Oh the horror!!!!!!!!!!!

[imjoesnuffy]

Well pulled the motor on my 85. Was just going to fix the oil leaks and replace the turbo with a TA 33. Send it off actually. White smoke, no loss of compression or oil/water problems.

Got it out and just to make sure things were ok on the bottom end. I pulled the pan and the main caps. What do I find??

Crank is practically ruined. Not sure if it can be salvaged. Took some pics will get them posted if I can shortly. Lots of bronze color in the oil pan, metal on the pickup and the pan. 1st main cap bearing is practically thru the brass portion of the bearing. Didn't pull the front or rear. Gonna get the whole thing to the shop in 2 weeks. Guess all the metal got to the turbo and got in the bearings and ruined it, hence the turbo going out.

Any idea what could have caused this? 117K on the motor, regular maintenance. Block has never been opened before.

 

[GN84Turbo]

I had a similar incident with my motor once upon a time. It turned out that i had a slow leak in my head gasket..it allowed exhaust gas into the crankcase; it mixed with the oil and turned it black within 600 miles of a fresh oil change. Couldnt figure out the problem till it was too late; threw a rod bearing at the track. The car was running great that night too. Really ruined my night. Just a thought..

Hot weather and a low weight oil could do this also i suppose. I use 10w40 now on my new motor because the turbo generates so much heat, 10w30 wasnt cutting it. I live in california too, it can get hot here. If u live in the northern states where there is snow 6 months a year you can run probably run 10w30 with no problem. Oil pressure for turbo buicks is notoriously low, so on a really hot day with a light oil i could see some damage being done. :frown:

 

[Jerryl]

............. Any idea what could have caused this? 117K on the motor, regular maintenance. Block has never been opened before.

There could be multiple causes for this. Obviously, there was insufficient oil / pressure at the bearings
The question you asked “why”, is not easily answered. Here are a few out of my personal book;
1. Detonation – This can accelerate bearing wear and result in low oil pressure. This is a downward spiral
2. Worn oil pump
3. Insufficient oil / lubrication

Are you the original owner?

 

[imjoesnuffy]

I am the second owner of the car. The prior owner took meticulous care when it came to the maintenance(mechanic). First owner don't know anything about.

Having problems with the pictures. Lots of metal in the bottom of the pan, and on the pickup, I'm guessing oil starvation.

Got some serious decisions to make when it comes to the rebuild. Most of it depends on the crank being salvageable.

Costs of :
new crank
new/rebuilt TA-33
bigger injectors
new chip
machine shop work probably $1000 for boring, balancing, torque plate honing, new freeze plugs, head work, intake porting along with any balancing, reconditioning the rods
new pistons
ARP head studs
possible girdle?? and associated machine work
rebuild kit
Probably in the vicinity of $4000 complete. A lot of money and work for a motor that might be making 450ish HP.

The other option is to just buy an 86/87 motor and part out what I cant use from this one. Would have a lot more power available, and spend a lot less to get it. Easier to tune down the road, more parts available, etc etc.

When I got this car I got it with the intent of keeping it hot air. I am having a hard time justifying to myself spending 4 large on the motor of a car that might be worth 5 total.

Any outside input would be appreciated, this crank really screwed my rebuild up big time. My wife wants me to get rid of it but I'll be damned after all the hard work I have put into it. Besides in my mind they are the coolest cars on the street.

 

[GN84Turbo]

find a used crank. a lot of shops im guessing have some that are still useable. When i had my engine rebuilt (Tim Lee in Rancho Cucamonga, CA; awesome with 3.8s), he had a used 3.8 crank that was still in great shape, saved me a good chunk of cash.

Oh, BTW, if u plan on switching to an 87 motor..keep it on the DL, people around here dont like to hear that :wink:

 

[MoeJr]

"The other option is to just buy an 86/87 motor and part out what I cant use from this one. Would have a lot more power available, and spend a lot less to get it. Easier to tune down the road, more parts available, etc etc."

Now where's my gun?? :biggrin:


I am in the same boat. Looks like my crank may be no good too. Luckily looks like my turbo is ok cause it wasn't run after it started knocking and it didn't smoke.

I am gonna just use a NA crank as my car is gonna be mostly stock. There are guys on here that are running the NA crank in the 10's and 11's. Keep it hotair and use alky and it will make a good ride. Hate to see another HA hacked for an intercooler. Just my .02

Moe

 

[imjoesnuffy]

Was talking with the guy that is gonna do the rebuild for me... He stated the turbo crank is a much stronger piece and pointed out the differences for me. The biggest of which is the rolled edges. I'll ask him about using a NA crank. I don't want to use this one if it has to over 10.

 

[imjoesnuffy]

pics of the carnage

http://photos.yahoo.com/realjoesnuffy