No Charge

[rodman99999]

Did have a voltmeter, battery is reading about 10.9 and fuse side is reading 10.9 too. No volts on brown wire. We didn't have any "excitement" the other day which is what led us to the connection we made, which appaently was a bad idea.

So put the wires back and put on a new alternator and I am back where I started.

Is the field fix going to solve no power to the brown wire? Is the reason for no light the fact that we don't have a complete circuit to the alternator?

Thanks

Did you test for that 10.9V from the bulb socket to a ground? That should only work on the fuse side of the socket with the wire off the alternator. If you've got that: Set the multimeter to "Ohms" and check for continuity from the other side of the bulb socket to the ALT end of the brown wire(you might need a longer piece of wire to splice in). If you put the bulb in the circuit, there will be a voltage drop, but you should still have something there. If not there's obviously a break/bad connection in the circuit between the bulb and ALT. I'm guessing you haven't charged the battery?

 

[turbojd]

Is the field fix going to solve no power to the brown wire?* Is the reason for no light the fact that we don't have a complete circuit to the alternator?Thanks[/QUOTE]
I ftheres a problem in the dash or the wiring to the alternator the "field fix kit" will allow charging, as long as the "sol" fuse is not open.

 

[russgill]

Rod,
Just finished charging the battery, reading 13+.

I think I am getting lost.
Let me see if I have this, because I am not sure if the plug was off the alternator or not.

1. I took the wire off alternator.
2. Turned key on.
3. Checked volts to fuse side (left side of socket) with bulb out
(10.9)
4. Checked for volts (with bulb out) to the ground side of the socket (right side socket). Reads 10.9. Is this possible without the bulb?
From here is where you lost me, can you 1, 2, 3 me through the ohms, etc?

Jd,
Where is the sol fuse at and by open I presume you mean blown?

Thanks

 

[rodman99999]

Rod,
Just finished charging the battery, reading 13+.

I think I am getting lost.
Let me see if I have this, because I am not sure if the plug was off the alternator or not.

1. I took the wire off alternator.
2. Turned key on.
3. Checked volts to fuse side (left side of socket) with bulb out
(10.9)
4. Checked for volts (with bulb out) to the ground side of the socket (right side socket). Reads 10.9. Is this possible without the bulb?
From here is where you lost me, can you 1, 2, 3 me through the ohms, etc?

Jd,
Where is the sol fuse at and by open I presume you mean blown?

Thanks

When you test for voltage at the bulb socket: Do you have the black lead of the multimeter(set for DC volts) attached to a ground on the car? You should only have voltage on one of the two terminals in the bulb socket(the one that is connected to the fuse). If you've got full voltage at the battery, you should have 12V(not 10.9) at the fuse block, bulb socket, etc-unless there's a loose connection somewhere(like at the starter terminal/fusible links/battery cable). To test for continuity from the bulb socket to the ALT(brown wire): Set the multimeter for OHMS(lowest scale, like x1), attach one of the multimeter's leads to the ALT end of the brown wire, and with the other lead- touch the bulb socket terminal that had NO voltage in the previous test. The multimeter will give you a reading, if there's continuity(touch the probes together to get an idea of how the meter reads with continuity).

 

[turbojd]

sol fuse at the fuse box, this fuse must not be blown if you go ahead and use the " alternator field fix kit" this fuse controls a bunch of solenoids, one of them being the wastegate solenoid, which must function because the field fix kit plugs into the wastegate connector for power.

 

[rodman99999]

That kit must have a resistor wired into it to drop the voltage to the ALT(takes the place of the bulb). Good idea in a pinch!

 

[russgill]

Rod,
Your note quote" When you test for voltage at the bulb socket: Do you have the black lead of the multimeter(set for DC volts) attached to a ground on the car? You should only have voltage on one of the two terminals in the bulb socket(the one that is connected to the fuse)".

Yes on the ground, but I am still getting readings on both side of the socket, see steps that follow that I took


Just went through it again. Battery charger says full charge, but here is what I see.

1. Battery is at 10.52 on the meter-key off.
2. Battery is at 10.49 on the meter-key on
3. Fuse is at 10.36,key on
4. Socket fuse side, bulb out, key on 10.3
5. Socket right side, bulb out, key on 10.29. What can I possible be doing as this side should not have a reading, right? Or could there be another problem?

Do these number indicate a loose connection or other issues?

Would the field fix eliminate, make what we are checking a non issue?

Jd,
Don't see a sol fuse listed in my owner’s manual, is it labeled something else?

Thanks guys I know I am driving you nuts, I am sorry for that.


Would the field fix eliminate this

 

[russgill]

Rod,
Just saw your last note, on the resistor, does that note mean yes on the field fix eliminates the need to do all the checking we are doing?

Thanks

 

[turbojd]

The "field fix kit" will allow the car to charge even if you have a problem from your dash to the alternator.

 

[russgill]

Ok then it appears we are all in agreement, now how about this info until the field fix arrives or a bad idea? I am concerned that if we fried the alternator with the 12V buy the waste gate that this might have the same results.

This comes from info I found when digging around earlier for volt light issue.

"You can fix it PERMANENTLY one of three ways

"A) This method will insure that your alternator will always charge but will eliminate the "volts" idiot light on the dash. I don't recommend this method if you don't have a volt gauge or other means to monitor your charging system voltage. Move the brown wire on the stock alternator plug from the "L" terminal to the "I/F" terminal (the terminal designations are stamped on the stock plug). Then cut the wire about 6inches or so before the alternator and connect it to switched +12v. A good source for switched +12v is the stock plug that goes to the stock boost control solenoid on the pass side valve cover.

B) Same as above but instead of moving the stock wire you simply add another wire to the "I/F" terminal and connect it to the switched +12v source. You'll need a metripack connector for this method. This way your idiot light will still work but your alternator's charging won't be dependent on the bulb.

C) Buy a "Field-Fix Harness" from Caspers Electronics. It's plug-n-play and does exactly what's described in option B above."

I have to run out now but will be back.

Thanks again.

 

[russgill]

Update-The saga continues

Had the alternator swapped out, put on the field fix harness, and a new belt. Now what I have is my volt meter reading 13-14 and my scanmaster reading 12-13, except when I put the peddle to the metal, then the "Master" starts dropping down to around 11. When this happens the car starts to hesitates (slight stumbling) then then picks up again.

What have I screwed up now?

 

[turbojd]

Is it a 120 amp alternator? I would load test the alternator and see what it's putting out.

 

[russgill]

Yes 120. How is the best way to load test?

Thanks

 

[turbojd]

You could take it to Autozone or someplace like that by you and have them load test it for you to see what it's putting out under a load.

 

[russgill]

What do I want to hear from them after they test it? Do they need to pull the plug on the back? I have a crome cover that will have to be unbolted to get to that plug.

 

[turbojd]

What you wanna hear is that voltage is not dropping under a load such as WOT.

 

[russgill]

It it is not then where do I go? Same for if it is dropping?

Thanks

 

[turbojd]

It might test fine at idle, but under a load or certain rpm's it might not be putting out enough voltage, could be a bad regulator, if voltage is dropping under a load then you need a new alternator.

 

[fc227]

If the problem is not the bulb, check the socket also,could also be the contacts in dash as they oxidize over time and can cause this problem. If thats the problem Caspers electronics sell an "alternator field fix kit" to bypass that and the car will charge, all"plug-n-play.

X2

 

[russgill]

Do you mean the requlator in the alternator? Alternator is band new just put it on yesterday. I know that doesn't mean it is not bad. Is there something that could cause it to go bad after installation? Is it possible that it will read good under load, if so then what?

Thanks

Thanks