Ok, I had a lifter tapping and pulled the intake...

[TT/Ameasap]

update

I have the cam out and roller cam/lifters are on the way. What is next? TDC or just put the cam in and then do TDC?

 

[turbofabricator]

Didi you order the whole roller cam kit? Who's kit? With a roller cam you also need new shorter pushrods and springs. It is also a good idea to replace the rocker shafts with a hardened shaft kit or roller rockers are even better. (which requires taller valve covers, too) The roller cam kit installes pretty easy, BUT you will need to have a little more than just basic skills to set the thrust clearance correctly. (.006") The hardest part about installing a roller cam is the thrust clearance set-up. It's not horrific, but it does take a little persistance and patience. (not to mention a couple of timing cover gaskets, too.)

 

[Chuck Leeper]

Do It Right!!

Engine goes on a stand, and the entire setup is gone thru.
The pic you posted of that main brg looks to be toast. At 1K mi, and a cam failure, you will find the crud that you see in the pan, is also imbedded in the brgs, including the cam brgs, the oil pump hsg, oil cooler, cooler lines, etc.
Furthermore, you must set the crank end play, after removing the thrust brg. Doing that in the car, is risky business.
Setting the cam up correctly will be MUCH easier w/ the engine out, where you can get at it.:biggrin:

 

[MikeL.]

Thrust bearing clearance

If I remember correctly, the spring loaded rollerized bearing keeps the walk to a minimum. Again this is with the Austempered rolller setups. The Billet roller setups may work differently. I thought they used a retainer plate that bolts to the block instead of the bearing/spring combo.

 

[SouthernCal GN]

Roller is roller. The spring button (OE or otherwise) keeps the flat tappet cam from walking forward due to the taper on the lobes, and has some give. Roller cams lobes are ground flat (no taper).

The shimmed cam button (no spring) does essentially the same thing for the roller cam, but the clearances are set during assembly. Don't want to use the spring setup on a roller cam!

 

[TT/Ameasap]

Wow! I am grtting all kinds of different info from people and board members on these subjects.

I just want the car running. What do I have to do?

 

[Turbo1dr]

Don't want to use the spring setup on a roller cam!

Just to confuse him more...I have used a stock thrust button/spring on the hub of a ATR billet roller for about 8 years without a problem.


TT/Ameasap,

The VERY BEST thing to do is to do a complete rebuild again. That way you will know you will have a clean, metal free engine. Also, although I have had success with the stock thrust button I agree it's a good idea that a solid adjustable roller thrust button should be used so you know the cam doesn't walk forward.

 

[LEGACY_GN]

#4 lifter is worn badly. Wiped lobe is the problem. I am thinking the springs from the champion heads were too much load on this cam. I am going to inspect the bearings here shortly and report back.

Thanks for the help so far.

I got the champion heads too and same lobe wiped. 11k miles on motor

going roller cam.

 

[MikeL.]

Just to confuse him more...I have used a stock thrust button/spring on the hub of a ATR billet roller for about 8 years without a problem.

I have a rollerized spring on the hub of a Comp roller, no problems here either.


The VERY BEST thing to do is to do a complete rebuild again. That way you will know you will have a clean, metal free engine.

That's exactly what I did. I found a rebuilt shortblock that I bought off a board member and I was $$ ahead versus having my engine rebuilt. Plus now I have a spare

 

[smurfyRX3]

I know this is a little off the subject... but is there a book you would reccomend for a noob like myself to learn about rebuilding these engines?

 

[TT/Ameasap]

To All That Helped......

Thanks... It runs great!!!

 

[cabech984]

What did you end up doing to the engine? Rebuild, or what?