No Start Issue + No SES Light...

[sullen]

Need some advice.

Few days ago, battery died mysteriously.
Old battery, didn't think much of it, got new one, car started no problem.
Don't know if that is related, but figured i would put it out there.
That was the only issue of any sort i've had since i got this car.


Anyways,
Car cranks strong but wont start.
Was looking at the no start page on vortex...

Says.... with the key on the Service engine soon light should be on
if not see chart 1a.
light is not on, and don't see chart 1a on the page.

What is the car trying to say if the SES light is not on?

This is for the modded 86 with the FAST, not the 87 stocker.

Going to try and find "chart 1a" in the 8 billion page service manual.
In the meantime, was wondering if anyone has any initial advice on this?

Thanks..

 

[bmackinnon]

If the ses lite is not on, that indicates either the ecm is not receiving power, or the ecm is dead.... check the orange wire from the pos. term. of the batt... may be a bad connection at the connector there near the batt...

edit: oops! FAST equipped.... not sure there... did the ses lite work before???

 

[pacecarta]

forget the factory no start , no ses with fast classic B2B ,
veriify the fuel pump is coming on and the fuel pressure is correct
hook a laptop to it and see if you're getting an rpm signal when you crank it ,
also check the map value to verify its working ,
you can also check the fast error code(s) and if theres a number other than 0 look it up in the help section on ccom WP

 

[sullen]

Thanks Paul

I'm getting RPM between 100 and 150 when cranking
I forgot to look at the MAP when i went out there.
I gotta run out for a few minutes, I will go and look at that when i get back.

In the dashboard is shows under the code value: 132
but I can;t for the life of me find a list of the codes in ccom help.

The car has that loud as hell oil pre/post pump,
i unplugged it, and i do not hear the fuel pump priming....

With the setup of this car, am i supposed to hear the same prime noise as i do in my 87 stocker (stock but with walbro pump and hotwiring of course)

I got rid of my mechanical fuel pressure gauge (wishing i had it now!)
The one on the other car is an elelctronic gauge that will be a major PITA to take off the car just to verify fuel pressure.

Thanks for the help, I never had a F.A.S.T. car before, appreciate the advice on it, ill post back when i check the MAP value.

 

[pacecarta]

prime is same as the stock ecm but its length of initial prime is programmable . usual setting is 4 seconds

rpm before fire is usually set to 400 rpm , check plugs arent soaked and check for spark,

why did you replace the battery if engine is really slow maybe the battery helped out a hard start but is now weak , or the starter is weak and due for a replacement ,

from ccomWP
I can't get my car to start at all. (Back to the top) - Verify that an RPM sensor reading is present (usually 100-150 RPM) while cranking the engine. Also verify that the crank reference angle is set correctly for your application, and that the crank sensor timing is set correctly on the engine. Until an RPM signal is present, you won't get any spark or injector pulse.
Note: On GM vehicles using factory ignitions with a bypass feature such as HEI, Buick DIS, or Northstar DIS, the ignition module will generate its own spark during cranking even if an RPM signal is not present on the FAST ECU. If this is the case, you will see spark but will not have an injector pulse.
- If you do see an RPM signal but the engine still won't start, remove a spark plug and verify that you are getting good spark.
- If you are getting good spark, try increasing the pulsewidth values in the cranking fuel table. You may not be injecting enough fuel into the engine during cranking.
- Make sure that you are getting fuel to the rails and that fuel pressure is correctly set. Fuel pressure on EFI-equipped vehicles is typically set to 45 psi with the engine off.
- Verify that each fuel injector is getting a +12V signal on one of the wires, both with the ignition on AND during cranking. The ECU will trigger the other wire on the injector to fire it.
- If the TPS value is at 80 or higher during cranking, the ECU will operate in "clear flood" mode, meaning that it will trigger the ignition but will not fire the injectors.

 

[Hacksaw]

Make sure the orange wire from the battery to the ECM is still connected. It might have come loose during the battery change.

If you still have NO SES light, then it's a wiring/ECM failure.

The fuel pumps on these do die, so you need to check for fuel pressure while cranking by using a gauge.

If you have an SES light with key on, then go get a paper clip:

Malfunction Codes Reference

Note you should get code 12 three times before the first code.

 

[pacecarta]

Make sure the orange wire from the battery to the ECM is still connected. It might have come loose during the battery change.

If you still have NO SES light, then it's a wiring/ECM failure.

The fuel pumps on these do die, so you need to check for fuel pressure while cranking by using a gauge.

If you have an SES light with key on, then go get a paper clip:

Malfunction Codes Reference

Note you should get code 12 three times before the first code.

re read the op post , he is no longer on the stock ecu ..he has FAST bank to bank , no stock ecu so no data stream for trouble codes , no ses light for trouble,
and the orange wire doesnt matter if its connected ...if he has the precision harness the orange wire doesn't connect to anything inside the car

 

[Hacksaw]

OK, I didn't know those don't allow the normal code reading.

 

[sullen]

not the orange wire but it did end up being a wire i knocked loose during the battery change was driving myself crazy over nothing, thanx guys

 

[Hacksaw]

:redface:

At least that's cheaper than a new ECM.