no start
- Thread starter TurboGN86
- Start date
- Joined
- Feb 18, 2006
Crank
- Joined
- Feb 18, 2006
With key on check for 12v on pin p and m of the module plug.
RmvBfrFlght
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Sep 28, 2007
RmvBfrFlght
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Sep 28, 2007
Here is the sensor wiring:
http://www.installationinstructions.com/vin7/ccci.pdf
Note that both the cam & crank sensors get power from the ICM. It shows +12 volts, but it is usually in the 10 - 11 volt range. And being Hall Effect sensors also require a ground. The first test/check is for power & ground, just measure between the two terminals of the connector.
All these tests are done key-on, engine-off.
Then to test the sensor, cam first, remove the cap and measure the voltage between the center pin of the connector and ground. Now place a piece of steel in the sensor gap and again measure the voltage. The voltage should be high (about 5 -10 volts), and switch to low (about 0 - 2 volts).
Note that I don't know which is which, IOW, if it is high with the steel in the gap or if it is low. Just look for the two separate readings as the metal is placed into and removed from the gap. If the voltage doesn't change then the sensor is bad.
Do the same with the crank sensor (it is the end pin C). You can either remove it from the timing cover, or rotate the engine until the shutter wheel is open at the sensor. Should get two distinct voltage readings as a thin piece of steel is placed into and out of the gap. Be sure to place it in the correct gap, the one furthest from the connector.
RemoveBeforeFlight
http://www.installationinstructions.com/vin7/ccci.pdf
Note that both the cam & crank sensors get power from the ICM. It shows +12 volts, but it is usually in the 10 - 11 volt range. And being Hall Effect sensors also require a ground. The first test/check is for power & ground, just measure between the two terminals of the connector.
All these tests are done key-on, engine-off.
Then to test the sensor, cam first, remove the cap and measure the voltage between the center pin of the connector and ground. Now place a piece of steel in the sensor gap and again measure the voltage. The voltage should be high (about 5 -10 volts), and switch to low (about 0 - 2 volts).
Note that I don't know which is which, IOW, if it is high with the steel in the gap or if it is low. Just look for the two separate readings as the metal is placed into and removed from the gap. If the voltage doesn't change then the sensor is bad.
Do the same with the crank sensor (it is the end pin C). You can either remove it from the timing cover, or rotate the engine until the shutter wheel is open at the sensor. Should get two distinct voltage readings as a thin piece of steel is placed into and out of the gap. Be sure to place it in the correct gap, the one furthest from the connector.
RemoveBeforeFlight
ok guys i have replaced the ingnition module and coil pack twice. the crank sensor. it starts up when it wants to and runs for up to afew hours then out of the blue it cuts off and will no crank. i had a guy check some voltage readings on the car. though i was tired and more pissed off then i have been in a while. so idk what they were. if im not mistken the crank sensor controls the spark as does the ingnition module. does the came sensor play a role in this? i am stumpped and will pay someone to fix it but so far all the mechanics i have let look at it have drawn a blank.
Rafs-T-Type
Not so Senior Member
- Joined
- Mar 8, 2009
Sounds like a bad battery connection. Check them with a wrench, sometimes they feel solid until you put a wrench on them. O, and check out the ground while you are there.
luisturbog
UNDERDOG HOT AIR !!!!!!!
- Joined
- Mar 30, 2007
Did this issue ever get solved???
