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Oil Presure At Idle ?

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LTD-T

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My car has 170,000 miles.I just installed an oil pressure gauge.
at idle the gauge reads 5 psi.my questions are,is this to low?
and what can I do to increase pressure ?
 
When I had 5 psi on my oil press gage at idle it was because my cam and main brgs were wiped. This happened shortly after my rebuild. With that high of mileage I would say your clearances are probably opened up to cause the low press.

paul
 
If it helps...my car has had around 5 lbs at idle (hot)since it was new...'87. It has about 40-50 lbs. at 1800-2000rpm. I have 150,000 on it with Mobil 1 since new. My wife's Buick had 180,000 miles before we sold it and the oil pressure was the same as mine...LOWWW...from brand new. They start out high (cold) 65-75 pounds, then drop like crazy when warm.

I know I might get flamed, but these engines are low idling pressure from new. I think after all the miles that both of these cars have traveled without any probs, I'm not about to mess with mine at this time. I feel that either of the engines would have crapped out by now if they hadn't been getting enough lubrication. JMO
 
I guess you could try a booster plate first since they are cheap. If it doesn't work just flip a coin on whether to pull it down or run it as-is.
 
Oil Pressure...

I have seen many TR motors idle low including mine. The deal is, the idle pressure isn't near as critical as the pressure needed to sustain the motor at RPM... Make sure it rises at least 10 PSI for every 1000 RPM, this is the general rule, now since we have turbos, they needs lots of oil to cool and lubricate those thrust bearings, so just drive it around, run a good oil, if you are in Texas where we have extreme climate changes and generally the summer time is unbearably hot, I run Valvoline 20w50 VR1 Racing, it has performed well under driving and I change it before 3k everytime. I starte dup a new TR motor once and had 3 PSI oil pressure hot idle.. :eek: No knock, no clatter, purred, but it was too close for me, Id say you need at least 5 to sustain lifters, and just to be on the safe side. If you change oil weights to say 20w50 you are likely to see an increase in pressures from a staright 30 w or 10w30 however this is just because the oil is thicker, and can hold up to the hot temps outside... Basicly I would recommend changing oils, trying a booster plate(they work) or a rebuild. My last motor has great tight clearances and has 20 PSI hot idle in Houston Traffic with AC blasting, and that is a bone stock oiling system with the 20w50 Valvoline Oil... Many different opinions on oils, and many different ideas. Good luck! :D
 
Currently my motor has just over 32000 original miles and when using 10w30 mobil1 my hot oil press. is 15-20psi@ idle when I switched to 15w50 mobil1 the hot press @ idle went up to 25-30psi. so switching weights will bring it up if that will make you comfortable. motors that are near stock power levels or up to 400HP I would recommend using 10w30 minimum for its better shear protection, over 400HP and up 15w50 would have even better shear protection, for summer use or if you live in the south of course. its good to keep in mind were hitting these power levels w/t only 6 cylinders not 8 so better oil is needed for more protection.

later

Frank
 
I'm not a believer in big oil pumps but for a worn out motor it would help, aleast the oil would piss out of the bearings fast enough to get back to the pan in a hurry. I have an idea, don't look at the gauge! You would NEVER know the differance. When it breaks..........It breaks. Then you get to have fun & get dirty :D
 
now mine is weird. Keep in mind i have the stock V8 oil pressure gauge in there which is 0-60 while the TTA one is 0-80. At idle i'm at 30 on my gauge, when i give it gas it'll almost hit 60. I run Castrol GTX 20w50 though.
 
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