Pinion Yoke help

[kidrick]

In the process of upgrading my pinion yoke to a Denny's Driveshaft 1350. Old yoke is off. Failed to mark yoke and pinion. New yoke is inplace with a new pinion seal. I noticed the new nut from Denny's has some small stops that won't let me tighten down the new yoke to fit into the pinion seal. New yoke has shorter shaft then stock, so I removed the dust shield over the seal too. So I tightened down the new yoke using the stock bolt just enough so the new yoke shaft went into the seal and fluid didn't leak out. Car has sat for two days and no fluid is leaking, but I would like to know what I should torque the nut down to. Crush sleeve has not been changed.

I've searched on pinion yoke torque and replacement, but I'm up in the air on the specs with the stock crush sleeve, aftermarket yoke and torque ranges from 20 in/lbs preload to 60ft/lbs and be done with it.

Anyone else have one of these yokes?

 

[GNTurboTommy]

go buy a new crush sleeve.

 

[Major Nutz]

I did the same as you, removed the dust shield & replaced the seal. I went to 125 ft. lbs. after talking to Denny's. No problem yet.
Mike

 

[kidrick]

Did you change the crush sleeve and did you use the nut from Denny's or the stock nut? Did you have any issues with the stops on the Denny's nut?

 

[Major Nutz]

I did not replace the crush sleeve, just the seal. I did have to try a few differant sockets to get the nut that Denny's came with to work. I think I wound up useing a Snap-on thin wall socket to get in there.

 

[49-blues]

What's wrong with the stock nut-can't it be reused? I just bought a new yoke too but haven't installed it yet.

 

[kidrick]

Thanks Major Nutz,

The socket I'm using fits fine in the yoke to torque the nut. My question was, on the nut that came with the new yoke there are three ridges at the end where the threads are raised up a little. I don't want to mess up my threads on the pinion by torquing this nut down, or do these bumps just help lock the new nut onto the pinion better? Did you notice these raised threads on your install and should I not be worried about it?

Thanks,
Jason

 

[kidrick]

Well, I called Denny's Driveshaft and the ridges are just a crush nut to lock the nut on. So I'll torque it down to 125ft/lbs unless I hear otherwise to change my mind.

Thanks all for the help.

 

[RmvBfrFlght]

Well, I called Denny's Driveshaft and the ridges are just a crush nut to lock the nut on. So I'll torque it down to 125ft/lbs unless I hear otherwise to change my mind.

Thanks all for the help.

The other things to do is to use a thread sealing compound on the yoke/pinion splines, and red locktite on the nut/pinon threads. The thread sealing compound prevents the diff oil from leaking past the splines. I use the Permatex white Teflon paste type.

And be sure to put some oil on the seal to yoke surfaces.

RemoveBeforeFlight

 

[mousemobile]

Torquing it to 125 lb*ft will get it tight without crushing the sleeve any more than it was already crushed.

To crush the sleeve, you need upwards of 300 lb*ft of torque. On the big axles (10.5) you need a very stout table, vise, a five foot cheater just to crush the sleeve (400 - 500 lb*ft).

I was a manufacturing engineer at an axle plant. One the things done in my department is to set pinion preload.