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About 20 minutes east of St Louis Mo
I know that the excessive gas is really bad on the engine
I did change the oil this weekend
 
post a (who near this town thread) hard to do keyboard diagnostics, see if someone can cruise over and help.

your high bl's is from reading a lean condition and the ecm is adding lots of fuel to compensate.
 
Ok

Also when i rev'd it and held it at 1650 rpm the bl'S dropped to 118

Is it supposed to drop like that ?
Thanks

Steve
 
One last dumb question
It appears to have an original air inlet hose
It is a spiral wound rubberized hose that goes from the MAF to the turbo inlet
Some of the wires have broken through and I suppose that is also not good either.
Anyone know where you can get a replacement hose ?
Thanks Steve
 
One last dumb question
It appears to have an original air inlet hose
It is a spiral wound rubberized hose that goes from the MAF to the turbo inlet
Some of the wires have broken through and I suppose that is also not good either.
Anyone know where you can get a replacement hose ?
Thanks Steve

if the wires have broken through i think you might have found your problem. that is unmetered air, which makes for a lean condition, there for the ECM will add fuel and have higher block learn values.
 
if the wires have broken through i think you might have found your problem. that is unmetered air, which makes for a lean condition, there for the ECM will add fuel and have higher block learn values.


Wahla

get a chrome maf pipe with cold air k&n filter
TR parts..scroll down to vender listing and Mark will set you up
toss the slinkey
 
I took the advice from almost everyone on the board and have some new scanmaster numbers
First the original ones

AF = 05-06
L8 = 45
BAT = 13.9
INT = RANGED FROM 123 TO AROUND 133
BL = 146
MPH = 0.0
CLT = 170
ATS=57
r = 625 to 725 (all over the place)
TPS = .40 WOT = 4.38
IAC = 23 THRU 25
CC = would start around 08 and increment up to 255 and start over ?
MAL 0 0

Now I blocked off the vacuum block and its hoses and have these new numbers


AF=05
LB=41
BAT=13.9
INT=123
BL=134 (REV IT JUST SLIGHTLY DROPS TO 128 THEN BACK TO AROUND 133 TO 134)
MPH=0.0
CLT=167
ATS=58
R=AROUND 650
TPS=.48
IAC=28
CC=START AROUND 02 UP TO 255

FUEL PRESS WITH LINE ON AT IDLE = 40 TO 41

ANY CLUES OF WHAT THE NEW NUMBERS MEAN BESIDES VAC LEAK SOMEWHERE ?

ALSO STILL SMELLS LIKE IT IS RUNNING A LITTLE RICH

IM GUESSING THE TPS IS A LITTLE HIGH

ALSO THERE IS INSTUCTIONS ON GNTYPE.ORG THAT SHOWS HOW TO ADJUST TPS AND IAC BUT EVERYTIME I GO THERE I JUST GET A BLANK SCREEN AND CANT GET TO THEM
CAN SOMEONE POST THEM HERE PLEASE ?

ALSO DOES THE REVING UP SLIGHTLY AND THE BLS DROP TO 128 THEN GO RIGHT BACK TO AROUND 133 OR 134 INDICATE A HEADER LEAK ?

WHENEVER I DRIVE THE CAR AND PUSH IT TO KICK THE TURBO ON JUST A LITTLE BIT WHEN I LET OFF I HEAR A BUBBLING OR SORRY FARTING SOUND COMEING FROM THE RIGHT FRONT OF THE CAR ?

THANKS FOR ANY HELP STEVE

I THINK I AM ZEROING IN ON SOME OF THE ISSUES WITH THIS CAR

MAYBE ?
 
FUEL PRESS WITH LINE ON AT IDLE = 40 TO 41 (You want line off reading, fuel pressure seems too high for a stock chip, could be your rich smell)

ANY CLUES OF WHAT THE NEW NUMBERS MEAN BESIDES VAC LEAK SOMEWHERE ?(Not too sure, 133 BLM is much better but could be due to blocking the PCV valve hose. With the PCV valve flowing it would lean a mixture slightly, higher BLM's, since it is unmetered air from the crankcase going into the intake manifold, at least thats how i see it, any others?)

ALSO STILL SMELLS LIKE IT IS RUNNING A LITTLE RICH(Fuel Pressure is too high, line on will be below 38psi normally, is it a stock regulator?)

IM GUESSING THE TPS IS A LITTLE HIGH(.48V is alittle high, .38-.42 is a good range)

ALSO THERE IS INSTUCTIONS ON GNTYPE.ORG THAT SHOWS HOW TO ADJUST TPS AND IAC BUT EVERYTIME I GO THERE I JUST GET A BLANK SCREEN AND CANT GET TO THEM
CAN SOMEONE POST THEM HERE PLEASE ?(IAC: IAC Reset Procedure
TPS: Adjusting the TPS Do IAC first, then TPS)

ALSO DOES THE REVING UP SLIGHTLY AND THE BLS DROP TO 128 THEN GO RIGHT BACK TO AROUND 133 OR 134 INDICATE A HEADER LEAK ?(Computer has 16 BLM cells, your just going to a new memory cell when reving, normal)

WHENEVER I DRIVE THE CAR AND PUSH IT TO KICK THE TURBO ON JUST A LITTLE BIT WHEN I LET OFF I HEAR A BUBBLING OR SORRY FARTING SOUND COMEING FROM THE RIGHT FRONT OF THE CAR ?(Normal, especially with an open filter, its just boost coming out of the air filter since it has no wear else to go!)

HTH
 
Hi,
I jump in at every thread I see about a lean idle. I got my car in 2003 and it's been driving me nuts ever since with a rough idle and hesitation. I also have replaced all sensors, engine rebuild, swapped ECMS, 02 sensors, various chips and it still does the same thing. I even pulled the rocker assemblies off, isolated the intake and pressurized it only to find it air tight. People who try to help still insist that it's a vacume leak.

Pull a spark plug or two (one form each bank at least). If the tips are ghost white (like mine) you got a lean condition. Keep us posted,

Mike
 
Also, if you are going to do a pressure test on the intake manifold you need to pull the rockers. This will close all the valves and isolate the intake manifold from the combustion chamber. Otherwise, your just blowing air into the headers through the open exhaust valves.

Off the Help Rack, you can by those little vacuum caps on a trree. This will allow you to pull one line at a time off and cap the inlet to see if any one them makes a difference. Just my 02.

What is your MAF?
 
I have the vac block totally blocked off right now.
BLS DROPPED DOWN TO 132 TO 133 RANGE down from 150
MAF IS STOCK but appears to be working ?
 
Actually the car runs good.It just seems to be running rich at idle
Those numbers are after the car is warmed up after about 10 minutes
I forget which is closed and open loop
Just cant remember
steve
 
Closed loop is after it warms up. That's when the ECM starts "learning". I'm no computer wiz but I think it goes something like that.

Mine seems to idle O.K. with the Turbo Tweak chip probably because it has rich settings.
 
FP should INCREASE with vac line off reg'r--not decrease from 38 to 25 as you stated. You would want 38-40 'ish vac line off (plug it, of course, so it does not suck in more air/ affect idle) & then FP should drop into low 30's w/ vac line ON...

Yes, holes/ slits in MAF hose will give you unmetered air into engine& will become much worse @ higher rpm...

Yes, you need TPS of .46 or less--as ECM will read .47 or greater as a non-idle condition & start adding fuel...

Yes, horse-fart on decel is normal==pressurized air rushing back/ out intake when throttle plate suddenly closes...
 
Just a Observation>

I noticed on the TPS You are not reading what you should be at full
Throttle. With your scan tool In Hand Turn key on(dont start car) Also make sure your mat is not in the way and you should have no less that 4.50 That is what
the computer recognizes as full throttle. If that is off, alot of other issues can result. Loosen the two screws on the tps and move it gently forward or backward whatever way you need make sure you have about .41-.42 to start
and 4.50 or higher. At full throttle. Dont check full throttle at the linkage check it in the car at gas pedal. This Should Help..
 
I noticed on the TPS You are not reading what you should be at full
Throttle. With your scan tool In Hand Turn key on(dont start car) Also make sure your mat is not in the way and you should have no less that 4.50 That is what
the computer recognizes as full throttle. If that is off, alot of other issues can result. Loosen the two screws on the tps and move it gently forward or backward whatever way you need make sure you have about .41-.42 to start
and 4.50 or higher. At full throttle. Dont check full throttle at the linkage check it in the car at gas pedal. This Should Help..

Max TPS in xs of 4.1 or so is sufficient for ECM to recognize as full-throttle...As stated, just be sure to achieve that minimum-maximum from inside car via pedal...Sometimes 0.2-0.3 gain in TPS can be achieved by just removing a floor mat from under the go-pedal...

More-important is that throttle plate actually be full or near-full open when pedal to floor!!! Pull your inlet pipe & observe while assistant "floors it"!
 
Monte I think I had it backwards
Seems like line on fp is around 32, around 40 off ?
I will check it again to verify
Also the TPS may have gotten moved when I was trying to get the vac lines
off the vac block
They were like litteraly glued on.Couldnt budge the small ones and ended up breaking the plastic block
I have an aluminum one now
Will readjust the TPS to around .4-.42 at idle and around 4.5 at WOT ?
I could only hope the TPS being off were the culprit, but my guess it is not
but I will fix it first and go from there
Thanks Steve
 
I am trying to go thru this in an organized manner
I changed all vac lines, vac block, gasket with no change so far
I ordered the press tester but havent gotten it or that far yet

I tapped the MAF while car was running with no stumble etc

I disconnected the MAF and it did kinda of run a little worse but not much

I then got these numbers

AF=06
LB=50-55
BAT=13.8
INT=120 TO 132 bounced a little
BL=109 to 114 bounced a little
mph=0.0
CLT=195
ATS=60
R=650 TO 700
TPS=.44, WOT=4.15
IAC=15
CC = start at 02 thru 255

FP LINE ON 32-33

My question is with the MAF diconnected how do i get anything for the AF

Mine was at 06
and the BL dropped severly.
Also the IAC dropped to 15

Is this normal with the MAF disconnected ?
Also it did not seem to smell of unburnt gas nearly as much as usual

Thanks for any advice

Steve
 
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