Newbie pulling a engine?
- Thread starter V8killR4U
- Start date
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Pulling it out isnt hard, its putting it back together (THE RIGHT WAY) that is a
B!$@#. A chiltin or hayes manual wont help you unless you are doing suspension or brake work. Anything that is 3.8 turbo specific (ie engine removal) is not going to be covered. They only cover the 305 and NA 3.8 removal
This should get you on your way...Engine Removal
Good luck,
BOOSTD
B!$@#. A chiltin or hayes manual wont help you unless you are doing suspension or brake work. Anything that is 3.8 turbo specific (ie engine removal) is not going to be covered. They only cover the 305 and NA 3.8 removal
This should get you on your way...Engine Removal
Good luck,
BOOSTD
As boosted said pulling it is fairly easy. Just make sure everything is disconnected (ground wires, hoses ect). Also you will need an engine crane with a long reach. Make sure you have help to guide the engine, it's diffulcult to do by yourself.
Re-installing it is more difficult; you will defiantly need a helper.
Just take your time.
Don
Re-installing it is more difficult; you will defiantly need a helper.
Just take your time.
Don
- Joined
- Jul 20, 2001
- Messages
- 2,205
DIY. I used a engine leveling tool, a floor jack for the transmission and a pry bar. If you pull the trans and engine as a unit, it may be easier to install as a unit. I left my trans in (the car), but used a floor jack to raise it as high as it would go. When installing the engine, I tilted the engine slightly down in the front (so the back end was facing slightly up). When lowering the engine, get the motor mounts close, you can use a pry bar to adjust the position (especially if you're using rubber mounts). Don't pry between the block and the mount and pry just enough to move the mounts. When close, begin to level the engine and lower the trans. Both the trans and engine should fall together. Yes a helper would have been nice,but I was alone for both my 383 Chevy (for the Chevelle) and the Buick engine. Never had a problem. The factory motor mounts have quite a bit of flex. I would advise taking the time to mark wire and vacuum hose postions before removing the engine. Also, you want to stand the hood straight up or remove it (I stood it straight up). Personally, unless it's tranmission rebuild, body and paint, front end alignment or exhaust work, I'm the only one who repairs my car.
I did mine myself last winter...first time and 100% alone. I first dropped the trans then removed the engine seperately.
If you can secure the hood vertically just un-bolt one end of the shock absorber like hood supports and lift the hood to vertical and tie it off....saves hood alignment and possible damage.
I took lots of digital pictures showing wire and line routings and tagged each electrical connection...made going back together fairly straightforward.
Bob
If you can secure the hood vertically just un-bolt one end of the shock absorber like hood supports and lift the hood to vertical and tie it off....saves hood alignment and possible damage.
I took lots of digital pictures showing wire and line routings and tagged each electrical connection...made going back together fairly straightforward.
Bob
EASY - just get out there and DO IT! This is how you really learn, not by reading some book by the fire. Aint that hard, just remember how it went together. My engine comes out in < 2 hours tops. The only thing i would recommend though is a nice long bar for removing tranny bolts and an impact gun. TEAR IT UP!!!
