Not running right, checked compression

[The Machine]

I installed my hotwire kit. Now when I go WOT I get a scanmaster reading of 42. & 9.6 WTF?

42. what the heck is that? Did I screw up the ground connection on the hotwire kit, or is my O2 sensor fried?????

That's it, I'm gonna start drinking!

 

[TurboBuRick]

Any one of the plugs look any different? Mabye a bad injector.

Verify FP under load & boost might help troubleshoot o2 readings

 

[The Machine]

I could check that, but instead I think I'll bypass the hotwire kit to see if my WOT readings go back to the 700 & 6.5 area. that should tell me if I screwed up the hotwire install.

Thnx for helping tho!

 

[TurboBuRick]

I know you meen 700 mv
but what is 6.5?
Knock retard? That should be 0.0 mabye 1.0 on shifts.

 

[The Machine]

I know you meen 700 mv
but what is 6.5?
Knock retard? That should be 0.0 mabye 1.0 on shifts.

I meant 6.5 as it used to be before my hotwire kit. With the kit installed & it & the pump working properly, I was hoping to get the numbers you mentioned.

I'll most likely revisit the kit, and relocate the slide-on ground tab to a better/cleaner location, hopefully that will help. I don't recall reading anywhere when a kit made the O2 & knock retard numbers worse, no matter what shape the pump was in. I have a pump, I'm just a bit worn down :frown:

Thnx!

 

[TurboMonte 2]

Sorry for delayed response--damned computer connections...

I was trying to channel our thinking between mechanical & electrical venues. I was thinking perhaps mechanical as your problem is not worse under boost (typical of electrical)??

Thnx TurboMonte, actually you asked a question that's been on my mind. The problem with missing does not actually seem to be there under heavy boost. It seems to smooth out some under heavy boost.

With my factory boost gauge fluttering like it is now all of the sudden, I'm thinking I might have a burnt valve. From what I've read, I need to get a mechanics steathascope (sp?), shove it in the throttle body, turn it over a few times, & listen for a hissing.

Is that why you asked the question?

Thnx again,
James

 

[The Machine]

Sorry for delayed response--damned computer connections...

I was trying to channel our thinking between mechanical & electrical venues. I was thinking perhaps mechanical as your problem is not worse under boost (typical of electrical)??

Thanks for the help.

Now it seems worse under boost. I put the hotwire kit on, and my scnamaster wot readings dropped to like 40 & 9.5. So I moved the ground the the edge of the tank like it was supposed to be (duh) & tried it again, still really bad. So I bypassed the hotwire kit, & just plugged the pump in to the factory connection, went wot & got 19 & 0.0? It gets into the boost & starts to fall on it's face. Possibly there isn't even enough gas the get knock?

What is that? Did the pump give up the ghost? Did my O2 sensor die on me? I mean these reading aren't in the ball park.
It just keeps kicking my butt.

I'll give it this tho, it's nice to look at

Thanks for any help from anyone.

James

 

[TurboBuRick]

Prop a FP gauge up in the windshield and take it for a blast. Fp should increase with boost. If fp drops or does'nt move, you know you have a fuel issue.

 

[The Machine]

Prop a FP gauge up in the windshield and take it for a blast. Fp should increase with boost. If fp drops or does'nt move, you know you have a fuel issue.

Thnx for the help. I don't have a line to extend it outside the hood, but I did talk to a local guy who has more time with these cars than me. He's rebuilt a few. Wednesday I'm taking it over there & we're gonna put my walbro pump in & check into installing the new style cam cap.

We're also gonna see if we can figure out the other problems. If things go well, we'll put my te44c on, but only if everything else seems ok.

 

[TurboMonte 2]

You need try dealing with one issue at a time--rather than jumping around like a fart in a skillet (nothing personal--just an old saying...).

A bad O2 sensor would cause bad readings, but not as likely, in itself, to cause your running problems. Like Rick already mentioned, you really need your FP gauge out on windshield where you can see your pump's failure to perform properly. I'd buy one RIGHT NOW & wait until it's installed before further testing--potential engine damage.

A new O2 sensor now would not hurt anything & also likely be a good move!

Patience & Good Luck, Monte

 

[The Machine]

Thnx again guys. Hey if you saw all the parts I have waiting to be installed, you'd be tempted also.

I'm putting my pump in tomorrow, I can hear it thru the tank neck kind of hissing pretty loud. Really don't need to listen thru the neck to hear it. Possibly the guy helping me will have a fuel pressure gauge hose so we can check before & after. That's what I forgot to get today, an O2 sensor. But while I was at Napa, I picked up one of those silly mechanics stethascopes (sp?).

I used it & listened to all the fuel injectors, the cam sensor sounded a bit rough, but at the base of the #2 cylinder injector I could hear the "missing". All the others sounded pretty smooth, but #2 was obvously not right. Then I listened to each set of springs under the valve covers. Directly above the springs for the #2 cylinder I heard a bit of a racket.

I'm reasonably sure I need a set of springs, their stock & 20 years old at 24k miles, but pulling the valve cover will tell the whole story.

Hey at least I got my hotwire kit grounds done exactly right today! I think the rest is almost figured out too......

 

[The Machine]

Replaced plug wires, cam sensor cap, fuel pump.

Still skipping / missing.

Under WOT the scanmaster still reads like 42 & 2.4

Will replace the O2 sensor, and ordered new valve springs with the tool from Kirban. I figure if I have to tear it down, I'd be replacing the springs anyway.

Need to figure out why when I turn the key on the radiator fan comes on right away. I'm told it might be the temp swith on the fron of the engine, not sure which one tho.

Will report back after valve springs come in & I've pulled the covers, etc.

 

[The Machine]

Installed new Kirban springs, cromoly push rods, RJC shaft braces.

Still skipping / missing

Runs like doggy doo under boost, I was able to do a recall on the scanmaster after going wot, it was like 585mv & 1.4 degrees retard.

I know that's lean, but I just set my regulator using the rail pressure gauge to 43psi cap off. Nothing seems to work as it should.

While doing my springs, I noticed this guy creeping up on me in the dark:

Notice how he still tries to bite the screw driver even after being decapitated.

Second copperhead I've taken out this week

Well, back to troubleshooting, any ideas??
Thnx,
Jimmy

 

[Quick6'n'-K.C.]

When you say #2, you mean the first on on the pass side

If you might hear some noise on #3 exhaust lobe, the second one back on the drivers side, then cam lobe.

Have you checked to see if the back bolt is inplace for the coil pack and module.
Have you checked to see if the cam sensor is set correctly? Do you have a cam sensor tool?

Guy stopped by here the other day, it would pop and spit. His cam sensor was off a fuzz said it went away, but the miss is still there.
Have you put in a fresh set of plugs, drove it, then pulled the plugs to see which one is discolored to locate the bad cyl?

How about a loose connection in the injector wiring harness? Ever pull it back to inspect it near the EGR, is your injector burned thru from the EGR gasket going bad and blowing heat on the injector?

BW

 

[The Machine]

Thanks for the ideas Bryan.

Me and another guy who works on these more than I do replaced the cap the other day. We installed the lighted ledfoote cap, and he used the power from his cam tool to light it. His tool, and the cap both lit at the same time, and he used the #1 cylinder & the balancer during the adjustment process. It ran the same afterwards. That should not be the problem.

I like your idea about checking the plugs after a new set is installed. I think I'll either clean mine (they're fairly new), or replace them & take it for another spin. I'll take a picture of them all afterwards.

I just got a new O2 sensor, and I'm gonna thro it in for the hell of it.

I was thinking today that I remember putting the EGR cover back on the other day, possibly when the problems started, but I can't be sure. I'll pull that off while I'm doing the O2, & see if I find a problem, or if it runs better.

Hey at least it rides better from getting some of the parts out of the trunk :frown:

Thanks again to everyone.
Jimmy

 

[The Machine]

Put the now O2 sensor in, and pulled the egr cover off to check around there. Looks fine to me. I watched the scanmaster at idle, it counts from 1 to 255 in about 30 to 45 seconds.

Still missing / skipping

Will try a fresh set of plugs to read them next.

Thnx for any help guys.
Jimmy

 

[TurboBuRick]

Any one of the plugs look any different? Mabye a bad injector.

You should'nt need new plugs. Pull the ones in it now and see if condition is in one or all cylinders.

 

[The Machine]

Thanks Rick, I realy appreciate your help.

In doing the valve springs I may have mixed the plugs up a bit. So I think in order to do a fair read on the plugs I'd need to start fresh again. Believe me I don't want to, but at this point I don't want to waste my or anyone elses time by confusing things more.

Once I get the fresh plugs in & a few miles on them, I'll pull'em & line them up in order & take a snapshot of all the tips.

Just waiting for the motor, outside, & me to cool down a bit first.

Thnx again,
Jimmy

 

[TurboBuRick]

Thanks Rick, I realy appreciate your help.

In doing the valve springs I may have mixed the plugs up a bit. So I think in order to do a fair read on the plugs I'd need to start fresh again. Believe me I don't want to, but at this point I don't want to waste my or anyone elses time by confusing things more.

Once I get the fresh plugs in & a few miles on them, I'll pull'em & line them up in order & take a snapshot of all the tips.

Just waiting for the motor, outside, & me to cool down a bit first.

Thnx again,
Jimmy

I here ya, its HOT today. Changing plugs is a good idea. Although you might find your problem by pulling the ones you have. Your looking for a dark black one. This will be obvious. No mystery. Its either one or all.
A friend of mine had a simalar condition. He found a black plug on #6. He then moved the injector to #4 and low and behold #4 plug fouled. Bad injector.
If condition is in all cylinders you have other issues.

 

[TurboBuRick]

Hey Jimmy, one more thing. Do you still here racket on #2?

Pull the valve cover and start the car. Look to see if all the rockers have the same amount of movement. You might have a flat cam bro.