orig paint removal?
- Thread starter the wrath
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Get it media blasted. You can go to Blast Away Technologies at 606 e. Irving Park Rd in Bensenville or Imperial Blasting at 160 e 168th in South Holland. I've used both, I like Imperial Blasting better because they mix a mineral in with the media which helps remove minor rust and also leaves a nice ready surface so you can spray primer right away, just be careful to inspect the whole car over with someone from the facility before and after blasting because they ruined the roof and trunk of my Chevelle. The had to have used too much pressure and it warped the metal pretty bad. The same happened to my friends Mustang and both times we were told that those areas where loaded with bondo which was untrue because both cars had original paint. Turn around time is also rather quick with Imperial. Hope this helped you. If your looking for a good bodyman/painter pm me, I can help.
Mike
Mike
That's the fastest
It took me 1 1/2 years with a couple gallons of air craft stripper and lots of DA pads. Called around, cheapest I could get it blasted for was $1500. I probably did it for $125 worth of materials and lots of blood, sweats and tears. HOWEVER, I sure do appreciate it now every time I go out and someone says, "nice car".
My .02
It took me 1 1/2 years with a couple gallons of air craft stripper and lots of DA pads. Called around, cheapest I could get it blasted for was $1500. I probably did it for $125 worth of materials and lots of blood, sweats and tears. HOWEVER, I sure do appreciate it now every time I go out and someone says, "nice car".
My .02
SuperSport30
New Member
- Joined
- Nov 5, 2006
- Messages
- 20
plastic media blast is the way to go if you are looking for something that wont profile the metal (scuff it up). soda blasting has come a long way but im still sceptical, it creates lots of dust unless it is sprayed wet. i blast with
maxi-blast 12-16 urea (plastic) which is pretty standard ,wont warp sheetmetal but it will rough up aluminium and chew up plastic trim .you will need to apply an epoxy primer over bare metal.epoxy is one of the only primers that does not require a physical bite to adhere to the metal, only a chemical one.
your next option IMO would be aluminum oxide /glass bead, the finish i get is around 100 grit and i have excellent results. i can blow off the metal, and /or spray it down with laquer thinner and blow it off ,then epoxy or etch prime right over it. it could also be heavy primed with a polyester based high build primer that could be blocked and recoated multiple times for crisp lines and truly flat panels.
also, if you have people warping sheetmetal,someone is not doing thier job correctly. the most agressive media i have is my alox/glass bead mix, i can remove paint, bodyfiller and rust and the metal will be only slightly noticiblely warm to the touch, bare handed. your hood gets a great deal hotter than that sitting in the sun. the system i use a high volume of air at a low pressure. 200cfm at 20-30 pounds of pressure.
i would recommend talking to them about thier own projects and asking what they use on them. everything i blast with i blasted my own cars first and i have them sitting where my customers can touch them, bare metal.
only a car guy knows how to treat your car. as far as the chem strip option and da sander route goes, ive done it and paid for it. chem strip blowing back on me, and eating me.it hurts and it will eat your liver as well ,read the back of the can. da is alot of time, alot of discs and alot of work,have fun on the door jams with a wire wheel. if you have any rust you ll have to treat it with a converter before you prime it or it will bubble. if its blasted and done properly the rust is removed. lastly, take everything apart ,remove all you can, the more you remove the better they can do thier job. what you cant remove , duct tape with two layers to minimize damage to it.
hope ive helped and let us know how it goes!
maxi-blast 12-16 urea (plastic) which is pretty standard ,wont warp sheetmetal but it will rough up aluminium and chew up plastic trim .you will need to apply an epoxy primer over bare metal.epoxy is one of the only primers that does not require a physical bite to adhere to the metal, only a chemical one.
your next option IMO would be aluminum oxide /glass bead, the finish i get is around 100 grit and i have excellent results. i can blow off the metal, and /or spray it down with laquer thinner and blow it off ,then epoxy or etch prime right over it. it could also be heavy primed with a polyester based high build primer that could be blocked and recoated multiple times for crisp lines and truly flat panels.
also, if you have people warping sheetmetal,someone is not doing thier job correctly. the most agressive media i have is my alox/glass bead mix, i can remove paint, bodyfiller and rust and the metal will be only slightly noticiblely warm to the touch, bare handed. your hood gets a great deal hotter than that sitting in the sun. the system i use a high volume of air at a low pressure. 200cfm at 20-30 pounds of pressure.
i would recommend talking to them about thier own projects and asking what they use on them. everything i blast with i blasted my own cars first and i have them sitting where my customers can touch them, bare metal.
only a car guy knows how to treat your car. as far as the chem strip option and da sander route goes, ive done it and paid for it. chem strip blowing back on me, and eating me.it hurts and it will eat your liver as well ,read the back of the can. da is alot of time, alot of discs and alot of work,have fun on the door jams with a wire wheel. if you have any rust you ll have to treat it with a converter before you prime it or it will bubble. if its blasted and done properly the rust is removed. lastly, take everything apart ,remove all you can, the more you remove the better they can do thier job. what you cant remove , duct tape with two layers to minimize damage to it.
hope ive helped and let us know how it goes!
- Joined
- May 28, 2001
- Messages
- 16,621
We use plastic/low psi blast, and/or aircraft stripper.
Solid areas, such as door jams, trunk opening lips, firewall,rockers, core support, door edges, are done with lowered psi and Dupont Starblast.
Large, "floppy" areas, such as door skins, hoods, trunk lids,1/4's, roof areas, are all stripped w/ stripper. In NO CASE do we use pressurized blasting on the undersides of areas such as hoods, trunks, etc.
Once all stripping is done, we go over the entire car w/ 80G and a D/A. The entire car is then wiped down w/ a scotchbrite and MUST FOR RUST rust inhibitor. [HD@$8.00a bottle.] As long as the car is in dry storage, the MFR will protect it for up to a yr.
As we work each panel, such as hood, trunk, doors, we first go over the area w/ prepsol cleaner, then the D/A w/180 on it. Another wipe w/ prepsol, and the panel is sprayed w/ DP 90, etc. The panel is then ready for body working.
Works for me....
Solid areas, such as door jams, trunk opening lips, firewall,rockers, core support, door edges, are done with lowered psi and Dupont Starblast.
Large, "floppy" areas, such as door skins, hoods, trunk lids,1/4's, roof areas, are all stripped w/ stripper. In NO CASE do we use pressurized blasting on the undersides of areas such as hoods, trunks, etc.
Once all stripping is done, we go over the entire car w/ 80G and a D/A. The entire car is then wiped down w/ a scotchbrite and MUST FOR RUST rust inhibitor. [HD@$8.00a bottle.] As long as the car is in dry storage, the MFR will protect it for up to a yr.
As we work each panel, such as hood, trunk, doors, we first go over the area w/ prepsol cleaner, then the D/A w/180 on it. Another wipe w/ prepsol, and the panel is sprayed w/ DP 90, etc. The panel is then ready for body working.
Works for me....
- Joined
- May 28, 2001
- Messages
- 16,621
The latest project..
using the procedures in my previous post.
This is oem color, and is in PPG B/C.
using the procedures in my previous post.
This is oem color, and is in PPG B/C.
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