Newbie kind of Trani Question

[zeus87gn]

Could use a little assistance. I am not a newbie to automotive work as I have pulled a few motors, replaced clutches, various parts, etc. After all, I own a Jeep and a Buick.

Anyway, I have an engine pulling job on the side and the one thing I have never done is separate an auto trani from a motor. It is a FWD car, but I would think the basic idea would be the same regardless of mfg or configuration.

Is it as simple as I am thinking? Remove the bell housing bolts and the input shaft comes right out of the converter? Is there anything I should be aware of when separating the two? Maybe a spring loaded somethingoranother I have to keep tension on?

Any advice is greatly appreciated and encouraged.
Thanks

 

[zeus87gn]

Anybody got any ideas?

 

[77 cruiser]

I guess depends on what it is. The only one FWD that I've done was a Escort.
The pump drive went all the way through the trans, the pump was on the outside by the dr. side.

I'd say you should get an ATSG service manual for the specific model you plan on working on, plus a vehicle service maual. The ATSG manuals are only 15 - 20 bucks & the vehicle maual you should be able to borrow from a dealer.

Hope that helps, but prolly not what you wanted to hear.

 

[Blazer406]

.......................Is it as simple as I am thinking? Remove the bell housing bolts and the input shaft comes right out of the converter? Is there anything I should be aware of when separating the two? Maybe a spring loaded somethingoranother I have to keep tension on?

Any advice is greatly appreciated and encouraged.
Thanks

On most cars.... you also have the torque converter to flexplate (flywheel) bolts (automatic cars).

 

[zeus87gn]

I will be getting a Haynes manual today and check it. This is a late 90's model 'Yoda Camary with the 2.0 - 4 banger. Needs a rebuild on the motor, but trani is fine. Don't plan on messing with it unless I need to.

I was really just needing to know if I could separate the converter from the trani or should I unbolt the converter from the flexplate and then separate the trani from the block.

And if I did separate the converter from the trani, what should I watch out for?

Thanks for the input.

 

[Blazer406]

If you are pulling the engine, seperate the converter from the flexplate.You might damage it otherwise. Pull the engine w/o the converter attached. Leave it engaged in the tranny.

 

[zeus87gn]

Yep, the book tells me to take the converter from the flexplate also.
That is what I will do.

Now all I need is a hoist. Anybody got one for sale cheap in SE Ga?

 

[zeus87gn]

Ok, I am about to the point to install the fresh rebuild and the same trani.
I would like some more input if anybody has any.

Here is what is going on: When I separated the engine and trani, the torque converter stuck to the flexplate and came out of the trani. Yes, the flexplate bolts were removed. I took it off and stuck it back on the input shaft and it seemed to go right into place.

I will put a new seal in there b/w the converter and trani housing, but my question is this: Is there any alignment I need to be concerned with? The neck on the converter has 2 notches in it, opposite from each other. I think it may have some purpose, but I don't want to mess anything up.

Thanks in advance for any and all input.

 

[A. G. Olphart]

Since you have two notches, you also have two tangs where the notches aren't; they drive the transmission's pump. While sliding the converter into the transmission you need to rotate the TC to be sure the tangs are engaged in the pump rotor. (When the drive tangs are in the rotor where they belong, the torque converter sits more deeply in the bell housing than when they are just sitting on top of the rotor).
If a person tries to tighten things together without having the TC properly seated, stuff breaks.

 

[zeus87gn]

Since you have two notches, you also have two tangs where the notches aren't; they drive the transmission's pump.

I guessed it was something like that. I have heard about the trani pump and figured it had to be run by engine rotation. Gear rotation wouldn't do it.

Thanks for the info AG.

What about the input shaft spline into the TC? If I look into the TC, there seems to be at least two sets of teeth that the spline is to fit into. Will these just slip into place?

 

[A. G. Olphart]

If you install the converter while gently rotating it, everything should go into place. The difference in converter seating depth between right and wrong is about the depth of the tangs, and thus should be obvious. Play at it a while, and you'll see what goes.

With the converter fully seated, as the engine and bell housing come together there should be a small gap between the converter and the flex plate... can't specify exactly, maybe 1/16" to 1/8"? more? If the converter isn't properly seated, converter and flex plate will hit well before the bell housing and block touch.

You're welcome!

 

[zeus87gn]

Yep, that make perfect sense.
If the new seal shows up today, I'll be doing the install this weekend.
Thanks again!