%&*$%* oil pump wont prime

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ChrisF

New Member
Joined
Jul 28, 2001
Messages
227
:mad:

Ok guys, what is the trick to getting the oil pump to prime on these cars, short of the obvious; the complete and total PITA of pulling out the cam sensor and using a drill motor to prime the pump??

I just recently changed radiators to the "F body" conversion with a front mounted external cooler. I had the oil filter and lines off of the housing for a bit of time.

I have reassembled everything with the filter as full as can be (about 1/2) and CANNOT get any oil pressure to show on the gauge. I have disconnected the ECM at the batt and cranked a bunch to the point I fear I will burn out the starter. I have also put about 1/2 quart or so of oil down the turbo feed line with a pressurized oil can, figuring this would fill the pump. Nothing.

Thanks in advance for any tips or tricks!

Chris
 
if you don't want to remove the cam sensor, you can remove the oil filter (and adapter) and pack the pump cavity with petroleum jelly (vasoline). this is the procedure outlined in the factory GM service manual for priming the pump.

bw jones
 
you need to make sure the entire oil pump cavity is filled with the petroleum jelly (no air pockets). then put the adapter and filter back on and crank over the engine. you should have oil pressure right away.

bw jones
 
Thanks, I used to do that (the PJelly packing) with my 455 when the pump had to be taken apart. I was told by someone that has some solid GN experience that once you take these pumps apart, they always leak.

Also, more than just the filter and cooler adapter have to come off, no? Arent there 6 bolts that hold the pump together like the 455? Looks like a PITA to get to them as well....

Looking more and more like pulling the cam sensor....ugh

Another thought: Would the cooler being located slightly above the oil pump be making the job harder? I thought of this but the stocker in the radiator is above it as well....

Keep the ideas coming, thanks again!

Chris
 
Hi,
This is a very unsettling problem, especially on a fresh motor. I have seen this on an old, worn hard vin A before (we were changing the oil) , and we packed the pump, but I don't think it was vaseline we used. I was freakin' out, because I had ONLY done an oil change. An older guy settled me down, and we pulled the pump/oil filter cover and packed it full of what I suspect was chassis grease. That did the trick. I have never forgot that one. Talk about an oil change biting one in the ass!
Back to your problem,I strongly suspect that your new motor has oil pump issues. I just finished a motor myself,packed the pump with lithium grease,primed it on the stand, and had NO problems consequently.I am using a stock timing cover with a stock Melling set of gears and their heaviest relief spring. I have stock bearings,set as tight as is possible, about .0015.
I would STRONGLY recommend that you pack the oil pump. I know it's extra work, but checking your cover and gears for clearance would be a damn good idea. Good luck with your issue!
Dale
 
Mechanical or electric oil pressure gauge?? I have an electric gauge and it doesn't show oil pressure when cranking. Is this what you are going by or do you actually have the motor started and no pressure.
 
Is the front cover new?

If so then maybe it has the infamous casting flash completely blocking oil passage.

Then all you have to do is drill out the flash, clean it up and you're good to go.
 
WHY??? Is iy such a PITA to prime with a drill???? Takes about 30 min including setting the cam sensor from start to finish. Another 30 mins to pack with vasoline & your good to go. This is a new motor so be HAPPY if thats ALL the Problems you find after firing it up!
 
here is the easiest method: take off top oil cooler line tape a funnel to it pour in 1/4-1/2 qt oil hold upright while taking a large std. screwdriver turning pump shaft counter clockwise watching the oil from funnel get sucked in.then get a pump priming tool(small block chevy) clockwise to pump shaft to prime engine.
 
Is this a new engine? I thought he just said he changed radiators/coolers. Anyway, if it were me I'd just pop the cam sensor and prime it with a drill. It really isn't a big deal and I would guess you've already spent more time trying other "easier" and "faster" stuff and posting here than it would have taken to just do that and be driving the car. Something to think about.
 
Thanks for all the tips guys!

NO ONE said this was a new motor! It has 100k on it and was running fine a week ago, before the rad swap. Looks as if I am pulling the cam sensor. I haven't done one on this car yet, looks to be a PITA but sounds like it looks worse than it is.

Thanks!

Chris
 
I wouldn't buy a new cap unless you need it. You know, the old if it's not broke don't fix it thing. Here is a link to the cam sensor setting procedure if you need it. Enjoy. james

Cam Sensor Information
 
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