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Pink wire replacement for the 87 ignition upgrade

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85 ttypewh1

fire fighter
Joined
Jul 25, 2004
Messages
511
According to Caspers web site if you do the 87 ignition upgrade to a 84-85 gn you need to replace a resistance pink wire somewhere with a solid 16 ga wire. Has anyone done this, is it needed. What pink wire are they talking about. Just did the 87 coil and module and car runs fine, but did not do the pink wire replacement. Thanks
 
Pink Wire

Did this myself. Didn't use Casper adapter, did the junkyard harness thing. So to answer your question, if you open the wiring loom you'll find ( at least in my 84) the pink wire splits into 2 pink resistantce wires all the way to the firewall block. We unbolted it from the firewall, used a pick type tool to unplug the wire from the block, replaced it to the new harness. Remember to do all connection with soldier iron.
 
I tried the junkyard method - but scrapped it for the Caspers harness. The Caspers harness was too simple.

Reason I switched from Junkyard method - I had a no start condn. Found out later it was the injectors..... buy the harness - save urself some hassle
 
I allready did the conversion, using the harness and such from caspers... if i used their adapter harness, do I still need to do anything with this pink wire, or does their harness take care of that? This is the first I have ehard about this, and I would be kinda pissed if Caspers sold me all the parts to do the conversion, and didnt once mention to me that I'd need to fiddle with the wiring in addition. I just wanna make sure I do things right, ya know?
 
I used the conv harness and never fiddled with anything else.
Im sure that it all you will need.

Mine works great !
 
Here is what the caspers forum stated.
john@caspers
Posted: Nov 2 2004, 08:00 AM
In response to questions regarding the CCCI ignition system, I am hoping to shed some light on how the ignition system works, and what is involved in converting the hot air cars to the later CCCI system:

CCCI Information

The ignition modules on all years of turbo engines all have the "handshake" signals in the proper location at the ECM, so it's not necessary to replace the ignition modules when upgrading the ECM. The only difference between the years is the lack of airtemp sensor on the hot air cars. That being said, I would recommend upgrading the ignition system, if for no other reason, the age of the 84-85 ignition system. Also, replacement cost of the hot air module is staggering...and the 87 style is much less $$ to use. You would need the plug-in adapter and the mounting plate to convert to the newer style module, along with a CCCI module, coil, and gasket for the 87 setup. Spark firing order is embossed into the coil, but you need to be sure you install the coil properly, since it can be installed backwards. You MUST remove the pink "resistance wire" that's part of the 84-85 engine harness, and replace it with a solid 16 gage copper wire. This resistance wire was needed on the high current early coil to minimize coil saturation, but the later style didn't require it. If you don't remove the resistance wire, your 87 style coil won't put out an adequate spark under load (backfiring and breaking up at top of the gear) so it's necessary.

Hope this makes sense,
-John

I just need to know which wire, and what pin location on both ends so i can overlay a new wire.
 
Thats a new one to me.

I replaced the coil and module without altering the pink resistance wire.
I have had no driveability issues.

Only thing I did was put the adapter wire conversion harness in place.
 
So I wonder if you put a non resistance wire to the hotair coil pack and module it will give a hotter spark? My car doesn't like to fire under high boost, plugs have to be gapped at .025 at 20psi or it misfires. I have a feeling not replacing the resistance wire with the 87 pack and module would be fine on a near stock car but as power levels rise, it would have trouble firing.
 
Just measured my voltage at the module conn. for both pink/black wires and got 11.6 for pin n and 11.7 on pin p with Key on engine off with 12.3 battery voltage. Could I do a hotwire, could i go from the batt post on the back of the alt to a fuse then to the relay in and trigger the relay off one of the pink/black wires. And run the other hot wire from the relay out to either pin n or p. Which pin needs to see 12v+ n or p.
 
GT CHARLEY said:
Did this myself. Didn't use Casper adapter, did the junkyard harness thing. So to answer your question, if you open the wiring loom you'll find ( at least in my 84) the pink wire splits into 2 pink resistantce wires all the way to the firewall block. We unbolted it from the firewall, used a pick type tool to unplug the wire from the block, replaced it to the new harness. Remember to do all connection with soldier iron.

So did the firewall block have 1 or 2 pink wires to unpin and replace or did it have 1 wire at the block and split to 2 wires going to the mod. conn. Because i have 2 pink/black wires pin n and p at the mod. conn.
 
I just sent an e-mail to Caspers regarding this question. I pretty much told them that all I had done to convert my ignition was install the new module and coil using their adapter and harness, and asked if I needed to do anything else in addition to this, specifically if I needed to change anything around with this "resistance wire". I will let you guys know when i get a reply. I know there are a lot of guys running the converted ignition, and I'm sure that if, in addition to just installing to compenents, there is additional wiring work to be done, that it will come as news to a lot of folks. I just want to do everything I can to make sure any work I do on my car is done right, as I'm sure you guys can understand. I'll let y'all know as soon as I hear anything from Casper's.
 
Just got done hot wiring my coil power. Went from the Batt, to a fuse, to a relay, out of the relay to pin p on the orig conn. Used the old pin p resistance wire to trigger the relay, then did the plug and play harness. I did the 87 coil, module, and plug and play first and saw an improvement in idle and acceleration with no knock then did this hotwire and got a little smoother idle. Did not get a chance to drive for WOT but the hot wire did help the idle a little more.
 
Pink Wire

85 ttypewh1 said:
So did the firewall block have 1 or 2 pink wires to unpin and replace or did it have 1 wire at the block and split to 2 wires going to the mod. conn. Because i have 2 pink/black wires pin n and p at the mod. conn.


The pink wire @ the firewall block, comes from the coil harness, splits to 2 wires, then head to the block, then ties back together @ connection in the firewall block. It's not brain surgery or rocket science, really! I have done other auto wiring projects, so I took my time & 2 hours later, down the street I went. :D
 
has anyone checked the voltage at the coil where the 2 pink wires come out with the plug disconnected . I get 11.81 on one wire and 11.94 on the other with the key on engine off . and I did not do any wire up grade.... :confused:


has any one found low voltage on any of these wires??? caspers told me you should see low voltage on the pink wire (Pin M on mine) but I have no low voltage.

Did any one test theres before they rewired it to see if the volts was lower on one of the wire????
 
Hey bot, i did that read post #9. It was with the conn disconnected. know i get full Batt voltage at the connector.
 
hey 85 ttypewh1, did you hot wire both pink and black wires, or just one of them, beacuse they both didnt read 12.5 volts...
 
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