Oil Leak and Smoke under Boost

[BennyBuick]

Apparently I lied, there still is an oil leak. No smoke though. And as far as oil level, it's just about at the max level rather than between the lines. Maybe not "over" filled

 

[BennyBuick]

Are there examples out there of turbo Buick fellows running 20 lbs of boost or more and don't get oil leaks jdsgnx told me that you'll never be able to battle all oil leaks with these cars and is just a reality of owning a turbo Buick. He's not the first to tell me that either. Said that you'll waste years of frustration and money trying to eliminate all of them. Any thoughts?

 

[earlbrown]

People that can't fix oil leaks have been saying that for years.

A healthy engine that is assembled correctly doesn't leak oil.

 

[1952ray]

People that can't fix oil leaks have been saying that for years.

A healthy engine that is assembled correctly doesn't leak oil.

Like Earl said, take the time to fix a leak the right way. Maybe I have some luck,or maybe not. I have zero leaks.

 

[BARRACUDA1968]

My old motor didn't leak at all at 23# boost. Bone dry. It ate the bearings up real good but didn't leak.

The new motor has been bleeding since day one. Had a good leak at the fuel block off plate which I fixed. Haven't driven it enough to know if I have any other leaks but I suspect I do at the rear of the oil pan. I don't really care if it leaks a little as long as it doesn't drip on the crossover pipe. I hate the smell of oil.

I also bought new valve covers and breathers with the baffled grommets. I had one breather that showed use from driving and the other stayed like new. Did some investigating and the baffled grommet didn't have the slit in it to let air out. Fixed that too. If the air can't get out it will push the oil out. I'm going to go with an open grommet and build extensions to get the breathers out of the oil.

Keep in mind this motor hasn't seen more than 15# of boost.

If you really track down any oil leaks get an oil dye kit from the parts store with the black light etc. I chased my leak guessing until I got the kit. Clean up all the oil leaks, pour in the dye and go for a drive. Go back home and put the glasses on from the kit and start looking around with the black light for leaks. The oil will glow greenish yellow. I found my problem in 2 seconds. Before that I couldn't see it. Fresh clean oil and a black motor makes it hard to spot a leak unless it's real bad.

Make sure your pcv is working and when vacuum isn't present the air can get out. That's about all a guy can do.

 

[BennyBuick]

Does brake fluid smell like oil when it's burning on your exhaust? The master cylinder was wayyy low and now that I've filled it I see leaks out of the drum and my pedal feel is still squishy. Maybe it was brake fluid all along or maybe this is just added to the oil leak. That drum is definitely leaking around the flange to the reservoir. I see leaks by the caliper too

 

[earlbrown]

Brake fluid has it's own smell when it burns.


Those leaks are waaaaaaaay more important to fix right now. Not only can they kill you if/when they fail, but leaking brake fluid will eat paint off of whatever it sits on and expose bare metal. (on the upside rubber stuff like tires and bushings will like it )

 

[Chuck Leeper]

B4 you get all wound up and put it on the dyno, find the cause for the knock.
How is the "catch can" plumbed?
What Earl said about the AZ pcv...I use only AC Delco, and check each 1 b4 buying it.

 

[BennyBuick]

It's already been on dyno... I got zero knock every run. Several people have looked at it and chimed in, sounds like false knock is all I've experienced and it goes away immediately. Catch can is connected from top of can to pub and side is routed to top of doghouse distributer

 

[BennyBuick]

*connected from top of can to pcv...not pub lol... darn auto correct

 

[BennyBuick]

had someone smarter than me look at it and told me immediately i need new master cylinder and new calipers. Previous owner told me that the brakes had been converted to vacuum brakes, but not I'm not so sure. How do I tell? I feel like a big dummy asking this simple question, but.... and if I need new master and new calipers, can I get a recommendation on what to buy. Saw on other threads that a '90 caprice master would be an upgrade or monte ss . or are they just talking about the booster? Should I replace booster as well even if it isn't bad? don't know yet if it is or isn't. What calipers should I go with? Now seems like the perfect time to upgrade since i need them anyhow. Need some advice. spend the $ on Baer calipers or is it worth it? decisions decisions. PCV valve is still a stock replacement from autozone...$2. I've been told I need to get a better one. Just get a stock replacement ac delco? or what else is there that's better? thanks everyone

 

[captndave737]

There are 3 types of power brakes on these cars. The original powermaster, has a small electric motor and a very small 3 " or so attached to the master cylinder.

Vacuum brakes, have a large round canister on the firewall and the master cylinder attached to it. The canister has a large vacuum hose attached which usually goes to a modified vacuum block on top of the intake.

Hydroboost, which has a small cast iron booster on the firewall with the master cylinder attached to it. The booster has hydraulic hoses/pipes attached which go to the power steering system.

 

[BennyBuick]

They were definitely vacuum brakes converted probably in the mid 90's . MC was leaking and junk, and I replaced the booster with the bigger one from 19990 caprice and it went perfect. Booster definitely provides better pedal feel and you get more assist, but not too much. Brakes feel good now and after properly bled, it is a decent upgrade for not hardly any more money. Calipers were fine, the issue there was a faulty SS braided brake line that was installed incorrectly. Good to Go