Oil Pump Locked Up

can you check the cam to sensor geometry like a ring and pinion?
Yeah. After doing all the work on the Chinese cover, you drop in the cam sensor then get pissed off the pump can't turn anymore.

It's a well documented problem that's been around for decades. (on top of the gear pockets being too deep)
Glad I picked up an extra OEM cover way back when, I almost installed a aftermarket cover I believe to be silver seal...
My friends, reading this is sad to see another GN brother has a new engine get F'd by this.

Can we team up (you smart and experienced members) and the group starts a ....
Go Fund Me, GN USA Timing Cover

This new cover puts an end to all this FOREVER and we get this quality cover 3D Scanned, CAD and then you smart guys created .....

I will donate $250, hell I'll get my Mech Eng friend to 3D Scan and CAD it if that's needed.

Save the baby engines people.
It'll also stop the OEM cover hoarding
Solve the "Did I get a Chinese cover"?
Cure the need of getting drunk and future AA meetings to handle an engine break in and loss. BTW, the time to build an engine in itself is longer than ever due to part delays. Time missed enjoying our GNs.

Who cares if the covers double the price, ask OP if he'd pay $600 for a guaranteed cover/oil gear package that would've stopped this.

I've been out of the game a while but getting good covers seemed easier years ago. I noticed this on my build, damn times have changed.

I know these things take time, who's the leader possible ego stuff, who's gonna make the money etc, I'll donate, you can hold me to this if a serious team is put together. I don't care about any of that, I'm an end gamer getting buried in it.

There's some incredible minds on here and we're getting killer 21st century stuff year after year, let's knock this one out. 💪
I actually looked into doing this years ago. I want to say it was going to cost me a little over $10,000 to get started.

I hit two major hurdles. I have a friend that owns a foundry and I was down there drinking beers (and literally throwing the cans into a crucible) and he told me that it would be cheaper to get China to make the raw castings and machine them here. That really blew my mind as we were surrounded with casting machinery. Turns out they buy castings all the time from China.

The second hurdle was the print. My goad was to get the original GM print, tighten up the gear pocket just a hair, and put my oil mods into the print. That way I could take the raw casting and machine it better than GM and have the flow mods already there.

Amazingly, I found the actual place that made the covers for GM back in the 70's/80's and talked to the grandson of the owner of the shop that runs it now. Turns out they had everything they needed to make it happen, but he said he couldn't share the print because GM still owned it.

So, at that point I was going to try and find a CMM grab 5 or 6 of my NOS covers and figure it out myself. That was pretty much the end of the story as I don't know anyone that could scan it.

A few years ago I figured out that I have a couple engineer friends at Delta that have access to a "laser" scanner and CMMs. Getting the parts through security is an obvious hassle, but most likely not impossible.

Bad part is inflation has kicking the shit out of the price for castings (and shipping so much weight/size).

And, frankly, most people that know the difference between actual GM and silver seal/pioneer/elgin/etc are a small percentage. Seems most of the people working on these cars now, are the facebook guys that don't know shit, yet know everything at the same time.

...and when the engine gets smoked, it's LS swap time for a lot of them.

I'd be willing to do it, but honestly, I don't think it would really work out in this day and age. Not to mention, I'd really hate to be buried with 200 timing cover/oil pumps.
I hate pump çover shims! They often cause a leak. When setting up a pump, I install the gears dry (after detailing them as in post #8) and measure the end clearance with a feeler gauge and either a good straightedge or, my favorite, a ground, finished (all edges) lathe tool bit. If the clearance is tight, I chuck the gear in my (or somebody elses if you don't have one) lathe and remove the correct amount of metal. Don't forget to re detail that end of the gear. This can also be done on a mill with a magnetic chuck, or care, in the milling vice.
This is only for end clearance adjustment, so as not to need end shims, and doesn't compensate for a junk timing cover or misaligned hi volume extension plate.
This is only one reason why pro engine builders get a lot of coin for assembly and detailing, the recovery of machinery purchase costs and time.