NGK 5430 BCR8ES found

[TTA308]

Thanks, gap is 28 at about the same on boost, what works good on cutting the strap?

 

[TIMINATOR]

Hold the plug gently in vice by the hex,(I do it with the chamber side up,) put a thin piece of metal between the center and side electrode so you don't nick the center electrode, (a short chunk of hacksaw blade works well) and cut the side electrode with a dremel tool cut off wheel. A die grinder wheel is too cumbersome to do a clean cut. Wear eye protection! The side electrodes are hard and you will probably break and/or wear out a few of those cut off wheels doing 6 plugs. Indexing the plug with the open end pointing toward the exhaust valve will also gain a few H.P. or so, and help prevent detonation too.
You also need a small file to remove the burrs from the side electrode in the gap and all around the tip. You don't want any sharp edges on the side electrode at all.
The first time you do this, it will probably take you an hour to do all 6 plugs! Buy a few spares, you may also want to practice on old plugs first!
Gap plugs at .025" if you plan to run over 15 lbs. of boost!
TIMINATOR

 

[Mr.Spool]

Thanks, gap is 28 at about the same on boost, what works good on cutting the strap?

What tim said
And you have the wrong gap
That's the spit and spudder
.24 is what you need

 

[TTA308]

Thanks guys, not sure what if any impact it would have but i have Fac irons ported with 1.90 intake and 1.60 exh valves..

 

[TIMINATOR]

.024 to .028 is 17%
Yer wife is 130 lbs. she adds 17% to that, now she's 152 lbs. Do you care?
17% of 6" is another inch. Think she cares?
Greg says .024.
I pulled my plugs and regapped them from .026 to .024. Yer call.call....
Yer not gonna be fast unless yer anal!
And thats short for analyze!
I don't know everything, but I do know who to ask....
TIMINATOR

 

[Silver Ghost]

I have to wonder whether smaller and smaller spark plug gaps increases the tendency for plugs to carbon foul. This might be especially true when our cars are driven in colder weather and stop and go city driving? I widened the gap on my NGK 5430 BCRES plugs from .024 to .030 and there was less carbon fouling when driving in normal conditions. However, if I was only racing the car, the gaps would be tightened up.

​

 

[Mr.Spool]

I have to wonder whether smaller and smaller spark plug gaps increases the tendency for plugs to carbon foul. This might be especially true when our cars are driven in colder weather and stop and go city driving? I widened the gap on my NGK 5430 BCRES plugs from .024 to .030 and there was less carbon fouling when driving in normal conditions. However, if I was only racing the car, the gaps would be tightened up.

​

I have run them down to .18 with no fouling car was street driven alot

 

[TIMINATOR]

Carbon fouling is a symptom of poor oil control, be it from improper cylinder wall tolerances, machining, honing, ring tension, style, piston clearance, valve guide clearance, selection, stem seal type, PVC design,(8.1 GMC truck engines come to mind), cam duration, overlap, and over oiling/pressure, and other issues. There are way too many variables to draw any conclusions as to spark gap causing plug fouling.
TIMINATOR

 

[TTA308]

You also need a small file to remove the burrs from the side electrode in the gap and all around the tip. You don't want any sharp edges on the side electrode at all.

So far the hand file works best for me, I'm dangerous with power tools ..

 

[TIMINATOR]

A pin file set works for me, and I've done zillions of 'em.

 

[TIMINATOR]

As the result of a "hi tech LANDLINE" phone call, I will add the possibility of carbon fouling as a result of an over rich fuel/air ratio to my previous carbon fouling post: it is possible to have carbon fouled plugs as a result of an overrich (usually, blubbering rich) fuel/air mixture at cruise or light thgrottle operation. I neglected to post that since I erroneously assumed most on here knew that, and also assumed that peeps here also know that a blast or two at a high power/RPM, correct WOT fuel/air operation will burn off those lighter deposits, where as the heavier oil fouling will not usually clear.
Oil fouling is usually shiny and wet deposits with larger almost sand like particles, whereas rich fuel is typically a dry sooty accumulation.
Are we good now?
TIMINATOR

 

[outatime86]

What a load of great tech info in this thread! I just learned about side gapping plugs. On my fresh new motor I'ma run the 5430 BCR8ES with my full port alum heads with new springs seated at 170, I'll do the side gapping and gap the plug at 24. The motor's whole bottom end is now forged so 30psi with a Norbs tune, alky and pump 91 ALL DAY! MY right foot will be my traction controller.

Can't wait to go have fun.

 

[Mr.Spool]

What a load of great tech info in this thread! I just learned about side gapping plugs. On my fresh new motor I'ma run the 5430 BCR8ES with my full port alum heads with new springs seated at 170, I'll do the side gapping and gap the plug at 24. The motor's whole bottom end is now forged so 30psi with a Norbs tune, alky and pump 91 ALL DAY! MY right foot will be my traction controller.

Can't wait to go have fun.

Read post 70
I was talking what plug I run on irons and aluminum heads

 

[outatime86]

Running a FAST bank to bank and aluminum heads. I'll try both the NGK and the brisk, at this point I'll start with the NGKs since I have them already. For the brisk it's part # dr10s? Just waiting for my heads to come back from the machine shop n can begin assembling the new motor.

Curious to see the data logs with fuel correction, AFR and VE tables for both plugs using the same tune.

 

[Pronto]

Hold the plug gently in vice by the hex,(I do it with the chamber side up,) put a thin piece of metal between the center and side electrode so you don't nick the center electrode, (a short chunk of hacksaw blade works well) and cut the side electrode with a dremel tool cut off wheel. A die grinder wheel is too cumbersome to do a clean cut. Wear eye protection! The side electrodes are hard and you will probably break and/or wear out a few of those cut off wheels doing 6 plugs. Indexing the plug with the open end pointing toward the exhaust valve will also gain a few H.P. or so, and help prevent detonation too.
You also need a small file to remove the burrs from the side electrode in the gap and all around the tip. You don't want any sharp edges on the side electrode at all.
The first time you do this, it will probably take you an hour to do all 6 plugs! Buy a few spares, you may also want to practice on old plugs first!
Gap plugs at .025" if you plan to run over 15 lbs. of boost!
TIMINATOR

I know it's been over a year since this post but do you happen to have any pictures of your side gapping?

 

[TIMINATOR]

I leave 2/3rds of the center electrode uncovered and round it as looking straight down into the center electrode. That gives a bit more spark "window" to the chamber and it also has less area on the side electrode to pick up heat (that helps with preignition). Take that fine pin file and make sure there are no burrs on the side electrode, (same reason.)
It's all of the small things added together that wins races and keeps yer motor together longer.
TIMINATOR