Otc Monitor 85

[b4black]

Originally posted by pat83t
With the WOT blasts, I got all the way up to 21 degrees retarded in the knock sensor.

I would be willing to bet most/all is false knock. Try grabbing the bottom of the DP by the converter and shakeing it. You'll likely find it can move around and bang into things. Also, open your hood and power brake the engine. I will probably move quite a bit. False knock won't blow headgaskets, but it will pull timing out.

 

[b4black]

Re: HELP

Originally posted by pat83t
Then as I was driving down the road I hit the "0" key to trigger the air pump solenoid and it smoothed completely out ....

Be careful with that if you still have a converter. It might fry the first half or the 2 part converter (the half before the AIR tube).

The AIR pump dumps to either the converter or the exhaust ports in the heads (via the intake manifold). Since both are after the combustion chamber, neither effects the actual mixture, but at the exhaust ports is before the oxygen sensor, so it confuses it. This is why it only pumps to here in open loop.

I'm not real familiar with dwell, but I think the number is what is being commanded to the MC solenoid, not what it is actually doing (ECM output vs input). Does the oxygen sensor go lean-rich-lean-rich quickly? Does it go rich when you go WOT? (Rich is >.450V and lean is <.450V) Something's wrong with the dwell, but I'm not sure it's in the carb.

With scan tool connected, and key on/engine off, can your here the MC solenoid clicking?

Also, does the MAP change with vacuum/boost pressure?


PS - if you are running real lean, maybe that knock is real. Take it easy till we figure this out first.

 

[pat83t]

No prob about the converter, only thing left of that is the casing. The oxygen sensor does fluctuate (now), and it does go rich during WOT. With key on/ engine off the MC solenoid clicks for about 15-20 seconds then stops. MAP sensor only is reading vacuum because the guy that put my motor in didn't bother to splice this into the right line. I am going to do this but what do I use? Do I use plastic vacuum tee's? Will they stand up to fuel going through there also? Do I need to clamp them to make sure they don't blow off during boost? Nobody locally could answer this for me. I even called the manufactuer of the vacuum t's and asked if they would stand up to air/fuel mixture going through them and they told me they would get back to me and never did.

 

[b4black]

The T's and line don't need to be special. They do use the little spring loaded clamps like those that come with in-line fuel filters. (15 psi isn't a whole ot of pressure to worry about.) The MAP T's into pressure circuit between the compressor foor and WG actuator. It might be easier to T into the same line going to the boost gauge/switch.

Also, make sure the MAP sensor has a orange key inside it and on the wiring harness.

1981-1983 MAP and BARO SENSORS - On a NA engine, the MAP and BARO are actually two sensors, but the are the same. Both are 1 bar, blue units. With the engine off, they will read the same. (The BARO is located near the ECM and has no hose connected to it). On a turbo V6, they will not read the same. 0 vacuum is full scale on the NA MAP and BARO, but mid scale on the Turbo MAP. This is becuase the Turbo MAP needs to go above 0 vacuum (aka boost).

With my OTC scan tool I get
BARO: 100 kPa or 4.70 V (full scale)
MAP Off: 52 kPA or 2.34 V
MAP idle: 26 kPa or 0.68 V
MAP 2 psi: 62 kPa or 2.70 V
(The MAP at 15 psi would be full scale 100 kPA or 5.00 V)
BARO and MAP off pressures are the same ambient air pressure, but different scale, so the Turbo V6 scale is off by a factor of two, because it's a 2 bar sensor (or 200 kPa). 52 x 2 = ~100. NOTE: Some scan tools may correct for this.

 

[pat83t]

Well thanks again Rich for the answers to my questions. Now I can hook it up without worry. The MAP sensor line and the boost light line already have a T and run off the same port off the back of the carb. (vacuum only). I will just put another T into the wastegate line off the compressor foot and tie them in there. I will also get my boost lights back then.