oil types

[80booya]

What types of oil everyone use in there cars....

I have a fresh motor with 1000 miles now and looking to change the break in oil again...what should i use?

amsoil whatcha think and what formula
royal purple whatcha think and with or without the xpr?
redline oil what you think and again what formula and weights on all thanks Tim

 

[turbo nasty]

Valvoline racing dino oil with zddpplus added. Synthetic is not needed

 

[liv4gnz]

wouldnt synthetic be better because it flows better cold and is needed for turbo applications?

the question should be why not synthetic?

 

[DetroitMuscle]

I use Mobil 1 (synthetic)

 

[Nick Micale]

you asked...........

wouldnt synthetic be better because it flows better cold and is needed for turbo applications?

the question should be why not synthetic?

Here is my list for "why not":

Twice as expensive

Not NEEDED for turbo application

Drains down from bearings in 2-3 days if engine is not run

Does not have sufficient EP protection for rings, bearings, pistons & lifters

Turbo engines need frequent oil changes as boost helps contaminate oil quickly

Cannot find a reason why synthetic is better

Twice as expensive

 

[DetroitMuscle]

Synthetic oil question

When or why should synthetic motor oil be used ony ANY vehicle

 

[thewoodieb]

Boo for synthetic.

Im going to have to agree with Nick. Synthetic is not necessary, for one the Government has banned zddp from all motor oils, synthetic(including Mobil1), conventional and Rotella. It was the one thing that protected engines from substantial wear, but the epa saw otherwise. Conventional is less expensive and beyond what all the commercials state it doesn't sludge. Sludge is a bi-product of overheating or "cooking oil". The ZDDPlus additive to a 10w-40 conventional protects as well as a racing oil at a fraction of the price. As far as cold flow rate with synthetic being better than that of conventional is incorrect, Oil viscosity is determined by SAE or American Society of Automotive Engineers, the number 10 in 10w-40 is the oils viscosity at 0 degrees farenheit, the W means winter grade oil, the 40 is the oils viscosity at 500 degrees farenheit. So the colder the thinner, the hotter the thicker(to its stated SAE ratings), this stuff doesn't act like syrup by getting thicker as it gets colder. Now synthetic does do something that conventional can't and thats get into all those tight little spaces. Synthetic oil has a much lower anatomical mass then conventional allowing it to "lubricate better", which in actuality is not true, it does reach the small spaces, and then some. On top of "lubricating" it also breaks seals, quickly. Smaller atoms means more leaks. Plus, synthetic does very little to hold up it's end on oil clearance, hence Nicks reason for stating its draining habits. Conventional is much better for cold starts, much cheaper, and with a bottle of zddplus or some other zddp additive then your engine will live much MUCH longer then with Synthetic. Hope I was some help.

 

[Nick Micale]

Disclaimer............

When or why should synthetic motor oil be used ony ANY vehicle

Another good question!:biggrin:

My comments above are applicable primarily for turbo Buicks that are performance vehicles, not driven daily [usually] and when driven, it is mostly in a "spirited" manner. [Oil change 10 miles to 2000 miles]

The Buick V-6 design goes back to 60's development and design. I have no issue using a synthetic in my 2008 truck or wife's 2009 car, neither of which is a performance vehicle, and they are driven daily. [Oil change every 5-7000 miles]

There is no "on size fits all" oil in this 50 year period, not to mention the many different driving styles, weather conditions, etc.

To provide information on a product or a recommendation, the necessary and proper conditions must be stated for it to be valid. My limited "tech" knowledge and hands-on experience is mainly Buicks up to 1987, and do not necessarily apply to any vehicle beyond that.

 

[thewoodieb]

Another good question!:biggrin:

My comments above are applicable primarily for turbo Buicks that are performance vehicles, not driven daily [usually] and when driven, it is mostly in a "spirited" manner. [Oil change 10 miles to 2000 miles]

The Buick V-6 design goes back to 60's development and design. I have no issue using a synthetic in my 2008 truck or wife's 2009 car, neither of which is a performance vehicle, and they are driven daily. [Oil change every 5-7000 miles]

There is no "on size fits all" oil in this 50 year period, not to mention the many different driving styles, weather conditions, etc.

To provide information on a product or a recommendation, the necessary and proper conditions must be stated for it to be valid. My limited "tech" knowledge and hands-on experience is mainly Buicks up to 1987, and do not necessarily apply to any vehicle beyond that.

If I could add, Ford uses conventional on their 09's. Also, reguardless of what most oil bottles state, unless your driving highway speeds all day everyday and even then you should ALWAYS change your oil every 3-5000 miles MAX conventional or synthetic!!! Those bottles stating don't change your oil for 15,000 miles are a gimic and thats all, oil gets dirty whenever it wants, detergents allow for the life, but the oil remains the same reason being for all of the oil dumps at your local recyclers and part stores. Dirty oil is hands down the number one reason for excessive engine wear, so do you really wanna drive around with that black muck for another 10,000 miles?

 

[DetroitMuscle]

Some good points are made:wink:

 

[49-blues]

How about DELVO from Chevron Diesel synthetic oil-has a high zinc amount,been using it on 4 cars-5000 miles oil changes-absolutely no problems-best part $10. a gallon at Walmart.?

 

[thewoodieb]

Rotella

Even a zinc count is not enough, which is why I stated zddp(Zinc dithiophosphate) which is a soluble AFTERMARKET additive. Dithiophosphate more or less is a scientific term for lead, which cushions the blow of valves to valve seats and rod to crank bearings at combustion. Zinc will protect well, much better then nothing at all, but a sure bet is to have the full combination. Also, how long have you been using the Diesel spec oil? My resources state that zinc was recently removed from all rotella formulas. Try Mack approved oils, from what I hear these oils still carry a decent formula. If it were me, I would spend the money I was saving to buy a bottle of zddp additive.

 

[49-blues]

i ve been using diesel synthetic for 2 years over 60,000 miles and throw in a bottle of eos every 6 months-i use chevron not the rotella-classified for turbo diesel and gas engines.

 

[gnxtc2]

Diesel oils are not formulated for high rpm use. Diesel engines turn at low rpms, max around 3500 rpm.

I was running Rotella in my 109 motor and after a run, the oil was full of tiny bubbles. That gave me enough info and switched. I run the Rotella in my 7.3 PSD which it was made for.

I now run Brad Penn oil in my V6.

Billy T.
gnxtc2@aol.com

 

[JP112_89]

Yeah,

I have been using Pennzoil Synthetic 5w30 w/ the red STP.

I am switching to Castrol conv. 5w30 with a bottle of Zddp additive.

 

[BlackBandit]

I run Valvoline 0w-20 conventional.

One thing I didn't see (and maybe I'm blind) but is the OP running a roller or flat tappet cam? I know there's other things to consider but IMO that goes a long way on deciding what oil and additive package to run.

 

[49-blues]

Billy T-even the synthetic oils? not for high RPMS? When i ran 15,000 mobil 1-i changed the filter and added a fresh quart every 3000 miles and did a full change every 15,000 miles ,i switched to chevron delvo-everything runs fine at half the cost of mobil 1!

 

[Dave]

I agree that viscosity is defined as thickness. However, I believe Mobil 1 has the ability to FLOW FASTER, regardless of temperature down to 35 below zero.

I proved this to myself by putting a quart of Mobil1 and a quart of conventional Mobil oil outside overnight when the temperature was 10 below zero. Both oils were 10w30. The synthetic poured (Flow) much faster than the conventional oil. The conventional oil poured so slow it was scary.

Mobil 1 also has a wider operating temperature range than conventional oil. Thus giving it an ability to resist deposit formation under extremely high temperatures as in turbo charged engines.

I use Mobil 1 10w30 with a bottle of zddp.


Here are some of the levels of phosphorus and zinc in Mobil 1 products.
Mobil 1 15w50...........1200ppm of phosphorus, 1300 ppm of zinc
Mobil 1 10w30...........800ppm of phosphorus, 900 ppm of zinc
Mobil 1 0w20 Racing...1750ppm of phosphorus, 1850 ppm of zinc
Mobil 1 0w30 Racing...1750ppm of phosphorus, 1850 ppm of zinc

 

[jpwalt1987]

I agree that viscosity is defined as thickness. However, I believe Mobil 1 has the ability to FLOW FASTER, regardless of temperature down to 35 below zero.

I proved this to myself by putting a quart of Mobil1 and a quart of conventional Mobil oil outside overnight when the temperature was 10 below zero. Both oils were 10w30. The synthetic poured (Flow) much faster than the conventional oil. The conventional oil poured so slow it was scary.

Mobil 1 also has a wider operating temperature range than conventional oil. Thus giving it an ability to resist deposit formation under extremely high temperatures as in turbo charged engines.

I use Mobil 1 10w30 with a bottle of zddp.


Here are some of the levels of phosphorus and zinc in Mobil 1 products.
Mobil 1 15w50...........1200ppm of phosphorus, 1300 ppm of zinc
Mobil 1 10w30...........800ppm of phosphorus, 900 ppm of zinc
Mobil 1 0w20 Racing...1750ppm of phosphorus, 1850 ppm of zinc
Mobil 1 0w30 Racing...1750ppm of phosphorus, 1850 ppm of zinc

Where are you finding "mobil 1 Racing oil"? I thought that their 15w50 was the closest thing to a "racing oil". Do Tell!!

 

[87GN_70GS]

How about DELVO from Chevron Diesel synthetic oil

Do you mean Chevron DELO or or Mobil DELVAC?

If its DELO 400 LE, then that's a good one.