Brian Verson
Member
- Joined
- Jun 19, 2001
- Messages
- 134
My converter is not locking up the scanner is telling me its being commanded on but nothing happens. 
No Converter Lockup
- Thread starter Brian Verson
- Start date
Welcome!
By registering with us, you'll be able to discuss, share and private message with other members of our community.
MeanBuicks
Scaring the neighbors!
- Joined
- May 24, 2001
- Messages
- 3,658
A very common subject here.
Read some of these threads as they should be helpful to you.
Don't hesitate to ask further questions.
Read some of these threads as they should be helpful to you.
Don't hesitate to ask further questions.
Brian Verson
Member
- Joined
- Jun 19, 2001
- Messages
- 134
TCC
You talked about testing the TCC and internal wiring for lockup. 12v power to term. A and ground ETC. Can you discribe this in more detail .
Thanks Brian
You talked about testing the TCC and internal wiring for lockup. 12v power to term. A and ground ETC. Can you discribe this in more detail .
Thanks Brian
MeanBuicks
Scaring the neighbors!
- Joined
- May 24, 2001
- Messages
- 3,658
I never asked this question up front. Has it ever locked-up up for you? If so, what happened when it stopped locking up? Was it sudden or intermittent?
Assuming that it was locking for you (& you don't unknowingly have a non-lock up converter), here is some test criteria.
First, verify that you have 12V to your transmission, terminal A should be hot when key-on except when brake pedal is depressed.
Grab a multimeter and crawl under the car. Unplug the transmission harness and probe the case connector on the trans. Measure the resistance between terminals A and D; upper and lower left. (The solenoid has an internal diode so the circuit will only check in one direction.)
You should see 24-26 ohms. That tells you that the internal wiring and TCC solenoid are healthy electrically. If you have an open circuit or short circuit, pull the pan and find the problem.
If you have the proper ohm reading, you're still narrowing down the cause of your problem. Possibilities are; the solenoid, while healthy electrically, does not function properly mechanically; the TCC valve in the pump is stuck or the converter clutch lining in the converter is shot. Pull the pan for the next step.
Once the pan is off, get a 10m socket and remove the TCC solenoid. Using a small screwdriver or scribe, push up on the TCC valve that is in the bore where the solenoid was. It should be free to move up and down; there is a spring on the top side of the valve. If it doesn't move, that is a problem that needs to be corrected.
If it is free, you'll need to make sure that the solenoid is functioning mechanically. You should be able to blow air through it when it's off. Apply 12V to terminal A and ground terminal D and attempt to blow air through it again. You shouldn't be able to. If you can blow air through the applied solenoid.
If the solenoid passes the test, it may be that your clutch lining is toast in the converter. Let us know how you do.
Assuming that it was locking for you (& you don't unknowingly have a non-lock up converter), here is some test criteria.
First, verify that you have 12V to your transmission, terminal A should be hot when key-on except when brake pedal is depressed.
Grab a multimeter and crawl under the car. Unplug the transmission harness and probe the case connector on the trans. Measure the resistance between terminals A and D; upper and lower left. (The solenoid has an internal diode so the circuit will only check in one direction.)
You should see 24-26 ohms. That tells you that the internal wiring and TCC solenoid are healthy electrically. If you have an open circuit or short circuit, pull the pan and find the problem.
If you have the proper ohm reading, you're still narrowing down the cause of your problem. Possibilities are; the solenoid, while healthy electrically, does not function properly mechanically; the TCC valve in the pump is stuck or the converter clutch lining in the converter is shot. Pull the pan for the next step.
Once the pan is off, get a 10m socket and remove the TCC solenoid. Using a small screwdriver or scribe, push up on the TCC valve that is in the bore where the solenoid was. It should be free to move up and down; there is a spring on the top side of the valve. If it doesn't move, that is a problem that needs to be corrected.
If it is free, you'll need to make sure that the solenoid is functioning mechanically. You should be able to blow air through it when it's off. Apply 12V to terminal A and ground terminal D and attempt to blow air through it again. You shouldn't be able to. If you can blow air through the applied solenoid.
If the solenoid passes the test, it may be that your clutch lining is toast in the converter. Let us know how you do.
The converter has never locked up sence I've had the car. I took it to a tranny shop that a friend ownes and did some testing . We though it might be the converter so we yanked the trans and found a couple more problems . I decided to do a rebuild , shift kit , 10 vane pump , upped the boost valve , replaced the converter and he did some other stuff . The trans shifts great and stall at 2400rpm but still no lockup . I'll check it with the info you have armed me with .
Thanks for all your help . Brian Verson
Thanks for all your help . Brian Verson
