Not sure what I have.

[Pronto]

The boost solenoid it directly behind the turbo on the valve cover. There are 2 ports. the upper one is supposed to have a sponge filter on it but they always blow off. The lower one is supposed to go to a boost line that has a special Y in it and then one arm to the turbo housing and the other to the boost actuator. From what I understand, that prebent rubber line and special Y is not available anymore. You may be able to find one in the parts for sale section. You can still run that bleeder for now but pull off the turbo shield and loosen that rod as Patrick advised. The boost solenoid has to be plugged in or it will throw a code. The chip will control the solenoid so if you get a TT chip Eric will build in to the chip tune very close setting for fuel, timing, etc for the boost you intend to run. If you want to run more boost more than about 15 then you will need either E85, 100 octane, Alky Control or octane booster. Since the 44 is pretty much the same up to about 18 or so psi as the stock turbo, it's really not doing much for extra performance. If you want to stretch the legs and get that extra boost and hp you'll need that octane. If you intend on doing that then you need that built into the chip. You'll need to decide a few things before getting a modern chip and injectors. If you go with E85 if available then you need much bigger injectors. If you do Alky then you need to keep that tank filled. If you go 100 oct then you can't water it down with 93. Octane booster will turn your sparkplugs orange. All will cost more to run than just keeping it at 15psi and running 93. Even at 15 and with 93 octane, bad stuff can happen if you get knock, bad like blowing a head gasket or ruining the engine. Owners in the know watch that scanmaster knock like a hawk. Any hint and get out of it. It only take an instant to have a bad day.

 

[Timecode]

Looks like nothing is connected to the boost solenoid but no check engine light. Also the injectors don't have much on them.

 

[Timecode]

 

[Pronto]

The electrical connection is plugged in...

 

[earlbrown]

It looks like you're one of the rare people that buy a car that's not hacked up and appears to be taken care of.

That being said, there's a few things that low mileage won't save. That car's over 30 years old and a lot of parts have just aged out.


Here's the list of stuff you need to buy before the car is driven again... Fuel pump, hotwire kit if missing, fuel filter, injectors (might as well get a modern chip to match), valve springs, timing set, rocker buttons, cork valve cover gaskets, oil pump pickup, oil pan gasket (or a tube of The Right Stuff), EVERY rubber vacuum hose under the hood, 3 check valves if they fail the test, plugs, wires, oil change, and a new jug of brake fluid...

That above list is a given. Not doing that entire list 100% is just as bad as not doing any of it.

On the ''it'd be a really good idea while you're there'' side, I'd toss that goofy chip, low mile 'working' MAF and working powermaster on here or Ebay. Odds are they can fetch some decent money to help buy a Translator, modern MAF and a vacuum brake conversion kit.

Something else I recommend is to toss the 30+ year old rubber brake lines for SS braided.


These cars are actually dependable as hell as long as you stay ahead of the maintenance and preventative maintenance. Driving around in a compromised car NEVER works out well. And it's never inexpensive when they bite you.

 

[Chuck Leeper]

Unplug an inj that's easy to see. Clean the crud off, and look for numbers stamped on the top plastic area.
Take a pic after you do that.

 

[Pronto]

Actually most of the maintenance mentioned would be needed on any 30 year old car. The difference with a TB is the boost. If any of the electrical,fueling or vacuum line systems fail while in boost it will do damage within seconds.

 

[Timecode]

Thanks for the advice. I should be able to handle it. I only paid $8600 for the car.

 

[Timecode]

Any recommendations on fuel pump? Hotwire kit?

 

[mikestertwo]

Post a picture of the plumbing on the wastegate. There are no lines going to the boost control solenoid but I do see a valve on the right side of the motor with a line pinched off with some wire ties.

 

[Timecode]

 

[RUQWKNF]

Yes pics!
I concur with what everyone above has said.
And from the initial pics, it looks like you got a decent deal on this car.

Ok, here we go. I see more clues.

Clue 1.
That valve on the passengers side of the upper plenum, with a zip tied and pinched vacuum line, is a home made boost control valve. I would remove that and run a hose from the turbo to the wastegate actuator. This is called tuner style. Re-adjust the actuator rod (IE: make it longer) so there's just enough pretension to keep the valve closed against the turbine housing of the turbo when the rod is attached to the swing valve. Depending if that is a standard spring wastegate actuator, or a heavy duty actuator will determine your base, aka default boost when running a single vacuum hose to the actuator. If you do this and your boost hits 11-13psi, it's a very good chance it is a stock style, standard spring wastegate actuator, which is good at this point. If the boost hits 18-19psi with the single vacuum hose arrangement aka tuner style, it's a heavy duty wastegate actuator and the boost won't go below that setting. Not the best if you are just starting from scratch. Also, when you adjust the wastegate actuator rod, you will see the tiny E clip, or what some of us like to call the Oh Jesus clip. You know, when you try to take it off and it goes flying across the garage never to be found again... A simple alligator test clip is your best friend. It will make for simpler boost adjustments when you start tuning for real. Some people fab up a lanyard and attach it to either the rod, or a close unused bolt hole so it won't get lost.

Clue 2. I see the light blue / turqoise band on one of the injectors. Chances are those are 009, IE: 42.5# injectors. The label on the chip will verify what size the injectors are. That's my best Jedi guess. Just for giggles, here is what a Caspers Ultrachip looks like. This is the one I just took off my car and recently sold. You can see the double button adjuster that this 8 position chip had. (settings 0 - 7) The Maximum Effort chip will look similar, but with your style thumb wheel adjuster and of course a different label.

Clue #3. Looking at your TPS, it has the secondary male to female weather pack adapter harness that either a TPS Tech, or a Caspers V-bolt volt booster has. You will see the TPS harness adapter circled in red.

Is there a small square module that looks like this buried in the wiring harness, in a similar location as the next pic?
Volt booster module circled in red.

If it does, that is a very good thing and something you want to keep on the car. While we're talking about voltage, what is your voltage at hot idle? Typically stock cars will have 13.5 -14.0v at a hot idle. If low, that needs to be addressed asap. These engines must have 13 - 14v under WOT to live. Very critical.

Clue 4. Your turbo oil drain gasket is leaking. That's where the oil and gunk build up is coming from. The fans blow it everywhere when it drips and causes a mess. A replacement is only $3 - $4. I would recommend replacing the gasket and using copper high temp RTV on both sides of the new gasket. Don't just smear RTV on the outside of that gasket and oil drain, it won't cure and will still leak.


Clue 5. The PCV valve looks suspect. Check to see if it's a gummed up stock style PCV, or if it's a brass check valve that's gummed up.

http://www.kirbanperformance.com/product/43791/AFTERMARKET+PCV+VALVE+#7276.html

Or this check valve.

http://www.kirbanperformance.com/product/43836/REPLACEMENT+HEAVY-DUTY+PCV+VALVE+#7302.html


Clue 6.
That looks to be the stock, factory original ignition module and coil pack, as the ignition module is black and the coil pack has the stock white Turbo V6 sticker on it. I would highly recommend putting that on the replacement list asap. IE: the whole C3I piece. (Computer Controlled Coil Ignition is the coil pack and ignition module) Highway Stars has the hook up on those. You'll need a coil pack, ignition module, the gasket that goes between them and the 6 torx screws. They're not cheap, but a worthy must have upgrade, over the 30 year old pieces. I would also go ahead and replace those spark plug wires while you're at it. I recommend Kirbans High Performance gray wires, or the OEM reproduction style that Highway Stars sells. Change out the plugs as well. I recommend either AC Delco R43TS or Autolite #23's. Gap them at .028 - .030 and you should be good for boost levels under 22 psi.

http://www.highwaystars.net/coil-pack-acdelco-12353801/
http://www.highwaystars.net/gasket-coil-pack-gm-25526450/
http://www.highwaystars.net/module-ignition-control-acdelco-replaces-24503624/
http://www.highwaystars.net/screws-oe-coil-pack-mounting/

Clue 7.
You have a worm style clamp that looks like it is digging into the heater core control valve on the back passengers side of the intake. The valve has a vacuum line attached. I would check to see if the wear has gotten bad enough to let coolant leak out of the valve. If not, just readjusting that worm clamp would be advised for preventive maintenance.

I concur about changing out all of the rubber hoses, especially the turbo and intercooler hoses. The one on the t-body to intercooler up pipe looks hard as a bolder. It's not long before it blows off or develops cracks. All of the vendors on this site sell replacement hoses and clamps, both regular and t-bolt style clamps.

And lastly, the entire engine needs a through pressure washing / degreasing. I would highly suggest that if you do, that you wrap and protect all of the weather pack and exposed electrical connectors with zip lock bags and tape. Anywhere water can get, it will when you pressure wash / degrease an engine / engine bay. Don't forget the passengers side inner fender relays, MAP sensor and ESC module, as well as the replays on the drivers side inner fender. The alternator and coil pack / ignition module needs protection as well. There is also the cam sensor and crank sensor that I would avoid spraying down excessively.

Give us more engine bay pics. The more the better. And don't forget that oil change with ZDDPlus additive. One last biggie, stay away from FRAM oil filters. Those are killers. I recommend K&N, Mobil 1 or AC Delco filters. If AC Delco, go with a PF52, vs the smaller PF47. More capacity and filtration.

I am curious to see what the back of the alternator looks like. That will give us a clue if the car has a hot wire kit or not.

Again see circle in red in this pic.

Keep us posted and hope some of this helps.

-Patrick-

 

[Pronto]

Good advice there.

 

[NY Twin Turbo]

Thanks for the advice. I should be able to handle it. I only paid $8600 for the car.

My God!

You, my friend, are getting an incredible wealth of information from a real great group of guys! I hope you use it in it's entirety. No standard "mechanic" on earth would be able to get you going on the right path better than the one you are being led on right now! If you proceed with the advise and corrective/maintenance work ahead, you will slowly turn this thing into a car unlike anything else in the hot rodding world. Many things about these cars makes them special and owning one that runs right is proud experience that is difficult to duplicate with another vehicle.

It may seem like a lot, but little by little, you just take in all this info and do these things.

I was going to add in some technical advise and info. But the others beat me to most of what I noticed. And are probably planning to add even more to what they have said already.

So I'm going to sit back on this one for a while and just watch how it turns out.

You guys are great!

 

[Timecode]

I can't express how much I appreciate all this information, next week I will start addressing these maintenance updates. I just found in the documentation the ebay motors ad from the owner before the owner I got the car from. This was from 2006.

 

[robertf]

Just the one thing to remember. Its only money and you cannot, repeat, cannot take it with you so spend it on the car.
Of course my wife would tell you differently.

 

[Timecode]

More pics, no hot wire kit? Not even sure what a hotwire kit is.

 

[RUQWKNF]

More pics, yes!
Ok, looks like you have the older, Flowmaster cat back exhaust system. It will work just fine for now, but it will need to be addressed eventually as the tali pipes are hitting the axle tubes. This can cause false knock when you start running the car. Today's options for cat back replacements are Pypes, RJC Racing, Cotton's Performance and GN1 Performance.

The clamp I was referring to that needs to be repositioned is this one.

I would take it off, and flip it over. The screw part of that clamp is rubbing on the heater control valve.

I don't see signs of a hot wire kit, so that will need to be added to the list. Based off of what's shown on the back of the alternator.
Here is the Hot wire kit.

http://www.casperselectronics.com/c...duct/product&path=7_53_54_10_14&product_id=21

www.installationinstructions.com/102028.pdf

I would also suspect it has the stock fuel pump. As a bare minimum, I would drop the tank and take a peek to see what it has. Most people do the hot wire kit and pump at the same time. A quality Walbro 340 255lph pump would be just fine as a stock replacement.

You do in fact have a Caspers V-bolt volt booster, which is good. Definitely keep it.
I would also inspect the MAF duct hose, for any rips or tears. The stock style hose is prone to develop a tear close to the alternator mounting stud. This gives un-metered air and can cause idle and drive ability issues. In this pic from Kirban's site, the problem area is where the red arrow is pointing and underneath the hose. I circled in red where the alternator mounting stud typically rubs the hose.

Most people, myself included, use a cut down rubber vacuum tube plug to cover the stud. This keeps it from doing any further damage. If your MAF hose does have a hole, you can clean it up, and wrap it in electrical tape as a temp fix. With the amount of mods the car has now, I would suggest replacing the hose with a MAF hard pipe. They are available in chrome, polished aluminum or black from all of the vendors on this site.

The next thing I see, the factory coolant hoses are still routed to the throttle body. This circulates hot coolant through a passage in the t-body. It basically is for emissions and getting the engine up to temp quicker in cold climates. However, it introduces unwanted heat into the air stream. This heat will soak into not only the t-body, but the upper plenum as well. Most people disconnect these hoses and either cap them off, or loop them back onto the heater control tube assembly, effectively bypassing these hoses. See the arrows in red. Follow those two hoses from the heater control pipe, to the t-body.

You can bypass them like this next pic, or you can simply cap them off.

And for now, I would recommend as a bare minimum, zip tie all of the rubber vacuum hoses, until each one can get replaced. Especially the two on the Accufab fuel pressure regulator.

The ECM is located in that curved box in the passengers side foot well, lower kick panel. It should either have a plastic push button or a phillips head screw attaching it to the kick panel trim. The cover has two legs that latch onto the webbing of the ECM pocket / holder. Lift the webbing so the tabs will clear and pull the cover off. Now you can pull the ECM out and gain access to the chip. On the back of the ECM, you will see a cover on the lower back that has two screws. This might actually be off or missing because of the taller thumb wheel chip you have. Snap a pic of the chip label. If the label doesn't state what size the injectors are, you'll need to remove the chip and look on the bottom for a second label. Disconnect the orange power wire behind the battery before taking the chip out. The chip only goes into the ECM one way and it's best to rock it length wise to get it to pop out. Take pics of the label / labels and we can better ID what you have. Don't forget to reconnect the orange ECM power wire behind the battery after reinstalling the chip.

You are off to a good start with what you have.
Keep us posted on your progress.

-Patrick-

 

[NY Twin Turbo]

More pics, no hot wire kit? Not even sure what a hotwire kit is.

The hot wire kit most of us use is made by Caspers Electronics. Most vendors carry it. Some make their own. And some Buick guys make it themselves.

Basically, it no longer uses the original factory 12 volt feed wire to power the fuel pump any longer. Instead it is used only as a trigger wire to a relay. Then this relay supplies voltage to the pump through a larger gauge wire directly from the battery.

This eliminates the voltage drop that occurs through the factory harness. And provides full voltage to one of the most critical components on your car.

 

[Timecode]

Thank you Patrick. I need to buy you a beer.