No Start After Timing Chain Job

Cryptic

Active Member
Joined
Aug 6, 2001
I just wrapped up replacing my timing chain. I am getting oil pressure and it is cranking but not starting.

I've done some basic troubleshooting:
  • I am not getting any spark
  • I am getting fuel pressure but it does not appear that the injectors are firing (based upon cranking and dry spark plugs, I am picking up a noid light tomorrow to validate that 100%)
  • I replaced the crank sensor due to damaging the crank sensor bracket (short version: I'm an idiot) but based upon what I'm reading a crank sensor only affects spark and not fuel
  • I set the cam sensor using Casper's tool, after the no-start condition I set it again this time with a buddy to supervise me
  • Just in case the wiring I did blew a fuse (see below) I pulled and checked all fuses that seemed like they would be relevant
The only other thing I've touched is I respliced some wiring under the dash while I was waiting on parts (lots of the wiring by the previous owner was wire twisted together with electrical tape and I used actual crimps): the only wiring I touched was related to some gauges and Scanmaster all of which appear to be working properly after the fact.

I'm sure it's something simple but I can't quite figure it out. I haven't touched anything else on the car aside from that gauge wiring during the timing chain replacement in fear of having an issue and adding more variables and am now glad that I did! Any guidance would be appreciated!
 

Which slot is used on the crank sensor?
Does the cam sensor rotate when cranking?

I’ve started going down the path of the no start tree hence why I ordered the noid tool. I appreciate the guidance on it.

I gapped the crank sensor to .025”. What do you mean which slot did I use?

I believe the cam sensor moves when cranking. After attempts to crank and pulling the cap off it has moved but I haven’t actually tried cranking with the cap off to watch it.


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Link:
This may sound elementary, but verify to ensure the crank and cam sensors are plugged in, and electrical plugs fully seated.

Wow I feel really dumb and hope that the crank sensor is my problem. I realized that I glanced over that too quickly now and didn’t pay enough attention when watching VenomGT87’s YouTube video. I have the reluctor blade gapped on the outside of the sensor not between the slots [emoji2359].

I appreciate you pointing that out and will follow up tomorrow with my results.


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For reference:

The relationship of cam and crank sensors is a little more involved. The crank sensor is the trigger for both Spark and Fuel, but until the ignition module (TR6 in this case) detects a cam sensor, no crank sensor signals are allowed to pass thru to the ECM (XFI in this case)

Bob
 
For reference:

Thanks again. It sounds like me not setting up the crank sensor properly is probably my root cause. Can’t wait to tear into it after work tomorrow and see if that’s it. Too bad the weather is terrible in Texas right now. If this works I want to take it for a test drive badly!


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Sounds like you may have found the issue. Also pull the cap off the cam sensor. Make sure the reluctor wheel is secure. There was a post recently of a no start and when they looked under the cap the wheel was messed up.
 
Sounds like you may have found the issue. Also pull the cap off the cam sensor. Make sure the reluctor wheel is secure. There was a post recently of a no start and when they looked under the cap the wheel was messed up.

Hope so. I’ll know in 4-5 hours when I get home. Good call on the reluctor wheel. We did think to check that!


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When setting the gap, do it for each tang on the back of the crank and on both sides of the tang. Mostly to make sure the tang doesn't hit the sensor. It really doesn't go well if it self clearances.
 
When setting the gap, do it for each tang on the back of the crank and on both sides of the tang. Mostly to make sure the tang doesn't hit the sensor. It really doesn't go well if it self clearances.

Haha. I’ve read that advice over and over again. It sounds like more than one person has gotten burned by that.


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Ok.. this is unclear.. does it start or does it not start? Did you try turning the cam sensor 180 and trying to start it? crank sensor is rarely a problem.
 
Ok.. this is unclear.. does it start or does it not start? Did you try turning the cam sensor 180 and trying to start it? crank sensor is rarely a problem.

The car will not start. I have not rotated the cam sensor 180.

If the crank sensor being installed properly doesn’t do the trick that will be next on my checklist.

Luckily I’ll be picking up some diagnostic tools today that will help me work the troubleshoot tree a little better. I’ll be posting an update tonight.

Thanks everyone for your help and suggestions so far! It’s been very helpful. That’s why I love this place.


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My friend that was a GM mechanic had a factory tool for setting the alignment. Looks similar to this:
Slide it on and put the crank sensor in line and tighten it. We used it on a rebuild we did last summer. Was a breeze.
 
This is what I use. A home made tool cut from .020 plastic sheet than can be purchased at an office supply store. You can make a hundred for a buck. Put one on each side of the reluctor for proper spacing.
 

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You’re going to laugh but I ran through the directions really quickly the first time around. I spaced the end of the sensor to the reductor blades instead of in between the fins. In other words I have the end of the sensor butted up against the blades [emoji2359].

Had I taken five more minutes to read the instructions more carefully I would have saved myself hours and I’m typically a “read the directions twice” kinda guy.


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