

[blackshoebox]

Originally posted by grey1
O.K. I bought some ported & polished heads. Stay with the te44 and get like a 3000 stall? Then I can change turbos later? Or, is a 3k stall going to limit my turbo options later? Is a 3k stall too much for a TE44? Thanks, Dave

If you are going to buy a converter now, by the converter that will support you future plans for a bigger turbo. I would suggest a 3200-3500 stall in either a lock-up or non lock-up, depending on your taste. If you have the TE-44. with ported heads, and this converter the thing will spool like crazy, and be a blast to drive. And if you wanna get a little more out of your 44, you can always go up in the a/r housing size to .82 or .85..