I've seen a website at some point that had pictures to give you an idea of why your O2 sensor was crying...you know, like gave pics of what one looked like when you were running rich or lean or had leaded fuel or used non sensor safe chemicals, etc...do any of you know where one of these sites are...or can atleast describe what it would look like if it were running lean? (my car is telling me that its running lean...I hope its my O2 sensor rather than my fuel pump)
O2 sensor blues
- Thread starter madhat
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When the O2 starts going south the cross-counts get real slow. You must have a scan tool and watch the cross-counts, they should cycle from 0-255 in less than 90 seconds.
I don't see in your sig if you have a hi-vol pump, if its the stocker, it toast after 16 years, not to mention the sock is probably full of crap clogging it up.
With the mods you have you should have a good pump, like a Walbro 340 and a Hotwire kit on it to get more voltage to it.
I don't see in your sig if you have a hi-vol pump, if its the stocker, it toast after 16 years, not to mention the sock is probably full of crap clogging it up.
With the mods you have you should have a good pump, like a Walbro 340 and a Hotwire kit on it to get more voltage to it.
Hmm, I still have my stock pump laying around but don't remember anything specifically thats different other than if the original "resonator" thingy is still in between the pump outlet and the metal fuel line, then thats a pretty good indication that its the original, usually when an after market pump is put in, the resonator (or whatever its called) is replaced with just a piece of rubber fuel line. Also, the end of the metal fuel line is necked down to go into the resonator, usually this "necked down" part is cut off in order to remove that restriction and get the full use of the diameter of the fuel line.
Also, if there's a load of crap in the fuel sock, that will tell you its been a long time since its was changed.
Removing the tank isn't that hard of a thing to do, use a floor jack and a piece of plywood and its fairly easy for one person to do. Without a jack, then 2 people are needed for removal and install. Be careful not to let any sand/dirt fall into the tank during removal of the lock ring holding the pump assembly.
Since you don't know what in there, replacing with a good Walbro 340 and new sock for about $125 would be good peace of mind. And add a HotWire kit during the process, Casper Electronics has a nice plug and play kit, very easy to install http://www.casperselectronics.com/cgi-local/store/commerce.cgi?product=MUSTHAVE Its $60, or you can make your own if you're electronically inclined for about $10 with parts from Radio shack, but the Caspers unit is very nice and factory looking.
If you don't have a HW kit on there is probably another good indicator that its stock. Fuel system upgrade should be the first thing anyone does before modding a TR, especially with that turbo you have.
I'm also assuming that your chip is properly programmed for the Green stripes, could cause a lean condition if your chip was for bigber injectors. If the chip wasn;t programmmed for those injectors it would be lean all of the time. If only lean at WOT, then the fueling system is suspect given that your fp w/line off is around the 43-45# area.
Also, if there's a load of crap in the fuel sock, that will tell you its been a long time since its was changed.
Removing the tank isn't that hard of a thing to do, use a floor jack and a piece of plywood and its fairly easy for one person to do. Without a jack, then 2 people are needed for removal and install. Be careful not to let any sand/dirt fall into the tank during removal of the lock ring holding the pump assembly.
Since you don't know what in there, replacing with a good Walbro 340 and new sock for about $125 would be good peace of mind. And add a HotWire kit during the process, Casper Electronics has a nice plug and play kit, very easy to install http://www.casperselectronics.com/cgi-local/store/commerce.cgi?product=MUSTHAVE Its $60, or you can make your own if you're electronically inclined for about $10 with parts from Radio shack, but the Caspers unit is very nice and factory looking.
If you don't have a HW kit on there is probably another good indicator that its stock. Fuel system upgrade should be the first thing anyone does before modding a TR, especially with that turbo you have.
I'm also assuming that your chip is properly programmed for the Green stripes, could cause a lean condition if your chip was for bigber injectors. If the chip wasn;t programmmed for those injectors it would be lean all of the time. If only lean at WOT, then the fueling system is suspect given that your fp w/line off is around the 43-45# area.
Also remember, if you can hook up a fp gauge that you can see from the driver seat, you should get 1 lb of fuel pressure for each lb of boost pressure over the base fp w/line off.
So if your base is 43#'s line off, and you hit 15# of boost, you should see 58# of fp. If not getting that, then fuel system inadequate. Bigger pump, HW kit, and new fuel filter. and in take sock.
So if your base is 43#'s line off, and you hit 15# of boost, you should see 58# of fp. If not getting that, then fuel system inadequate. Bigger pump, HW kit, and new fuel filter. and in take sock.
well, its hard to tell...I think it is set for those injectors...the guy before me seems to be a Poston man and their chips are Red's chip(which I have) and they ask what injectors you have on your car. If it does have an upgraded pump and the sock is dirty, do you think I could buy a new sock and go along my way? Are socks also called strainers, or just socks and strainers something different? I have a fresh fuel filter. Also, can I run these injectors into the high 12s with an adequate fuel pump?
thanks 2quik6,
wesley
thanks 2quik6,
wesley
I would think if the pump has been in long enough for the sock to get full of crap, then its time to replace the pump anyway, not to mention for the $125 go ahead and replace it while the tank is off, as my luck is, I would not replace it, put it all back together, then within a week the pump would really fail.
Sock and strainer, same thing, its on the intake side of the pump.
Here's the resonator/pulsator I was talking about before:
http://www.atrperformance.com/product_info.php?cPath=1_4&products_id=78
Here's the 340 pump, but ATR is a little high, ge tthem from Conleys or QuadAir:
http://www.atrperformance.com/product_info.php?cPath=1_4&products_id=144
Can't find a pic of the sock....
High 12's are possible with stock injectors and stock turbo.
There could be other reason's for a lean condition, really need to hook it up to a scan tool to see how its doing in other areas and to make sure the O2 isn't dead, but fuel system would be the first place to look. A scan tool is another must have if your going to be modding a EFI motor. I know, it seems like your spending money for no hp gain, but beleive me, its well worth the investment, not to mention it might save your motor it getting any knock retard on those hard blasts.
your kind of pissin in the wind without one.
A good fp gauge that you can quickly install at the schrader valve on the rail and tape to your windshield is a good investment too for around $30-$40 at your local auto store, Pep Boys had a nice large dial one for around $35.
I've been lookin at scan tools, just havent gotten the money yet...tryin to keep it runnin...much less tuned...tax return comin in soon...I bet I could pull off a scan tool with that...was going to put it towards my convertor/trans but the car has to run to use a tranny
...need...new...keyboard...one/exclamation point key died......what...to...do......
I actually have a fuel pressure gauge in the car...digital(not hooked up)...just need a "T" and schrader valve.
hey kevin,
I think I'll wait till it stops snowin first...
...need...new...keyboard...one/exclamation point key died......what...to...do......
I actually have a fuel pressure gauge in the car...digital(not hooked up)...just need a "T" and schrader valve.
hey kevin,
I think I'll wait till it stops snowin first...
A scan tool is a very good investment. If you happen to have a laptop already, then Turbolink or Direct Scan is the way to go because you can record your passes on them, if no laptop, then ScanMasterII is the popular choice, mounts on dash, and can read all sorts of values, you just can't display them all at the same time and can't record, but is good for finding your lean conditions, blms, O2 cross-counts, etc. etc.
I've never had much luck with a digital fp gauge, it was usually way off on the base pressure, but I gues you can tell if your getting a lb of fp per lb of boost though if it will react fast enough, although it may indicate your base is 25# when its really 42#'s, may want to check it with a cheap rail mount gauge to be sure.
I've never had much luck with a digital fp gauge, it was usually way off on the base pressure, but I gues you can tell if your getting a lb of fp per lb of boost though if it will react fast enough, although it may indicate your base is 25# when its really 42#'s, may want to check it with a cheap rail mount gauge to be sure.
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